20W-50??

I am sure I am not the only one who has the rattle from the top end. At idle I notice a tapping noise, it is just lifter noise, nothing major. I change the oil as described in the manual, using the correct oil, yet the noise is still there.

The dealership I now take the car to suggested 20w-50 oil! Does this sound strange to anyone, or should I give it a try. I was thinking 20W-50 fully synthetic to reduce crank drag and friction elsewhere in the engine. Thoughts......

Depending on the temperature where you live 20w-50 will work on your engine. The valve tap, if not to loud is not a problem. If you are thinking about using synthetic, if the engine was not broken in using synthetic then I would stick to conventional oil.

Nauticus,
My opinion, 20w-50 is way too heavy unless you live a warm enviorment. I went from conventional oil to a synthetic blend and I am now running full synthetic sticking with 5w-20. However, I too also have a slight tap at startup. Not a big deal as per the dealer. Remember I took home the car on September 1, 2005. As of today, I have over 5400 miles on her.
Good Luck,
Brant

I have 35K on the car.... didn't start with synthetic. I think I might just run 10-40 in it. I live in South Carolina, so not real cold but it does get down there in the temps.

Personally I am a big fan of 5w-30. It is a good all around oil that can stand up to most temperatures, at least in PA, and has never given me any trouble. Don't worry about the tap, and as for oil, as you can see by the posts here, it is a personal preference.

Poacher: Where are you getting your information regarding: “If you are thinking about using synthetic, if the engine was not broken in using synthetic then I would stick to conventional oil.”

Why is that? From the volumes of information I have read on the subject, it typically doesn’t matter at when one switches to synthetic, whether it be at the first oil change or "anytime" thereafter (assuming it wasn’t a factory fill). You can even mix the two if you like (but doing so will simply reduce the benefits of the synthetic oil). I have yet to see anything in writing, from a reliable independent source, which suggests one should not switch to synthetic oil just because the car was broken in with dino oil. That’s a myth I do believe!

MrBill,
Your right that is myth. My first oil change was a synthetic blend. My second oil change was fully synthetic in 5w-20.
Brant

Alright so I forgot that I suck, I'm sorry. Actually a buddy of mine bought a chevy colorado, it had 65,000 miles on it and he switched to synthetic and it leaked out of the seals. When he took it to the garage the techs said that the engine needed broken in on synthetic and the seals weren't ready for it. I got spooked and assumed that it was dangerous for all vehicles. I guess I assumed, and made an ass of myself.

Poach,
Don't be so hard on yourself. LOL Hell, back in the day I use to use 0w sythentic in my GEO Metro with no problems at all.
Brant

I saw a guy at the race track who was pushing something like 220 hp out of the stock 3 cylinder! Don't know how though, and since he is a rival free-lance fabricator, he wouldn't show me.

Poacher…Well for cryin out loud…jeeshhh, it ain’t that big of a deal.
Regarding your buddy’s Chevy…I believe one can switch to synthetic at anytime with any mechanically sound car, truck, motorcycle, lawn mower, etc..... I really doubt that that switch to syn “caused” the seal problem. I figure the synthetic oil just made an existing problem more apparent. The mechanics claim “the engine needed to be broken in with synthetic” is BS! I would find another mechanic!!

I am glad that I have been fully educated and from now on will use only synthetic, I thank everyone for pulling the wool off my eyes.

Poacher,
I live to give!! We're all here to help each other out. Just sharin' the info my friend, just sharin' the info. LMAO!!!!
Brant