Asking about motor oil change?

Hi.
I just got a 07' Azera 3.8. This is the first time to change enigne oil. I would like to change by myself. But I couldn't find an owner's manual. My kids thrown it out I think.
 
So, how much oil do I put in for 3.8 engine?
     What kinds of oil and filter are the best?
     Which tools do I need?
     Does the job need any sepecial difficulties?
 
I used to change motor oil  by myshelf to other cars like dakota, Monte, Taurrus, and Nissian.
But the korean car is the first time. Would you let me know what I need? 
 
Thanks.

How many miles on your car?

I waited to long at 3,500 miles.
Had the old oil analysized and it was really filthy, so should have changed it earlier.

For the oil, I like Mobil 1. Five quarts or slightly more. 

Be sure and use 5W-20 no matter which oil you prefer.

Mobil 1 at Walmart in a five quart jug is about $22. Buy also a one quart container.

Oil filter is either a Fram 9999 or better yet, a Purolator or less
expensive Proline PPL-35610 (Pep Boys) cartridge filter, $6.
Both the Proline and the Purolator are exactly identical and made in India. 

Trick is to get the screw-on filter cap tight enough so it will not leak.
Seeps ever so slightly and may not do that for some time.  

Plastic top says tighten to 26 nm which is 18 ft/lb.  Be sure to use both new "O" rings.

I have a new specialty tool on the way to tighten up
the plastic top without scratching or damaging it.

Let us know how everything turns out.

Good luck.

I haven't seen thoes kinds of oil filter. I will try on this weekend.

Thanks a lot.

I have seen the Fram CH999 oil filter in stores, but I got on Hyundai's tech site, and there is a TSB about using aftermarket filters, and how they may cause uneven oil pressure in the engine. I am used to using aftermarket filters, but I thik this time I may stay with the Hyundai filter, just in case.

Have you examined any cartridge oil filters?

If you believe that B/S that is being put out on their site, I've
got some ocean-front property in Arizona I'd like to sell you cheap.
 
That TSB applies to all models, but not necessarily Azeras with the cartridge type filters. 
It's dated prior to the introduction of the cartridge type filter on the Lambda engines.

There's no way that any oil filter cartridge can cause "uneven oil pressure in the engine."

TSB's are for maintenance and management personel, which reflect problems that occur with their cars in the field. This info is also avaiable to consumers. Considering TSB's as  nothing but B.S. must mean that you have more info and insight on these problems that the car companies.  Car makers don't want any TSB's, but no one can make a perfect car. I think I will pass on the Arizona land

Speaking of oil changes, does anyone know the reason for the "crush washer" that is to be replaced at every oil change? In the past, I have simply inserted a nylon washer which has always worked great.

if you want to change the oil yourself just go to the dealer and buy yourself and oil filter. TSBs are there for a reason, aftermarker oil filter does cause some hyundai engines make lifter noise.

OK, I just changed the oil and filter in my Azera. It had 4200 miles on it. The oil wasn't all that dirty, but I couldn't wait to get rid of the 5W-20 and get some 10W-30 into it. It runs just slightly quieter with the slightly thicker oil. I'm going to be doing 5K oil changes on the 5's and 10's. The oil I just put in is actually going to go for about 5.8K. I also installed a 1/4 turn drain valve in place of the drain plug to make all future oil changes a snap.
 
Here's some helpful info for anyone else who wants to change their own.
 
1. The oil filter housing is accessed from the top of the engine by removing the decorative cover which is held on by 6 bolts/nuts. Facing the engine, the filter housing cover is a domed round plastic cap about 4" in diameter slightly to the right of center.
 
2. Note carefully that there's a white painted "match" mark somewhere on the more exposed side of the filter housing. When you twist the cap back on, you'll want to make sure you turn it far enough to get those marks to line up again. If your car doesn't have such an alignment mark, make one yourself.
 
3. There is apparently a special tool for removing the filter cap sold by Hyundai, but I was able to easily twist mine off by hand. Before starting to remove the cap, wrap rags around the housing below the cap to catch any oil that might drip during cartridge lift-out. Also, have a container of some sort handy into which you can lift the cartridge without trailing it across the top of the engine. It is easy to avoid dripping any oil anywhere.
 
4. Change the filter BEFORE draining the oil out of the pan to enable the oil trapped in the housing to drain into the pan before the pan is emptied.
 
5. The cap takes several turns to get it off. When you lift it off, the filter will come with it since the filter is mounted on a hollow spindle that's attached to the cap and extends out of the bottom end of the filter a few inches. Once out of the housing, the old filter pulls straight off the spindle.
 
6. There are four o-rings to concern yourself with. They come with the replacement filter. Two are already installed inside the ends of the filter, there's one about 1/2" in diameter that can be found on the end of the spindle, and a large one the diameter of the cap seals the cap to the housing. The small one on the end of the spindle is sorta hard to get off and replace. Squeeze the o-ring, press it one direction, and get a nail under the loose part to help pry it off. Before putting on the new one, oil it to help it slip over the end of the spindle and back into its groove. The larger one is much easier to replace. Oil it too.
 
7. Before placing the new cartridge onto the spindle, oil the two o-rings inside the ends of the filter. This will help them slip into place. Push it on as far is it will go.
 
8. I've read how several people have had problems getting the cap cinched back down properly. That's because they fail to bathe the large o-ring with oil AND the inner surface of the housing where the o-ring will be required to twist/slide into place as the cap is screwed down. Trying to put the cap on with the o-ring and housing inner surface dry will be almost impossible, will probably damage the o-ring, and will most likely leak. Twist the cap/filter assembly down till it bottoms out on the housing, and the white marks are aligned.
 
8. Once that's done, drain your oil and refill as you would any other car. It holds 6 quarts. Don't forget to remove the rag from around the filter housing before replacing the decorative engine cover.
 
Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

I assume you are asking about the washer used to seal the oil pan drain plug.  The nylon washers you are using are nothing but a newer, cheaper alternative to the old copper crush washers.  Both are intended for a single use.  The plastic washers are probably more tolerant of over torqueing than the copper type.  The copper washers can take more heat, but that's not an issue with drain plug applications.  I prefer the newer blue nylon washers with raised concentric ribs.  You can also buy a reuseable washer that has a rubber ring incorporated into it.  I have found these last for 2, maybe 3 uses.  For the same money you can buy a gob of nylon washers.  If the nylon washers are working for you, stick to them.

Go to http://www.hmaservice.com. You'll have to register (free).
There is a lot of information on this site. It is a Hyundai website.

OIL AND FILTER


• Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural fats from the skin, leading to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants which may cause skin cancer.
• Exercise caution in order to minimize the length and frequency of contact of your skin to used oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water, or use water-less hand cleaner, to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners, or solvents.
• In order to preserve the environment, used oil and used oil filter must be disposed of only at designated disposal sites.

1. Park the car on level ground.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
2. Turn the engine off and open the hood.
Remove the engine cover.
3. Wait for 5 minutes after loosening the oil filter cap by turning it counterclockwise with SST(09263-3C100) to drain well the oil in the oil filter.


4. Drain the engine oil.
A. Remove the oil filler cap.
B. After lifting the car, remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a container.

5. Replace oil filter.
A. Disconnect the oil filter cap from oil filter body.
B. Remove the oil filter element.
C. Check and clean the oil filter installation surface.
D. Check the part number of the new oil filter is same as old one.
E. Install new oil filter element(A) and two new O-rings(B).


F. Apply clean engine oil to the new O-rings.
Lightly screw the oil filter cap into place, and tighten it until the O-ring contacts the seat.
G. Finally tighten it again by specified tightening torque.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tightening torque
24.50Nm (2.5kgf.m, 18.08lb-ft)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


6. Refill with engine oil.
A. Install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tightening torque
34.3 ~ 44.1Nm (3.5 ~ 4.5kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5lb-ft)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


B. Fill with fresh engine oil, after removing the engine oil level gauge.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capacity
When replacing a short engine or a block assembly :
6.0L(6.34U.S.qts,5.28lmp.qts)
When replacing an oil pan only :
5.5L(5.81U.S.qts,4.84lmp.qts)
Drain and refill : 5.2L(5.49U.S.qts,4.58lmp.qts)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


C. Install the oil filler cap and oil level gauge.

7. Start the engine and check to be sure no oil is leaking from the drain plug or oil filter.
8. Recheck engine oil level.

A couple of comments:
 
Regarding the oil filter TSB, that covered problems with oil filters on Hyundais that do *not* use the cartridge-style filter.  Without looking it up again, I don't think it applies to Hyundais with cartridge filters.  The basic problem, I think, is that the filters for Hyundai and Honda cars had the same mounting base, but the Honda bypass valve pressure is 14-18 psi, while the Hyundai bypass pressure is 12-15.  The result is that Hyundais could get into an oil starvation situation if the Honda filter was used.  This could happen one of two ways:  1) a lube technician doesn't hae the right filter in stock for a Hyundai and uses the one for a Honda, or 2) the oil filter company makes a mistake and builds their filters with the Honda specs and recommends it for Hyundai applications.  From what I've read on the internet, I think Fram may have done this; among Elantra owners Fram is avoided at all costs.  Wix, Purolator, and of course OEM are the preferred filters on the Elantra forums.
 
The whole reason the TSB was issued is that several cars developed knocking engines when using aftermarket filters.  It isn't B.S.; it really happened.  That's why Hyundai went through the expense of putting out a TSB.
 
 
As far as using a Fram element on a cartridge-style filter, I don't know anything about that, but considering the bypass valve was the problem, and with a cartridge filter the bypass valve is not changed out, just the element is, I don't see why using a Fram filter would be a problem.  Just make sure you use a filter that is designed for Hyundai.
 
 
The reason it is recommended to replace the crush washer each time the oil is changed is, well, the washer is crushed when it is intalled!  Get a new washer, and compare it with the washer on your car when you change the oil.  The difference is obvious; the used one is much thinner and has a larger diameter.  The whole point of the washer is to make sure there is a good seal and that the drain plug doesn't back out.  Why take a chance by not replacing a part that costs just a few cents?  (My Hyundai dealer charges $6 for an OEM filter and throws in the crush washer for free.)

quote:

ORIGINAL: Doohickie

The whole reason the TSB was issued is that several cars developed knocking
engines when using aftermarket filters.  It isn't B.S.; it really happened. 
That's why Hyundai went through the expense of putting out a TSB.

As far as using a Fram element on a cartridge-style filter, I don't know anything about that, but considering the bypass valve was the problem, and with a cartridge filter the bypass valve is
not changed out, just the element is, I don't see why using a Fram filter would
be a problem.  Just make sure you use a filter that is designed for Hyundai.

 

 
Regarding the B/S comment, I meant that it was when applied to the late Sonatas and Azeras.
These models should not have been included, and Hyundais TSB
only applies to models that still use the spin-on type filters. 
 
The next time you change your cartridge-style filter, look closely at that center piece that
you're installing the smaller of the two "O" rings on and notice the center "check valve."
That part is what controls the drain back and pressures within the canister.
It matters not about who makes the cartridge. I would think that whether the filter is for an
Azera or a Honda, just so long as it fit the spindle properly and within the cartridge housing.
 
In others words, those who maintain that the cartridge itself controls the pressures
and the drainback are smoken some bad grass. That is just not so McGee!