Engine noise - Page 2

Thanks for the update and please keep us notified of any changes. I have noticed my 'noise' has become more erratic, sometimes it's there and other times it's not. If it's ticking when I am near the Dealer I am going to have Sales listen to it to get confirmation for the Service Department.
 
Roger

Hello Everyone!

My wife has a 2006 Ultimate (Limited) Azera with 16k on the clock...

I have heard this noise for 3 weeks or so figuring it was a loose piece of metal or one with the rubber damper is worn...
  The noise has been noticeable after EVERY single oil change. And still nothing has changed... Ours is a CLICK-CLICK-CLICK ----pause---- CLICK-CLICK----pause--- CLICK CLICK CLICK....
I have no faith in my dealership I bought my wifes car from. They didn't even finish the rear window shade repair... They left it halfass and I showed them after inspecting it in the service pick up area... So yes I am worried if this is a problem with the internals of our car... THEY won't touch it...

Please keep me & everyone posted on SYNTHETIC oil or Dealer repairs / Fixes...???

Thanks,

About 3 weeks ago we began hearing a new noise, something like a sewing machine. The pitch of the noise changed with the rpm's of the engine including when it shifted gears. I took it in to Hyundai and they determined it was the bearings in the 'belt tensioner', and they ordered a new one.
 
The ordered part came in and I left the car with them yesterday with the understanding they would also look at the 'ticking' noise reported to them 15,000 miles ago and looked at already 4 times in the past. Well, they installed the new part and that noise is gone. Then yhey called Hyundai Tech Service about the ticking noise and ended up dropping the pan and checking the oil pump along with everything else they could look at. They feel the noise is coming from the lower portion of the engine and feel this was confirmed using a stethoscope.
 
The end result, along with agreement by Hyundai Tech Service, was to put the car back together and leave the service ticket open until the next oil change. At that time they will drop the pan again and carefully examine the oil and pan for any suspicious residue.
 
Draw your own conclusions, I remain dumbfounded.
 
Roger

tapping noise is most likely too great clearance between cam and valve tappet. It will be very expensive if allowed to continue so have dealer check valve clearance; usually the offending valve can be located by sound using medical type monitors.
Using good synthetic oil is also good advice and such oil tends to better lubricate the wiping action of the cam on the tappet than conventional oils even though both use similar additives.
The valve tappet in the 3.8 is really an upside down bucket of variable thicknesses ans is called an MLA. The thickness of the bucket determines the valve clearance by the separation of the top of the bucket and the cam base circle.
If the tappling noise goes away during warmup the clearance is likely just at the upper end of the spec. If not, the clearance needs adjustment. If memory serves the clearance is about .004 to .012 intake and .008 to .016" exhaust" but don't hold me to that. Dealers will have the specs.

They ruled the valve train out as the source in the begining and since I bought my Azera new the cost will be borne by Hyundai under the warranty. Also, I usually will trade it in around 50,000-60,000 miles.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Rogerf

About 3 weeks ago we began hearing a new noise, something like a sewing machine. The pitch of the noise changed with the rpm's of the engine including when it shifted gears. I took it in to Hyundai and they determined it was the bearings in the 'belt tensioner', and they ordered a new one.

The ordered part came in and I left the car with them yesterday with the understanding they would also look at the 'ticking' noise reported to them 15,000 miles ago and looked at already 4 times in the past. Well, they installed the new part and that noise is gone. Then yhey called Hyundai Tech Service about the ticking noise and ended up dropping the pan and checking the oil pump along with everything else they could look at. They feel the noise is coming from the lower portion of the engine and feel this was confirmed using a stethoscope.

Roger

Hey Roger-

You issue with the "sewing machine" sound... What does this exactly sound like? I actually uploaded an audio clip for you to listen to my wifes car. Sounds to me a bearing is going bad not sure....
**Don't mind the gate shutting sound in the background. *** this has been bugging us since 12k  miles and now we are at 22k
http://www.supload.com/sound_confirm.php?get=90729223.wma

Hello All-

Took the car to the dealer, Humming / Squeeling noise all gone... They replaced the idler pully the bearing went bad.

Just a FYI

 Glad your is fixed, looks like we both had the same problem. Thank God for warranties.
 
Rogerf

I'm glad to hear the engine noise I hear others have the same problem.  My dealer is trying to tell me its because I use Mobil 1 oil and should have the oil changed more frequently. 
 
Now that the cold weather is here the problem is much more pronouced.  Once the car warms up the tick goes away.  I am having the dealer change the oil to the "Hyundai approved" 5W-20 and the tick better go away or they will pay for the oil change.

My dealer told me that Mobil 1 is not recommended and they have used their 5W-20W on every oil change so far. I still have the 'ticking' noise just like I did 20,000 miles ago. This last oil change they examined the oil and residue and could not find any problems but the ticking is still there.
 
Rogerf

The tapping is almost surely coming from a swiping tappet caused by too thick oil that doesn't lubricate that valvecam. The rest is a likely valve clearance a little on the wide side. If the noise goes away as the engine warms thats probably it and yes probably not serious. However, if it doesn't, you need to have the dealer find the miscreant valve and readjust it. It ain't easy so be prepared to leave it a day or two.The Azera doesn't have automatic adjusting hydraulic valve lifters as good old American cars;they are more like Honda 4 cylinder engines. Valve clearance is fixed by valve racks shimmed much the same as Fiats tho instead of screw locks. There is a good reason Hyundai recommends a good 20wt synthetic oil. It flows better into tight clearances and is much harder to wipe from between friction surfaces. Note your service requirements include checking valve clearances at least audibly.
Oil gets thinner with increasing mileage, aka viscosity with engine operating hours is decreasing, and while it flows well it becomes easy to wipe away between friction sutrfaces.. Synthetic oil is probably the best solution as it better lubricates the cam surfaces. And doesn't lose viscosity as much as conventional oils. The really nice thing about synthetics is it has much greater film strength than mineral oils and thus lubricates the valve cam to disc surfaces better. 6000 miles between oil changes with synthetic oils appears to be very good. Yeah, I know mobil 1 oil changes are $20 a change plus filter. Its a lot like helmets (whats your head worth?) Whats your engine worth?

The clunking noise could be the shocks and it the topic of a TSB from Hyundai to R&R. The first forum, the 'unofficial' one has the TSB posted. It is a no charge warranty repair.