Engine Oil And Filter Suggestions For A 2000 Elantra
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Engine Oil And Filter Suggestions For A 2000 Elantra
ShortBuSX
10/21/2005 3:16:06 PM
Im going to be doing an oil change for my girlfriend this weekend...but I gotta say the owners manula is anything but specific about much of anything...it suggests so many different grades of oil that I dont know what I should be using in this thing. Realize this is Florida and the heat, although it will be getting cooler soon. Today I had to add some oil for her, and was a little surprised at the burnt oil on the dipstick and appearant sludge under the filler cap and what I could see under the cover.
So Im thinking of doing a brief 3000 mile oil change interval, but would be interested in anybodies recommendations for this neglected sludger to clean it up and keep it running smoothly for many years to come.
Also recoomentaion or part numbers for oil filters would be appreciated too, although I currently prefer PureOne oil filters.
poacher
10/22/2005 7:59:53 PM
A good oil to use would be grade 5W-30 it is a good all season grade oil and is really good in the heat. One reminder if your car has over 50k miles and hasn't been run on synthetic don't use it because an engine that has not been broken in on synthetic oil tends to leak out of the seals.
Trakka
10/23/2005 9:09:17 AM
Hi from Or-strail-ya,
What does your dealer recommend? I would have thought something in the 15w -50 range given your climate. I use Shell Helix here in Sydney which is warm/hot humid is summer and dry and cool/cold in winter. It does get hotter and colder in different parts of the country and that grade of oil is still good to go.
To get rid of the "burnt offerings", simply replace the oil more often than usual 'til all the gunk is vanquished.
Does the vehicle do a lot of short trips?
What tends to happen is that the oil gets broken down into components, if so, some of them acidic. (These acids tend to get evaporated if the vehicle goes on a longer, hotter run and that's why the oil seems to vanish for no reason after a decent trip, also thickening the mix a bit.)
Can't comment on filters as we have a local manufacturer, Ryco, who makes a very good range for a lot of vehicles here in God's country and has a bit of a stranglehold. Otherwise, OEM.
Change the oil regularly at 3000miles if the trips are short.
My 97 1.8 litre has 106,000+miles and goes very well given regular (3000 mile) changes. I do a lot of city miles, with occasional bursts of country.
Change the plugs for NGK Platinums and replace the air and fuel filters every so often.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Andrew
poacher
10/23/2005 6:00:14 PM
5w-50 is an odd grade. Though effective I would still suggest the use of 5w-30. You don't need anything fancy, I use Pennzoil and it has done the trick for me for years. It is a well balanced oil and does the job in any temp. A standard oil filter, Fram in particular, works well. I travel alot, city trips, heavy traffic, and highway, I have never had a problem. It's your decision, but tyat's my spin on things.
Trakka
10/23/2005 8:32:29 PM
Hi poacher,
It's actually "15w-50" and not so odd here in 'Strailya. If the vehicle in question has been neglected, then it is possible that the grade you suggest may be too thin for the engine, on startup at least, given possible wear. The engines don't actually run that hot or have ridiculously small galleries like, for example, an SR20.
Sufficient testimonial evidence exists for recommending Fram as being OK.
Cheers,
Andrew
poacher
10/24/2005 2:57:25 AM
Sorry my Aussie bud, I didn't notice the 1. To be honest with you I have never dealt with that particular grade number before. I was just recommending what I know of the state side grades of oil. I was going off of the assumption you meant 5w-50 which is a terribly thick oil here, my mistake. Hell, for all we know we could be talking about the same grade of oil just said differently. So ShortbusX, go for whatever grade you want whether it be 5w-30 or 15w-50, I know what I'm talking about and believe that Trakka does to, so you have two good sources have fun.
Oh and Trakka, I know you Aussies work with the Accent alot down there. I have the engine of my 95 3-door all finished and am working toward the body now, if you could give me some sites or dealers of body kits for my year Accent I would appreciate it greatly.
Thanks,
Poacher
Trakka
10/24/2005 3:54:10 AM
Hi poacher,
Been busy posting I see!
Anyway check out
www.performancestylingcentre.com.au and look for the X3 Excel (which is what the Accent was called) under bodykits.
You might want to also google "Talon" bodykits and/or Sydney Special Vehicles or SSV.
Yes we went quite nuts, particularly for the "jellybean", here and the range for Hyundais is reasonably good.
Hopefully you find something useful. We have Evo style, Veilside and all manner of permutations in between.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Andrew
poacher
10/24/2005 4:14:12 AM
Thanks Trakka.
I love to post, if I can help somebody from shooting their car out of frustration then I've done my job.
poacher
10/24/2005 4:16:39 AM
I just checked that site you gave me and might I say that I love you. You have no idea how underappriciated those cars are over here
ShortBuSX
10/27/2005 10:51:55 AM
Well I went with Castrol GTS anti sludge formula 5w30 and a Walmart SuperTech oil filter.
The old oil was a very dark brown/black and very thich upon draining, let the car run till it warmed up to get as much of it out as possible. The filter that was replaced was not the same size as the one I purchased, very over sized and generic...at first I was concerned I had the wrong filter, but then realized my girl had gotten her oil changed by a local gas station and he probably just threw on any filter that would fit and poured any oil he had laying around.
With so much visable sludge, I considered running a flush, but figured if anything happened to this car itd be all my fault and just decided to go with a thinner oil in hopes of breaking down this sludge and plan to do another oil change within 3000 miles.
I really have/had no fear of running a synthetic in this, Mobil 1 is a very clean oil and knew it would help clean it up...matter of fact, the car was run low on oil and she asked me to top it off just about a week before doing the change and I poured a couple quarts of M1 5w30 to top it off...with no ill effects.
Thanks everybody for your help.
poacher
10/27/2005 2:58:28 PM
Glad it worked out for you.
ShortBuSX
10/27/2005 3:00:37 PM
In my opinion, it hasnt "worked" until the sludge is gone...damn women drivers!
poacher
10/27/2005 7:40:33 PM
HaHa, I hear ya. You should be in good shape though, that synthetic should clean that block up pretty well. For next time might I suggest you use the fram filter that is available. The Super-Tech works but I really don't like it and don't trust them.
ShortBuSX
10/28/2005 9:33:20 AM
quote:
ORIGINAL: poacher
For next time might I suggest you use the fram filter that is available. The Super-Tech works but I really don't like it and don't trust them.
Thats funny you should say that, your the
only person Ive
ever heard suggest a Fram...maybe they are different for the Elantra. But the SuperTech is actually a good filter for the price(2 bucks)...it uses a spring for the bypass valve not unlike the Mobile 1 filter. The SuperTech actually gets great reviews and Ive seen cut open filters and they are very compariable to other high quality filters.
poacher
10/29/2005 12:12:32 AM
Super-Tech gave me a bad experience that Fram doesn't. I used to use the Tech all the time, after I came back from boot-camp and started my car I had a dry start. It doesn't last long but isn't good and makes you want to scream when you hear it. Fram has a system that prevents you from having dry starts all together. In regards to the original statement, Super-Tech isn't all that bad, your car will not spontaneously combust if you use one I just have another preference I guess.
ShortBuSX
10/31/2005 12:32:43 PM
quote:
ORIGINAL: poacher
after I came back from boot-camp and started my car I had a dry start.
I would almost expect something like that after leaving the car sit for 4 months or more with no matter what filter you used.
poacher
11/1/2005 7:58:49 PM
No it wasn't that long. My dad was firing it up for mwe while i was away. When I got home it hadn't been started for a week.
ShortBuSX
11/2/2005 2:11:27 PM
So then it dry started everytime he cranked it for you??? Come on man...something doesnt make sense.
poacher
11/3/2005 10:56:46 AM
No seriously I am not Bullshitting you. It happened after a week or so of not starting it up, my dad was firing it up every couple of days but was to busy to do so that week when I returned. That is when the dry start happened and it was my father that told me about the filter being the cause, it made sense to me.
Patrick
11/3/2005 3:41:35 PM
i always recommend syntech, and as for filters, i dont buy into the "some oil filters are better".
poacher
11/4/2005 10:25:49 AM
Oh well this topic is completely dead. We each have our preferences, so lets leave it at that and agree to disagree.
Chad@junblusa.com
12/8/2005 4:36:13 PM
You should check Amsoil.com . I think there one of the best companys out there..
mnstrmech
12/9/2005 8:21:33 PM
theres no debate, Mobil oil and filters are the best over teh counter, easy to get products, period. end of decussion. for serious, hard racing, id suggest royal purple, but you usually have to get that at a race shop. walmart has the best price on oil. 5quart container for usually 23 bucks here in indiana for pure synthetic mobil one, then off to autozone for the mobil 1 filter, 11 bucks. its like treating your car to pure goodness.
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