[ View Full Version Of This Page ]

Hesitation

All Forums » Hyundai Accent » Hesitation

jr_knowles
4/6/2008 12:01:09 PM
Hi all. two months ago my car had problems starting and stalled on the road during a snowstorm. They finally found the problem which they said was a relay(?). I don't know what that is but it seemed to at least get the car running. However the engine light remained on, and being fearful of more expenses, I just asked them if it was safe to drive, they said yes and what the code was. It was code 121, throttle position sensor. I noticed the hesitation, low gas mileage, rpm problems at idle, and went home and checked on the computer, and sure enough the symptoms matched the code. After driving my car for a few days to test it, I looked in to getting the part, and a friend got one used. This fixed the problem about 75%, so I was tempted to just go with it, since the only remaining symptom was occasional hesitation. Specifically, I can't slowly accelerate, which I had trouble doing anyway because the gas pedal always has seemed stiff to me. you try to put your foot down and either the pedal doesn't move at all, or goes down too much(for my liking,I would prefer the pedal to go down more smoothly, but I don't know if a stiff pedal could have caused this problem, maybe a censor works better with a softer pedal).Anyway if my car does hesitate(only after a stop), I just lessen the pressure on the gas, and the car speeds up. once I am up to 10 mph, everything is normal. If I don't put enough pressure from a stop, there is no room to back off if it hesitates, and if someone is behind me, I have no choice but to gas it, and then it goes. Finally I called the hyundai dealership and asked them if anything else could be causing this problem, and they said an air flow meter. I asked if that would cause the same code, they said no. So I took the chance that the used tps was no good and bought another one-new. I then went to change my oil, where they do free code readings and again, code 121, which was fine, I new the code would still be there and was happy their were no other codes. I would say the car is better than with the used tps, but the damn light came back on and their is still some hesitation. Does it take awile for the new tps to work? Is their anything special about installing it? It seems like just 2 screws and a clip, which is all I did. How specific does the positioning of the sensor have to be?Does a crappy tps make my throttle body clog up and this needs to be clean? Is their anything else that could cause this(change spark plugs)? The one think that hit me just today is maybe the tps, being electrical is being set off by the relay replacment which is also electrical, or maybe they didn't replace that relay thing properly, or it was a defective part(I am just guessing, maybe this is stupid). The other thing electrical I noticed is my left headlight doesn't work sometimes when it is cold, so I honk the horn, and it immediately goes on. Seems like an elctrical problem.
ken99
4/6/2008 12:25:44 PM
quote:

After driving my car for a few days to test it, I looked in to getting the part, and a friend got one used. This fixed the problem about 75%, so I was tempted to just go with it, since the only remaining symptom was occasional hesitation. Specifically, I can't slowly accelerate, which I had trouble doing anyway because the gas pedal always has seemed stiff to me. you try to put your foot down and either the pedal doesn't move at all, or goes down too much(for my liking,I would prefer the pedal to go down more smoothly, but I don't know if a stiff pedal could have caused this problem, maybe a censor works better with a softer pedal).Anyway if my car does hesitate(only after a stop), I just lessen the pressure on the gas, and the car speeds up. once I am up to 10 mph, everything is normal. If I don't put enough pressure from a stop, there is no room to back off if it hesitates, and if someone is behind me, I have no choice but to gas it, and then it goes.


Did you simply remove the original TPS and replace with the used one?  There is a procedure you must follow when installing a TPS to make sure the voltage being passed from the sensor to the Engine Control Module is within correct limits at both closed and open throttle settings.  This process also tells you if the TPS is operating as designed.  If you just installed the part without further adjustment, I can see why you continue to get TPS error codes.  I wouldn't mess with the MASS aiflow sensor until you know the TPS is working correctly and within tolerances.  I'm guessing you won't have to once the TPS situation is corrected.

quote:

The other thing electrical I noticed is my left headlight doesn't work sometimes when it is cold, so I honk the horn, and it immediately goes on. Seems like an elctrical problem.


This is an odd one to solve.  Involving only one headlight strongly suggests a bad ground wire connection (likely the one at the affected headlight bucket), but the horn business is a twist I've never experienced.
jr_knowles
4/6/2008 1:48:43 PM
To be honest, my friend did the change from old to used. I wanted to be their, but he said I didn't need to be so I didn't want to nag, so I don't know what he did. I actually wanted to be their because the guy selling me the used part sold it for 70$ and it included the throttle body. He said if I seperated the censor from the new body and only put the sensor on, and it didn't work, it would void the warrenty, but my friend didn't listen, and took it off anyway.  He has experience as a mechanic, but I can't be sure if he knew the proper process. When I did the second change, from the used to the new I did it myself. That time I know I didn't do anything special, just screwed it on.
jr_knowles
4/6/2008 1:56:09 PM
When I had the relay problem, did this reset something on the original tps. Is it possible the original one was never a problem.
ken99
4/6/2008 2:04:14 PM
What year is your Accent and which engine?
jr_knowles
4/6/2008 2:31:50 PM
Its an 02, 1.5
ken99
4/6/2008 2:42:18 PM
Here is a thread on this forum where TPS adjust was discussed:

http://www.hyundaiforum.com/m_12563/tm.htm

Below is the TPS trouble shooting section from the Hyundai Service site for your car.  You need to use a multimeter to measure voltage and resistance of the TPS.  Fundementally, your computer is receiving the wrong information regarding the throttle position and cannot provide the correct fuel/air mixture to the engine.


  2002 > G 1.5 SOHC > Fuel System

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)

The TP Sensor is a rotating type variable resistor that rotates with the throttle body's throttle shaft to sense the throttle valve angle. As the throttle shaft rotates, the throttle angle of the TP Sensor changes and the ECM detects the throttle valve opening based on the TPS output voltage.




CIRCUIT DIAGRAM



TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS


1.The TPS signal is important for the control of the automatic transaxle. Shift shock and other trouble may occur if the sensor is faulty.


2.If the idle condition or acceleration is abnormal, check the TPS connector. (When the TPS connector is not connected properly, the current data on HI-SCAN can show that the idle state remains off, although the accelerater pedal is released. This results in the improper idle or acceleration.)

3.Input voltage from throttle position sensor is below 0.1V or above 4.7V when ignition switch is turned on.

USING VOLTMETER

Check item

Check condition

Test specification

Throttle position sensor output voltage

(TP Sensor side connector No.1 or ECM harness side connector No.16)
At idle rpm0.25 ~ 0.8V
Wide open throttle4.0 ~ 4.8V

HARNESS INSPECTION PROCEDURES



SENSOR INSPECTION

1.Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector.
2.Measure the resistance between terminals 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 3 (sensor power).


0.7 ~ 3.0 kΩ

3.Connect an analog ohmmeter between terminals 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 1 (sensor output).

4.Operate the throttle valve slowly from the idle position to the full open position, and check that the resistance changes smoothly in proportion with the throttle valve opening angle.

5.If the resistance is out of specification, or fails to change smoothly, replace the throttle position sensor.


Tightening torqueThrottle position sensor :1.5 ~ 2.5 Nm (15 ~ 25 kg·cm, 1.1 ~ 1.8 lb·ft)

jr_knowles
4/6/2008 3:18:58 PM
Thanks Ken. It sounds like my friend would have needed a manual for my car to do this properly, in order to know what ranges to look for, which probably means he just slapped it on like I did with the new one.
ken99
4/6/2008 3:34:33 PM
The basic things you need to measure are:

1) Make sure the sensor is receiving adequate voltage from the harness (4.7 to 5.2 VDC).

2) Adjust the output of the sensor at full throttle to 4.0 to 4.8 VDC.

3) Once you adjust the open throttle voltage, check the closed throttle voltage to see if it is between 0.25 and 0.80 VDC.

4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until both settings are in tolerance.

At some point you will need to get the TPS error code in the computer reset.  The old error will remain resident until it is cleared.  Many parts stores will loan scanners to customers for this purpose.

Good luck.
jr_knowles
4/7/2008 9:21:34 AM
I brought it to a dealership to do the work and they said it was precalicrated.
All I have to do is just screw it on. I called another dealership and they said
the same thing, so now I am confused. I drove it home from the dealership,
and there was no hesitation so I don't know what they might have done to
fix it, if anything, but now they said(contrary to what I said in my first post)
 that a code 121 can be caused by a bad MAF.I was told it would be a
different code if it was the MAF.That's why I went ahead and bought the
 TPS since the symptoms match the code  They also said the sensor wasn't
 completely on properly(a tiny gap on the bottom screw) which was stripped.
 So I echanged the screws, because the top screw is easier to screw on,
and it looks like it is on perfect now. I will drive to work and see how it runs.
 
 
ken99
4/7/2008 5:34:44 PM
The following is from the service site:

2002 > G 1.5 SOHC > Fuel System
[ P0121/P0122/P0123 ]DTC


Diagnostic item


P0121TPS Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0122TPS Circuit Low Input

P0123TPS Circuit High Input

DESCRIPTION

The Throttle Position sensor mounts on the side of the throttle body and is connected to the throttle valve shaft. The TPS is a variable resistor (potentiometer) whose resistance changes according to throttle valve shaft position. During acceleration, the TPS resistance decreases; during deceleration, the TPS resistance increases.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) applies a reference voltage to the TPS and then measures the voltage that is present on the TPS signal circuit. The ECM uses the TPS signal to adjust timing and injector pulse width. The TPS signal along with the MAF sensor signal is used by the ECM to calculate engine load.

FAILURE CONDITIONS

The ECM will set P0121 and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will turn on if the engine load indicated by the Throttle Position (TP) sensor and the MAP sensor are different. This code indicates that the throttle position and air flow readings by the TPS and MAP sensor, or ECM, do not result in the expected engine load value.

The ECM will set P0122 and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will turn on if the throttle angle is reported as less than 2.1 degrees for more than 0.2 seconds during 2-driving cycles. This code indicates an unusually low throttle position angle being read by the TP sensor or ECM.

The ECM will set P0123 and the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will turn on if the throttle angle is reported as greater than 105.4 degrees for 0.2 seconds during 2-driving cycles. This code indicates an unusually high throttle position angle being read by the TP sensor or ECM.

Code P0121 indicates the MASS airflow sensor and the TPS are not in agreement as to how much air is flowing into the engine as a result of a problem with the TPS.  If the MASS AFS was malfunctioning, it should give the P0106/107/108 series of error codes.  I suppose they are saying that since neither a P0122 or 123 code was found, that the TPS was operating correctly and the MASS AFS is at fault.  I guess time will tell now.
jr_knowles
4/8/2008 7:20:38 AM
Thanks for all you help.

When the last post mentions a code 121 comes on if the MAP and tps are different, and then at the bottom it says code 121 comes on when the MASS afs and tps are different, do they mean the same thing. Are the MAP and MASS af related? I am guessing that for their to be no engine light on, the MAP the MAFS and the TPS have to agree.If the tps is ok but the MASS is not then, does the MASS change the MAP until the MASS is fixed, or could their be something wrong with the MAP as well.

Is the MASS afs the connection located between the tps and the air filter?
If it is and I unplugged it, and that is the problem, would the problem go away, not that I would leave it like that, but it could be useful info.

The car definately did not run as well on my way home last night, maybe because it was cooler. It doesn't like when I slow down without the brake and then re-speed up without stopping, like cruising to a stop light, getting down to 10 mph and then reaccelerating without ever stopping.
ken99
4/8/2008 3:40:49 PM
MAP (although I think that's an aboration of MAF), MAF (Mass Air Flow), MASS sensor are refer to the Mass Airflow Sensor.  Yes, it's mounted on the intake between the air filter box and the throttle body on the manifold intake.  On some cars, it's mounted on the side of the filter box.  You cannot run the engine with this sensor unplugged.  That will generate another set of error codes, and the engine will run rough as well.  You might try cleaning the probe on the inside.  The aftermarket additive market has several vendors that make aerosol Mass Airflow Sensor cleaners.  You simply disconnect the sensor body (the tube) from the intake and spray away.  I've seldom heard of any good come from this procedure, particularly if you've maintain the air filters and changed them on a routine basis.  Cleaning the MAF seems to be required more often with K&N style filters that need to be washed and then treated with a light oil to work properly.  I guess folks apply too much of the oil spray to the filter and the excess contaminates the probe.  However, the MAF is probably the most expensive sensor to replace on the engine, so most folks try the cleaner first.  If you do this, be sure to have the sensor hooked back up before you start the engine.  I guess I'm puzzled as to why one of the MAF error codes hasn't surfaced if the problem is truly with this device.
jr_knowles
4/8/2008 9:25:46 PM
 
well, I went back to the place where I got my oil done and asked them if they would recheck my codes, which they did.121 came up, and I asked if there were any other codes, they said "no". I said "are you sure" and sure enough 172 System too rich bank 1. So I guess whatever is wrong is upsetting the O2 sensor, or the O2 sensor craped out. Is the tps upsetting the O2 because it is properly working but adjusting to something that isn't? Does this code help at all?
ken99
4/9/2008 5:36:47 AM
It means the oxygen sensors need to be replaced, but before I'd do that, I think I'd try to have someone else pull the error codes.  I have little faith in "quicky lube" outfits knowing how to properly change oil much less provide other services.
jr_knowles
4/9/2008 8:29:04 AM
I was watching the screen and saw the codes myself. I should have known they might have missed one the first time.
Related Threads
occasional hesitation
Hesitation from standstill only, warm or cold
Hesitation at 40 mph
01 SFe Clutch/trans Issue/hesitation
01 Santa fe Trans/Clutch/hesitation Issues!!
'06 Sonata hesitation.

[ View Full Version Of This Page ]

Return to the Hyundai Forum home page - Archive Home