Hello. Is there anyone have any ideas? I have a 99 Elantra that we bought new. I haven't had any major problems with it until recently. The other day it stalled on me on my way to work and wouldn't start back up. It would crank over fine but no fire. I waited for the tow truck for about 45 minutes. When he arrived, the first thing he wanted to do was try to start it. It started right up. I tried to drive it back to my house and almost made it until it stalled again. Again, I waited about 30 to 45 minutes, trying to start it every now and again. After a while it started again. Since then, I have been trying to troubleshoot in my driveway and it seems like it will stall after running 10 to 15 minutes and will not start again until it cools down.
Someone said it might be the MAF sensor but I replaced it and it still does it. I don't want to keep changing parts. Can anyone help with ideas?
Thanks.

 

Is the check engine light on? If so, you need to obtain a scanner (many parts store loan or rent them) to detemine what error codes are stored in the computer.

 

Yeah, it could be alot of different things and without a code from the computer, it's hard to say. Like Ken asked, is the check engine light on?

 

I have a similar prob with a 95/96 Excel that has been occuring over the past 2 years inconsistantly, with the car finally stalling in the same manner you describe just the other day. I initially thought it was fuel starvationeither a blockage or stuffed pump. Checked the pump anddid a bench test a checked the flow only to find all ok. Reinstalled and disconnected high pressurefuel hose tofuel rail and flow tested again into a jerrycan, still ok. I allready know that the injectors are good as the resistance is within tolerance and tested spray 6months ago. Next after dismissing the fuel theory Istarted to check the sensors as i am cheap and dont like buying parts that "others think" might be the cause. If in doubt buy the car manuels forhelp. So far I have checked the Maf sensor,Intake air temp sensor,Throttle position sensor, Idle speed control actuator,evap solenoid purge valveand ignition coil and the harness connecting to them. Each sensor has an ohms reading ( get a multimeter) and the harness has output voltages when engine on. So far each of the sensors are in tolerance or very close to it. The ignition coil tho is out of tolerance on one of the primary coils (could be part of the prob). After start up from cold about 15mins (during that time it sounds like it is idling rough) the thermo fan kicks in and the engine nearly has a heart attack and goes very close to stalling. As soon asthe fan stops the engine will then go back to a very rough idle. My next step is to check the alternator and regulatorbecause of the current drain described above when the fan kicks in ( checked fan and no short to earth). I havent put a scanner on it yet as i dont know wether it is OBDII or I compliant and dont think any codes will show as i took it to Ultra tune last time and had them check but no codes were present. Good luck 76er!

 

The Hyundai Service site (http://www.hmaservice.com/) indicates diagnostic codes are lost on the 1995 Accent (US version of the Excel) if the battery is disconnected. Indicative of a OBDC I system. 1996 version is a OBDC II system. I think some of the newer scanners are backward compatable.

 

We have 2002 Trajet 2.0l Diesel Automatic and currently have similar problem. Driving car one day and it stopped, immobilised, and would not start again. After waiting a while was able to start it and drive home.

Booked in with dealer (meanwhile problem became more and more frequent) who did 60,000 mile service, and scanned computer and told us the cam belt sensor was the problem, and that there was no engine problem.

Took it away while we waited for the part and had no problems at all after the service. However after taking it in for the sensor to be replaced the problem has returned.

The dealer has had it for two days since then and have no idea what the problem is.

The cam belt was replaced only a few months ago, so this was not done at the 60,000 service.

When the car stops randomly like this the engine light comes on. However it is only on sometimes when the engine is actually going.
So we've just paid nearly £500 for the service, and another £200 for the cam belt sensor (which obviously wasn't required) and the car is still unusable!

Any suggestions gratefully received!