Being able to fill click-free is a good sign. Assuming you changed the kinked hose or straightened it out, the filter you removed ... you can try blowing it out but it you have a lot of miles on it...not going to do anything for you. Having no charcoal falling out...is another good sign. What would be left would be the two solenoids-one behind the gas cap filler (driver rear side, wheel well cover has to come on to get to it), and the one on the engine). I think the gas filler solenoid has to be good else it would not be filling easily. The other solenoid may need to be changed if you get the error code back. Remember the charcoal canister may take 80 miles as you said to get the excess gas fumes out of it and into the engine manifold port through the engine solenoid's operation. Before I got good at diagnosing and fixing these things thanks to everyone's help on the board, I removed that air filter like you did but I left the hose disconnected over a weekend so the gas fume would evap out of the charcoal canister. That hastened the code going away in 15 miles being driven. Remember, air flow and functioning solenoids. Otherwise, pressure builds and fumes in the canister saturate. Fix the problem(s) and the canister still has to unsaturate a bit from the backup of gas fumes. So drive your car and let us know. My car has passed the emissions test without issue with the air canister removed.

 

when you say the code went away in 15 minutes do you mean the CEL on the dash or the code in the scanner?

i cleared the code so the dash CEL is out. it is the ECM internal code that says.....hey, an emission code was cleared so as to alert the emissions checkers. i believe there is a minimum mileaged before that goes away. i am driving with my scanner attached to the obd2 port to find out. i should hit about 80 miles today so will know for sure...

tom

 

Today at about 70 miles the code cleared on the scanner. The dash light had been out all 70 miles

Hope it stays that way

Thanks for all your help

Tom

 

Yes, on the dashboard the code goes out quickly ... at least for me..either right away or within 7 miles. I do not have a code reader to reset with.

 

The scanner will show how many miles since the last code clearing took place. Or at least my code reader does

Tom

 

O.k so just recently bought a 2000 Hyundai Accent the check engine light came on took it and had it tested they said it was the gas cap so I bought a new one.. and the light went off but then it came back on and took it again to have it tested they said it was the Fuel Vapor Leak Detection Pump... but the other day the car while driving the RPM's would completely go all the way down to 0 and I would have to pull over and the car would die.. after a few minutes I could crank it again and drive for a little while longer and it would do the same thing again.. I also have the problem with the slow fill where I can barely pump even 1/2 a gallon and it would cut off... Please any suggestions before paying 100.00 for the Leak detection pump? Any pictures of where everything is I need to check? I hope it is not the fuel pump.
Thanks.

 

You probably have 2 separate issues. The slow fill is caused by the tank not venting when you attempt to pump gas into the tank. Could be a kinked hose, or the carbon canister is letting carbon into the vent system clogging it. The problem of the engine dying, then it can be restarted later seems to be something over heating. It might be the fuel pump, it might also be something like the ignition module. I have seen both items fail on cars where they can be started later. A faulty connection to the car's computer, or a faulty (such as corrosion) ground to the computer, or the other 2 items I mentioned. Try looking at that. The charcoal cannister, and the leak detection pump is behind the left rear tire near the gasoline filler neck. The purge valve should be under the hood.

 

Add one more thing that can cause a problem filling the tank. Not much is mentioned about this item, but there is an air filter next to the charcoal canister. I tried blowing it out with the exhaust of a vacuum and a lot of dust came out, but it still didn't flow much air. Apparently, it is a dealer item. I could not find one online. I decided to look into it, with a reciprocating saw. I cut it open, and it has paper filters in it. The smallest one is the first one the air hits, so it clogs easily. I replaced it with some dacron fibre fill. I know that it stands up to dry cleaning fluid which is stronger than gasoline, but I tested it with gas, and it did not dissolve. I glued the housing back together, and tried putting gas in the tank. No problems. Recap: My 2002 Accent has had charcoal in the vent lines, and a clogged filter. BTW: it was a bit of a surprise to find that this car was built September 11, 2001.

 

I have a 2002 Elantra GT with 101k miles.
Same slow fill problem.
My arthritis prevents me from doing the repairs myself, but I could be of some help probably.
I'd rather pay an amateur who really knows what works than a pro who is guessing.
If you fixed your own and it worked ... are you in southern California? Are you up for the job?
Or .... as an alternative, can you recommend a shop or mobile unit who knows about and can fix this problem right?

 

The dealer had mine twice under warranty and it didnt fix it right. the simple fix i did and cost nothing fixed it. if you go to a shop, make sure it is one you trust and not one chasing your checkbook.

tom