Hyundai Accent Offered in a 2 or 3 door hatchback, or 4 door sedan ,this compact offers room to seat 4 people and excellent economy.

2005 Hyundai Accent won't start. Has fuel/spark, and cranks over.

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Old 03-10-2017, 12:26 AM
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Default 2005 Hyundai Accent won't start. Has fuel/spark, and cranks over.

I drove to pick up some pizza, and the car was running normal (never has any issues). I turned off the car, went inside, came back out, and it wouldn't start. It cranks over, but won't start.

I tested the fuel pump, and there's spark, still won't start. I replaced the crankshaft angle sensor as suggested, still no luck. I scanned for codes with my OBD2 bluetooth scanner, nothing came up. I've organised to have someone bring a proper code scanner, but I'm sure the results will be the same.

Where else should I be looking?
 
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Old 03-10-2017, 02:30 AM
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Scanner showed a P0340 code, so I've ordered a new Cam Angle Sensor. Hopefully it does the trick.
 
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Old 03-10-2017, 05:26 PM
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Don't know how you tested for fuel or spark.
So, I have to assume you know what you're doing ... (sometimes a big mistake)
If you have fuel and the injectors are working properly and you have proper spark
then it may be a compression or timing issue.

Listening to the way the engine cranks over can indicate whether timing or compression could be the problem.

Note: Most of the time when an engine won't start, one checks the fuel pressure at the rails and the spark at the plugs.
Then maybe checking to see if the injectors have an injector signal
Or even touch them to feel the injectors clicking.

If P0340 codes comes up then one should check the circuit wiring for shorts and opens.
Check for powers and grounds. and if those things check good to see if there is an output signal from the cam position sensor before replacing it.

Good luck
 
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by avisitor
Don't know how you tested for fuel or spark.
So, I have to assume you know what you're doing ... (sometimes a big mistake)
If you have fuel and the injectors are working properly and you have proper spark
then it may be a compression or timing issue.

Listening to the way the engine cranks over can indicate whether timing or compression could be the problem.

Note: Most of the time when an engine won't start, one checks the fuel pressure at the rails and the spark at the plugs.
Then maybe checking to see if the injectors have an injector signal
Or even touch them to feel the injectors clicking.

If P0340 codes comes up then one should check the circuit wiring for shorts and opens.
Check for powers and grounds. and if those things check good to see if there is an output signal from the cam position sensor before replacing it.

Good luck
Compression shouldn't be an issue, as it literally ran fine when I parked it, but wouldn't start when I tried 5 minutes later. Even when cranking it sounds quite healthy.

Timing is my next guess. It's way past needing a timing belt, the timing belt is still intact, but it could have slipped. Once my new sensor arrives, if it doesn't fire up, I'll just replace the timing belt anyway.

I didn't test the injectors, but I will add that to my to-do list.

Thanks for the input!
 
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:15 AM
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Rather than just replacing parts hoping for a fix
Why not test it to make sure it is the right part for a fix??

It can get quite expensive chasing a fix by replacing parts.
But, if you got it that way ... good luck to you
 
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Old 03-19-2017, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by avisitor
Rather than just replacing parts hoping for a fix
Why not test it to make sure it is the right part for a fix??

It can get quite expensive chasing a fix by replacing parts.
But, if you got it that way ... good luck to you
Because I was hoping for the best by replacing 2 $50 sensors that my car would magically start



Turns out the timing belt is missing teeth in one area, so my timing has slipped. When I pulled off the top cover, a good part of the belt was showing.

I'm in the process of changing the belt, and I've just got a few questions if someone could please help

1. I've pulled the water pump off, and the gasket is stuck to the engine. It's hard to scrape off, so I want to remove the idler pulley (I have a replacement) to give me some more scraping room. I've tried super hard to remove the idler pulley bearing, is it held in with loctite? Is is a reverse thread screw? Or should I just try harder?

2. Does RTV sealant go on both sides of the gasket for the water pump? I need to adhere it to the water pump before trying to fit it back in the car.

3. What's the best method to clean out the debris in the timing belt area? Brake cleaner?
 
  #7  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:17 AM
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1. As far as I know the bolt that holds the pulley in .. is a regular right handed thread
It's tightening torque is about 40 ft-lbs. But, taking it out is usually very hard.
Usually a socket and long handle ratchet or extended pipe may help get it off

2. Usually I use RTV sealant on one side to hold the gasket in place
Putting it on both sides might help to make a better seal
However, if you ever have to change it again then the RTV will make it very difficult to remove the water pump

3. That is up to you.

Glad you found the problem.
Good luck to you


Edit: There are videos on youtube for an 2009 Accent
here part one of three.
 

Last edited by avisitor; 03-20-2017 at 10:28 AM.
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