Car threw a code a couple weeks ago, 76k on the clock.


Took it to the dealer, they wanted $230 with parts and labor to change the "Canister Purge Valve".


Can someone tell me where this valve is... is it the one right on top of the motor by the throttle body? Or is it somewhere near the evap canister by the fuel tank?


Either way, it cant be that hard to change, right?


Thanks.

 

First things first, make sure the gas cap is on tight. It should click at least 3 times. Many times it is that simple.

 

I have checked that, and the dealer even tested it.


I have since disconnected the battery and cleaned every single connection to every single solenoid that I could find... then put the battery back on and I'm still getting the code.

 

On the motor on the upper intake manifold.

 

Well, that's not a 2012 accent, that's a 1.5L 2010 motor.


On the 2012 1.6L Gamma (GDi) the intake is at the front, and exhaust is at the back...


The purge valve and purge solenoid look to be right under the engine cover in front of the cam cover, right above the intake....


The dealer said the canister is above the tank (which it is) but there are no valves above the tank... looking at a schematic, both the vent and purge valves are located right above the intake manifold. Parts 28415P and 28910 above the intake...


http://www.hyundaionlineparts.net/a/...1-28-283A.html

 

So I bought the 28910 and a PCV valve (mine was loose... yikes)... and re-set the battery (took the leads off and held together for 30 seconds)... started the car up, still getting a code.


I bought the "Canister Close Valve" as well (it goes right onto the side of the canister infront of the spare well above the tank slightly).


So when I change that out this week I'll post any change.

 

You need to diagnose instead just throwing parts and money away. First off you can bench test a purge valve and the canister close off valve as well using jumper wires connected to battery. Be careful, if not comfortable , don't do it. An easy way to test purge valve is simply try to blow through it with your mouth. This valve is always closed until commanded on by the pcm. You shouldn't be able to blow through it at all. Command it closed and open using jumper wires to test if valve closes completely every time. Also make sure to install it correct. Arrow points towards vacuum source(intake) . The canister close valve is always open until commanded closed by pcm. Using jumper wires. Valve should be completey closed with power applied. If both parts test good. Problem is else ware. Make sure fuel cap rubber O ring isn't torn.

 

Replaced the Canister Purge Valve this weekend...


The old one was bad... it would close under power, but I could still blow through it... knocked it around a bit and a TON of sand came out. Awesome.


So, it's replaced, but I haven't been able to clear my check engine light.


I took the leads off the battery and held them together for 30 seconds... then did some driving cycles... and it's still on.


Is there a sure-fire way to clear the light?

 

If the light is still on then you still have a problem. When you disconnected the battery and reconnected was the mil light on after first start up or did it stay off until you drove it? If mil light came on at start up, then Ecm is seeing a problem right a away. So it sounds like you replaced both canister close valve ( one mounted to canister at tank) and the purge valve witch is in the engine area. Get the vehicle scanned to see what codes are present.

 

The light never went off... even after disconnecting the battery, it just stayed on after startup. So it never cleared. It's still the P0456.