2005 Elantra heater core
#1
01-02-2012, 09:39 AM
2005 Elantra heater core
How difficult is it to replace a heater core on a 2005 Elantra??? We can't afford the $1200 price the dealer quoted. How hard is it to do, can it be done by 1 person (or is it a 2man job) and does it require any special tools?
#2
01-02-2012, 12:00 PM
Trust me, let the dealer do it.
COMPONENT LOCATION
COMPONENTS
REPLACEMENT
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station (see page HA-27).
2. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator.
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
4. Remove the bolts(A) and the expansion valve(B) from the evaporator core. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination.
5. Disconnect the inlet(C) and outlet(D) heater hoses from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected ; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on electrical parts or painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately.
6. Remove the crash pad (see post below).
7. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the temp. actuator, the mode actuator and the thermistor, then remove the mounting nut(B), the mounting bolts(C) and heater & evaporator unit(D).
8. Remove the self-tapping screws and the upper bracket(A), the side bracket(B). Be careful not to bend the inlet and outlet pipes during heater core(C) removal, and pull out the heater core.
9. Install the heater core in the reverse order of removal.
10.Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items :
COMPONENT LOCATION
COMPONENTS
REPLACEMENT
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station (see page HA-27).
2. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator.
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
4. Remove the bolts(A) and the expansion valve(B) from the evaporator core. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination.
5. Disconnect the inlet(C) and outlet(D) heater hoses from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected ; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on electrical parts or painted surfaces. If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately.
6. Remove the crash pad (see post below).
7. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the temp. actuator, the mode actuator and the thermistor, then remove the mounting nut(B), the mounting bolts(C) and heater & evaporator unit(D).
8. Remove the self-tapping screws and the upper bracket(A), the side bracket(B). Be careful not to bend the inlet and outlet pipes during heater core(C) removal, and pull out the heater core.
9. Install the heater core in the reverse order of removal.
10.Install in the reverse order of removal, and note these items :
A. If you're installing a new evaporator, add refrigerant oil (FD46XG).
B. Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the right O-rings for R-134a to avoid leakage.
C. Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption.
D. Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle ; it may damage the paint ; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately.
E. Apply sealant to the grommets.
F. Make sure that there is no air leakage.
G. Charge the system, and test its performance.
H. Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses and install the hose clamps securely.
I. Refill the cooling system with engine coolant.
B. Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the right O-rings for R-134a to avoid leakage.
C. Immediately after using the oil, replace the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption.
D. Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle ; it may damage the paint ; if the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately.
E. Apply sealant to the grommets.
F. Make sure that there is no air leakage.
G. Charge the system, and test its performance.
H. Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses and install the hose clamps securely.
I. Refill the cooling system with engine coolant.
Last edited by NovaResource; 10-21-2013 at 10:17 AM.
#3
01-02-2012, 12:07 PM
CRASH PAD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
INSTRUMENT FACIA PANEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
• When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts, to prevent damage.
• Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. Tilt the steering column down.
2. Remove the screws, and detach the clips.
3. Disconnect the following items to remove the instrument facia panel (A).
4.Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
LOWER CRASH PAD PANEL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
• When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts, to prevent damage.
• Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. Tilt the steering column up.
2. Disconnect the hood release cable from the hood release handle.
3. Detach the clips, and release the tabs, then remove the left crash pad side trim.
4. Remove the screws, bolts and clips.
5. Disconnect the self-diagnosis connector (A), then remove the lower crash pad panel (B).
6. Remove the support panel.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the hood opens properly.
HEATER CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Remove the instrument facia panel (See page BD- 54).
2. Loosen the screws.
3. Disconnect the hearter control unit connectors (A), then remove the heater control unit (B).
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
AUDIO ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Remove the instrument facia panel.
2. Loosen the screws.
3. Disconnect the audio connector and antena cable, then remove the audio assembly (A).
4.Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
GLOVE BOX REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the air damper wire (A) and guide (B) from the glove box (C).
2. Disconnect the pin (A), then remove the glove box (C).
3. Remove the screws and bolt, then remove the glove box housing (A).
Disconnect the glove box lamp connector (B).
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
INSTRUMENT FACIA PANEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
• When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts, to prevent damage.
• Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
2. Remove the screws, and detach the clips.
3. Disconnect the following items to remove the instrument facia panel (A).
A. Rheostat connector (B).
B. TCS switch connector (C).
C. Trip computer switch connector (D).
D. Clock connector (E).
E. Hazard switch connector (F).
F. Gigar lighter connector (G).
B. TCS switch connector (C).
C. Trip computer switch connector (D).
D. Clock connector (E).
E. Hazard switch connector (F).
F. Gigar lighter connector (G).
4.Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
• When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts, to prevent damage.
• Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
2. Disconnect the hood release cable from the hood release handle.
3. Detach the clips, and release the tabs, then remove the left crash pad side trim.
4. Remove the screws, bolts and clips.
5. Disconnect the self-diagnosis connector (A), then remove the lower crash pad panel (B).
6. Remove the support panel.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the hood opens properly.
1. Remove the instrument facia panel (See page BD- 54).
2. Loosen the screws.
3. Disconnect the hearter control unit connectors (A), then remove the heater control unit (B).
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
1. Remove the instrument facia panel.
2. Loosen the screws.
3. Disconnect the audio connector and antena cable, then remove the audio assembly (A).
4.Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
1. Disconnect the air damper wire (A) and guide (B) from the glove box (C).
2. Disconnect the pin (A), then remove the glove box (C).
3. Remove the screws and bolt, then remove the glove box housing (A).
Disconnect the glove box lamp connector (B).
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
Last edited by NovaResource; 10-21-2013 at 10:19 AM.
#4
01-02-2012, 12:07 PM
CLUSTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Remove the instrument facia panel (See page BD- 54).
2. Loosen the screws.
3. Disconnect the cluster connector (A), then remove the cluster (B).
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
PASSENGER´S SIDE VENT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Wrap a flat-tip screwdriver with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts to prevent damage. Carefully insert a flat-tip screwdriver next to the clip, and detach the clips (A) by prying on the passenger's side vent (B). Take care not to scratch the crash pad and related parts.
2. Remove the vent by detaching the clips.
3. Reinstall the hook portions of the vent first, then push the clip portions into place securely.
SIDE DEFROSTER NOZZLE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Wrap a flat-tip screwdriver with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts to prevent damage. Carefully insert a flat-tip screwdriver next to the clip, and detach the clip by prying on the side defroster nozzle (A). Take care not to scratch the crash pad and related parts.
2. Pull the vent trim out by releasing the hooks (B).
3. Reinstall the hook portions of the vent trim first, then securely push the clips into place.
CRASH PAD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service (see page RT- ).
• When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts to prevent damage.
• An assistant is helpful when removing and installing the dashboard.
• Take care not to scratch the dashboard, body and other related parts.
• Put in gloves to protect your hands.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Remove the following items.
5. Carefully remove the crash pad through the front door opening.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the crash pad fits onto the guide pins correctly.
- Before tightening the bolts, make sure the crash pad wire harnesses are not pinched.
- Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the antenna lead is connected properly.
- Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer´s radio station presets.
1. Remove the instrument facia panel (See page BD- 54).
2. Loosen the screws.
3. Disconnect the cluster connector (A), then remove the cluster (B).
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
1. Wrap a flat-tip screwdriver with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts to prevent damage. Carefully insert a flat-tip screwdriver next to the clip, and detach the clips (A) by prying on the passenger's side vent (B). Take care not to scratch the crash pad and related parts.
2. Remove the vent by detaching the clips.
3. Reinstall the hook portions of the vent first, then push the clip portions into place securely.
SIDE DEFROSTER NOZZLE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Wrap a flat-tip screwdriver with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts to prevent damage. Carefully insert a flat-tip screwdriver next to the clip, and detach the clip by prying on the side defroster nozzle (A). Take care not to scratch the crash pad and related parts.
2. Pull the vent trim out by releasing the hooks (B).
3. Reinstall the hook portions of the vent trim first, then securely push the clips into place.
CRASH PAD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the SRS section before performing repairs or service (see page RT- ).
• When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape, and apply protective tape around the related parts to prevent damage.
• An assistant is helpful when removing and installing the dashboard.
• Take care not to scratch the dashboard, body and other related parts.
• Put in gloves to protect your hands.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Remove the following items.
A. Front seat, both sides.
B. Console.
C. Crash pad side trim, both sides.
D. Front pillar trim, both sides.
E. Instument tacia panel.
F. Lower crash pad panel.
G. Heater control unit.
H. Clutster.
I. Audio.
J. Glove box.
K. Side defroster nozzle.
4. Disconnect the passenger's air bag connector (A), and auto light connector (B). Loosen the bolts and nut, then remove the crash pad (C).B. Console.
C. Crash pad side trim, both sides.
D. Front pillar trim, both sides.
E. Instument tacia panel.
F. Lower crash pad panel.
G. Heater control unit.
H. Clutster.
I. Audio.
J. Glove box.
K. Side defroster nozzle.
5. Carefully remove the crash pad through the front door opening.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
- Make sure the crash pad fits onto the guide pins correctly.
- Before tightening the bolts, make sure the crash pad wire harnesses are not pinched.
- Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the antenna lead is connected properly.
- Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer´s radio station presets.
Last edited by NovaResource; 10-21-2013 at 10:20 AM.
#5
01-02-2012, 12:33 PM
if your unsure about doing the work yourself (OP) check other repair shops for a price... dealerships are often called stealerships for a reason. Might want to look for customer reviews on the shops you check out too. The heater core isn't that expensive, its mostly the labor. The heater core is about $200 depending on where you get it from, if there aren't other parts that need replaced.
#7
10-20-2013, 09:04 PM
2003 heater core -- maybe similar to 2005???
Heater core - 2003 Elantra - STOP!! Don't try to replace this core without reading my experience. I started by studying my Haynes repair manual. It included a warning I don't recall seeing in Haynes before: it's a big job -- consider getting professional help. After getting a $1000 quote from my mechanic, I decided to do it myself. Haynes did all of their work and instructions for a 2000 model -- I assumed the 2003 would be similar since there were no alternate instructions. Problem #1: plastic parts in the dash are extremely brittle from age. Many parts were already cracked and a number of attachment points and clips broke off during my disassembly. Once I got the dash out (an extraordinarily difficult process) I was ready to have the car towed to the junk yard when I saw what I was up against: the heater assembly is wedged behind a 2" diameter steel tube that extends from one side of the car to the other and has multiple components -- including the steering column supports, etc. welded to it. I was trying to figure out how I was going to tell my daughter (the owner of the car) that I had failed totally, when it suddenly hit me -- there is an easier way. Here's the good news. Read all the way to the end -- there's a punch line that's even better.
Instead of removing the core intact, I cut off the inlet and outlet pipes a couple of inches above the point where they turn upward from the core. (I used a Dremel) They must be cut short enough to pull the core out past the blower assembly. Cut a few more inches off of the remaining pipes still in the car. (yes, you know where this is leading!) Cut the pipes off of your brand new core (yes, that's kind of scary) in the same place you cut the old core -- or perhaps a little higher. Buy some heater hose (5/8" inside diam.) and cut it long enough to span the gap plus a couple of inches. Buy four hose clamps -- the ones that screw tight -- I started with the smallest ones that fit, but they leaked, so I replaced them with the next size up. ("Ideal" brand #5212v from Pep Boys) Well, you can figure out the rest. It worked great. The plastic retainer over the pipes will no longer fit. I broke mine in half (deliberately) and replaced the remaining screw with a much longer one. It holds everything in place very nicely.
Now for the surprise ending: All of this could have been done by removing only the glove box and the heater core cover trim. No kidding. In fact, after I discovered it was leaking, I practically re-did the entire repair with only the glove box removed.
Enjoy!!
Instead of removing the core intact, I cut off the inlet and outlet pipes a couple of inches above the point where they turn upward from the core. (I used a Dremel) They must be cut short enough to pull the core out past the blower assembly. Cut a few more inches off of the remaining pipes still in the car. (yes, you know where this is leading!) Cut the pipes off of your brand new core (yes, that's kind of scary) in the same place you cut the old core -- or perhaps a little higher. Buy some heater hose (5/8" inside diam.) and cut it long enough to span the gap plus a couple of inches. Buy four hose clamps -- the ones that screw tight -- I started with the smallest ones that fit, but they leaked, so I replaced them with the next size up. ("Ideal" brand #5212v from Pep Boys) Well, you can figure out the rest. It worked great. The plastic retainer over the pipes will no longer fit. I broke mine in half (deliberately) and replaced the remaining screw with a much longer one. It holds everything in place very nicely.
Now for the surprise ending: All of this could have been done by removing only the glove box and the heater core cover trim. No kidding. In fact, after I discovered it was leaking, I practically re-did the entire repair with only the glove box removed.
Enjoy!!
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