Correct output for crank position sensor
#1
01-08-2011, 11:57 AM
Correct output for crank position sensor
'97 Elantra. I know with the engine off, the crank position sensor should read between 486 to 594 ohms. Does anyone know what it should read when the engine is cranking? Mine reads between 120 and 140 ohms. I'm trying to track down a problem.
Also, what is the correct name for the computer? Is it the power control module, or something else? Is it possible for a dealer or shop to test it and tell me if there is a problem with it?
Also, what is the correct name for the computer? Is it the power control module, or something else? Is it possible for a dealer or shop to test it and tell me if there is a problem with it?
#2
01-08-2011, 06:59 PM
www.hyundaiperformance.com
^^its there, do some searching. i don't spoon feed.
the computer is called the Engine Control Module or sometimes Engine Control Unit. whatever it is, its a computer. people will know what you're after.
only way to determine if its bad is either 1. error codes or 2. swapping for a known good one.
check everything else before the ECU, it almost always is never the ECU. unless you're driving a chrysler lebaron or lancer...won't go there.
^^its there, do some searching. i don't spoon feed.
the computer is called the Engine Control Module or sometimes Engine Control Unit. whatever it is, its a computer. people will know what you're after.
only way to determine if its bad is either 1. error codes or 2. swapping for a known good one.
check everything else before the ECU, it almost always is never the ECU. unless you're driving a chrysler lebaron or lancer...won't go there.
#3
01-09-2011, 09:56 AM
[QUOTE=zero_gravity;34209]www.hyundaiperformance.com
^^its there, do some searching. i don't spoon feed.
Not looking to be "spoon fed". This is a forum for the exchange of information and ideas. I've collected some data on my problem, and I'm simply looking to compare it to any data that others have collected. Its science. You gave me some good ideas in the other thread and I really appreciate it.
I think I'm going to replace the crank sensor and be done with it.
Different manufacturers and even mechanics refer to the computer differently. So, I wasn't sure what Hyundai called it. I used to have a Toyota mechanic who referred to it as the "brain". Never called it anything else. Anyway, knowing that its almost never the computer helps a lot.
^^its there, do some searching. i don't spoon feed.
Not looking to be "spoon fed". This is a forum for the exchange of information and ideas. I've collected some data on my problem, and I'm simply looking to compare it to any data that others have collected. Its science. You gave me some good ideas in the other thread and I really appreciate it.
I think I'm going to replace the crank sensor and be done with it.
Different manufacturers and even mechanics refer to the computer differently. So, I wasn't sure what Hyundai called it. I used to have a Toyota mechanic who referred to it as the "brain". Never called it anything else. Anyway, knowing that its almost never the computer helps a lot.
#4
01-09-2011, 10:23 AM
Old 2 wire crank sensor is actually a pusle generator... PCM reads signal as an A/C voltage.. best way to see signal is with occiliscope function on the HI SCAN.
Signal generated is an A/C signal the varies in frequency as speed increases, with an increase in voltage also..
Ohm is a basic check of generator coil resistance, from there it is voltage as tone ring rotate past generator..
Signal generated is an A/C signal the varies in frequency as speed increases, with an increase in voltage also..
Ohm is a basic check of generator coil resistance, from there it is voltage as tone ring rotate past generator..
#6
01-09-2011, 07:07 PM
You gots a HALL effect sensor... square wave signal to PCM...
Wires will contain source voltage, ground, and feedback signal from sensor to PCM.. still best to watch signal with occilliscope to verify clean square wave signal.
Wires will contain source voltage, ground, and feedback signal from sensor to PCM.. still best to watch signal with occilliscope to verify clean square wave signal.
#7
01-09-2011, 08:26 PM
yeah i was never very good with electrical lol. trying to learn it now for work, loads of fun. getting there.
didn't mean that you were looking for a handout bernd, but at the same time i think you understand that many are. you hand them the source of info and they'll still have the nerve to ask you to dig out the specifics. i was more so just commenting on the fact that i refuse to do that - for anyone.
didn't mean that you were looking for a handout bernd, but at the same time i think you understand that many are. you hand them the source of info and they'll still have the nerve to ask you to dig out the specifics. i was more so just commenting on the fact that i refuse to do that - for anyone.
#8
01-10-2011, 10:16 AM
I understand, as I'm much more active on other forums and have answered many newbie questions on everything from wood burning to homebrewing. This problem has me frustrated to no end. I've been without my cheap daily driver for almost a month now.
I'm OK with electrical thanks to my amateur radio days. I'm going to order a crank sensor and hope that is it. That other forum had some good tech info, but to check the signal from the sensor I need a scope. I'm going to do some wiring harness inspection just to make sure everything looks good.
I'm OK with electrical thanks to my amateur radio days. I'm going to order a crank sensor and hope that is it. That other forum had some good tech info, but to check the signal from the sensor I need a scope. I'm going to do some wiring harness inspection just to make sure everything looks good.