My check engine light came on, I had the car checked and it turns out it's a bad crank shaft sensor.

Does anyone have a diagram on where this sensor is located and IF replacing it will require the timing belt to be exposed, would it be a good idea as long as the mechanic is in "there" to have the timing belt replaced as well? My car has 137,000 miles on the current timing belt.

 

You should be on your 3rd timing belt. It should have been changed at 60,000 miles and 120,000 miles. Change it NOW. Or this may happen:

https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=6033






Don't be like this guy. We tried to warn him and he didn't listen: https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=4501

 

Great. Fine. I will. But how about the location of the CRANKSHAFT sensor?

 

In the thread you posted, they were referring to a Santa Fe. Does the same hold true (water pump, timing belt, balancer belt) for the Elantra?

 

Pushy, aren't we?


It's back by the flywheel:



6. Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor:


Here are clearer pics from a 2002 Elantra (same engine and position):






The first thread I posted is about a 1999 Tiburon with a 2.0L Beta 4-cylinder engine. That is the same motor that's in your '99 Elantra:
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=6033

The second thread is about a 2002 Santa Fe with a 2.7L V6. Timing belt and engine damage warnings are the same; the rest is not.

 

You accomplished what you set out to do, and scared the heck out of me when you referenced that other thread about the timing belt. So on Sunday I had my timing belt, water pump, crank shaft sensor, tensioner, and all associated belts replaced. My car runs GREAT now!! Thank you (and my mechanic Joe)!

For the first time in 2 years my check engine light wasn't glaring at me. For about a day anyway.

My check engine light went on again this morning, and the code showed that my purge valve was stuck in the open position.

I did a little research, and found that the purge valve is strictly an emissions thing, and that it could POSSIBLY make the car run rough (which it's NOT), or it will simply allow the evaporating gas to release into the atmosphere (or cause my car to catch fire in a rollover accident, but we won't even go there because I don't plan on rolling it).

After sinking $500 into my car just 2 days ago, since this purge valve isn't having any effect on the way my car is running, I'm tempted to ignore the atmosphere and my check engine light for another year or two (I've gotten very good at it) knowing that my tiny little Hyundai Elantra has more than made up for my carbon footprint by getting great milage for the last decade.

Is there anything I'm missing by choosing to NOT fix my purge valve? Will a bad purge valve leave me stranded by the side of the freeway, or cause major engine failure down the road?

Oh, and I apologize for being so pushy. I'm aware of it, and really do try not to let it get out of control, but sometimes it does manage to come out no matter how hard I try. `

 

It's true to assume the purge valve has NO effect on performance of your car. However, if you don't get the CEL to go out, you won't know if you have another problem in the future, which could potentially leave you stranded on the road.

I don't know where you live, but in states with emissions inspections, you won't pass that way.

The purge valve is just a little thing that sits between the brake booster and the wheel well. It's easy to get to, so no big deal to replace it. I don't know how much they cost, but it can't be too much. You'll have to call the dealer.

 

They average about $54.

I'll probably think about it down the road, but for right now I'm just plain old tired of car repairs. For right now, I think I'll spend the money on minnows and gas for the boat, and just relax for a little while.

Thank you for your input, and trust me, I will keep in mind what you said about the importance of clearing that CEL.