I'm new to the forum and have married into the Hyundai family. My wife bought the car with one of those southern hospitality service deals that give inspections and oil changes for life...well its inspection time and I drop off the car and they call and tell me the pads and rotors on the front don't meet inspection. I ask how much it will be, $410 for just the front. Apparently I also need the back done, so he'll do the back and front for $910....why the hell is this so expensive? Am I missing something? $38 per rotor at Auto Zone and $20 per set of pads for front and rear. So if I were doing just the front, the parts would be under $100. I have changed the pads on my brakes in the past a couple times, and changed rotors once when my grandfather was around to help. I have googled the steps and it seems easy enough to do and from what I remember from doing about 5 years back it was pretty easy. Here is what my plans for steps are, let me know if I am off track with this.

1: Buy Parts
2: Loosen up lug nuts and jack up car.
3: take off tires
4: take off calipers(are there any special steps with this, from what I remember these slide off when bolts are taken off)
5: use impact screw driver to remove phillips head screws that hold on rotor
6: put on new rotors
7: Do I bleed the lines here? If so is there a special order in which to do this? For example Rear Driver side first, rear passenger second, front passenger third, and front driver side last? MOST CONFUSED ABOUT THIS SECTION....
8: push down the thing that pushes the pads together
9: grease the non braking side of the new pad
10: Insert new pads.
11: reinstall caliper
12: Put tire back on, lower the car
DONE!

Am I missing anything? I'm assuming that for $900, I am missing something. Let me know before I go ****** my wife's car back and go to work on this thing.

Thanks,
Greg

 

1: Buy Parts
2: Loosen up lug nuts and jack up car.
3: take off tires
4: take off calipers(are there any special steps with this, from what I remember these slide off when bolts are taken off)
You have to remove the 2 bolts holding the calipers to the bracket. Do not disconnect the line. Just hang the caliper out of the way. Then you have to remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket to the spindle before you can remove the rotor.

5: use impact screw driver to remove phillips head screws that hold on rotor
6: put on new rotors
And reinstall the caliper brackets.

7: Do I bleed the lines here? If so is there a special order in which to do this? For example Rear Driver side first, rear passenger second, front passenger third, and front driver side last? MOST CONFUSED ABOUT THIS SECTION....
There is no reason to open the master cylinder or the lines just to change the pads or rotors. Unless the fluid is old and needs changing, don't touch it.

8: push down the thing that pushes the pads together
9: grease the non braking side of the new pad
No, you put some grease on the places where the pads slide on the caliper bracket, not on the back of the pad.

10: Insert new pads.
11: reinstall caliper
12: Put tire back on, lower the car
DONE!

 

Alright, sounds easy enough. The car has about 100k miles on it, should I think about changing the brake fluid while im down there?

 

If it's original, yeah, probably. How does it look?

This site might help you: Hyundai Service Website
Basically an online shop manual. You'll need to register but it's free.

 

What does bad brake fluid look like? Can you tell by checking the reservoir?

 

It should be somewhat clear. If it looks milky or muddy brown, it's time to replace it. But even if it's somewhat clear it can still have too much water in it. If the fluid hasn't been replaced in the last 5 years or 60K miles, I'd suggest doing it.

Brake fluid is very toxic. Keep it away from hands and eyes, and avoid spilling it on paint or the ground. And be sure to wash your hands well after handling it.

 

Thanks! Now to how to do it....from what I remember I just take off the brake fluid line from each caliper and press the brakes which will cause the line to bleed. I'm assuming I keep the reservoir full of brake fluid, and do one brake at a time. Is this correct? Is there a specific order for my car?

 

I prefer to pressure bleed when doing brake fluid flush.

I have adapter to fit over mouth of master, regulated air to pressurize, crack a bleeder open and let it run... need to run most fluid out of bottle so it is real low, then refill with fresh and blow again, using new fluid to push old out until cean fluid come out of bleed hole,, work way around car and be done..

Fluid absorbs moisture over time, that inturn promotes interior rot of metal components, and moisture also lowers boil point of the fluid.. braking is friction,, friction is heat,, heat absorbed into brake components and fluid,, fluid will boil,, boiling fluid is full of air,, air dont compress,, so no real brake operation.. Might consider upgrade from DOT-3 to DOT-4,, did that on wife van,, she heats brakes up like nobody business..

 

I don't really have a way of getting air to it unless I can use a pump that I use to pump up my tires. Any way to work around that? Or should I go buy something to do it?

 

From the sound of it, you might be best served to let a Hyundai shop flush the brake fluid.. decide if you want Dot-3 or DOT-4.. they'll have to call parts store for the DOT-4,, or you just supply large bottle for them.. dealer will have DOT-3 (std fluid, just lower boil point than DOT-4)