I change the wires and spark plugs on my 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe and after putting it back together I got codes PO134 and PO154 pls help

 

Put old parts back the way it was originally,and problem solved.OR-put new parts,and do not mix ignition wires.

 

Codes are for O2 sensor problems
Since you changed plugs, would suspect wiring harness or connector problems
Do a visual inspection of wiring and connectors near metal/exhaust.
Sometimes moving the harness will remove the problem temporarily

 

Agree.I drive 4 banger,so cannot see connection with O2 sensor during spark plugs change.6 cyl is different:that job is not easy,and possibility of disturbing harness exist,since access to rear plugs is really masterpiece of korean engineers.

 

Did you reuse intake gaskets? should replace intake gaskets whenever remove, O2 code most likely due to vacuum leak show too lean, that will set O2 codes. Easy to see if you have access to pids, or watch the lean /rich or just lean of front O2 sensors on both sides.

 

Intake gasket should be install new,and torqued by the book,Old gasket structure,and thickness is not the same,so either torque with higher value,number(not recommended),or heat up old gasket with torch,carefully,to get original structure,and thickness back. That's for people with no money,and knowledge of basic metallurgy.

 

Old practice used by Harley wrenches (Mechanics) is to put thin layer of anaerobic adhesive to mating surfaces. Anaerobic Gasket Maker is a single component, medium strength, thixotropic, anaerobic sealant that cures rapidly. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting aluminum surfaces. Its much thinner than conventional gasket sealant, much like cyanoacrylate or super glue type adhesives. I’ve been using for years, no knowledge of any leaks on any past jobs. Started using on old Chrysler A/C fittings that had one bolt on the side, which had high failure rate. Can also be used without gasket, or old gasket if not damaged. Torque values are based on bolt size and thread material, using torque to correct gasket is begging for disaster, Have observed as well. Run from technician without calibrated torque wrenches and specs for appropriate job, nothing like drilling out welding up re-drilling and tapping aluminum, coil type threads usually cause other problems, inserts better, as long as movement of thread material can be prevented. Depending on material, some gaskets can be soaked overnight, installed then after getting engine to operating temp, let cool and re-torque at least two time to re-establish acceptable thickness, torching gasket can have adverse effects, too much heat can harden reducing gaskets ability to mimic mating surfaces, will not be evident till leak develops prematurely. I would not recommend heat except to the most experienced of techs, even then, I would refrain. Having said the long winded version, If you succeed, in your method, thats a win, congrats! If we all did it the same, we'd all be chasing the same girl...

 

Very interesting. Each method may be used according to situation,so if there is time and money, should be done right,but sometimes shortage of both,plus no patience dictate desperate,different action. Sometimes work,sometimes not. Torque on bolts must be used in right way,so all stay right.By the number plus little more,or by right feel,not to surpass critical point of destruction. As for the aluminum,copper,etc.,used gaskets,in my opinion-right amount of heat way before melting point,plus slowly cooling, may bring "mini forged" structure to at least softer state,so used again may do its job. Remember desperate measures in desperate times...

 

Could not agree more