Where is the cooling system bleed?
#2
There is none. The reservoir tank is at the highest point and air will rise to it.
I read your other post and I question that it's overheating. You can't tell an engine is overheating by sound. What is the vehicle doing that make you think it's overheating?
I read your other post and I question that it's overheating. You can't tell an engine is overheating by sound. What is the vehicle doing that make you think it's overheating?
#3
By hearing the engine, it starts to misfire and knock and sounds like a deisel engine. The chamber explosions are caused by heat and preasure and not by the spark
Previously the presure buildup was such that it broke the radiator. I, and my radiator guy, thought originally that the problem was the radiator. Problem persisted.
I took out the water pump and inspected it. It's ok.
I changed the thermostate.
Still, when I fill up the system with water, sticking a water hose where the hose from the engine goes into the radiator, leaving the hose from the engine to spill the water over the front end. It filled up. I turn the engine on, rev it up to 2k RPM. NOTHING. It should have pushed out a gush of water.
For some reason the water pump is not pushing it out.
I am back to square one.
Previously the presure buildup was such that it broke the radiator. I, and my radiator guy, thought originally that the problem was the radiator. Problem persisted.
I took out the water pump and inspected it. It's ok.
I changed the thermostate.
Still, when I fill up the system with water, sticking a water hose where the hose from the engine goes into the radiator, leaving the hose from the engine to spill the water over the front end. It filled up. I turn the engine on, rev it up to 2k RPM. NOTHING. It should have pushed out a gush of water.
For some reason the water pump is not pushing it out.
I am back to square one.
#4
I'd suggest going to a qualified mechanic.
#5
Coolant Flow
Dalilean - what Nova said is true. Several items could cause 'knocking'. Getting back to your coolant issues. Your note was not too clear when you said you replaced the thermostat. If the thermostat was installed when you ran water from the hose thru the engine/radiator, the thermostat would be closed (cold water) letting just a dribble of water thru the bypass. That could be the reason why you did not see a gusher of water at 2000 RPM? If the thermostat was not installed when you ran the 2000 RPM then we're back to square one.
Keep us updated.
Ray
Keep us updated.
Ray
#6
Ok, put everything back for a test run.
Water pump is working, so I just cleaned it, changed the gasket and put it back.
Thermostat was changed just in case.
Here are the sintoms.
Car turns on fine. Runs fine in idle. Reve it up to 2k and later to 2.5k on neutral, no prob.
As soon as i put it in drive and went up my street incline (not that much, just enough to force the engine) it felt as if I was dragging an anchor, then it started to misfire.
When it did that before, the radiator blew it top (literally). they changed it, and tested it. Aparently the test was in idle.
I checked everything, no physical over heat but the water level began to quickly rise as the temp from the engine reached the radiator.
Water pump is working, so I just cleaned it, changed the gasket and put it back.
Thermostat was changed just in case.
Here are the sintoms.
Car turns on fine. Runs fine in idle. Reve it up to 2k and later to 2.5k on neutral, no prob.
As soon as i put it in drive and went up my street incline (not that much, just enough to force the engine) it felt as if I was dragging an anchor, then it started to misfire.
When it did that before, the radiator blew it top (literally). they changed it, and tested it. Aparently the test was in idle.
I checked everything, no physical over heat but the water level began to quickly rise as the temp from the engine reached the radiator.
#7
Oh, forgot to add.
Engine oil looks fine, so does the transmission oil (automatic)
Going to see if I can borrow a diagnostics comp and a compression meter tomorrow.
I am planing to take it to an actual mechanic as soon as I get it to actually reach the mechanic.
Engine oil looks fine, so does the transmission oil (automatic)
Going to see if I can borrow a diagnostics comp and a compression meter tomorrow.
I am planing to take it to an actual mechanic as soon as I get it to actually reach the mechanic.
#8
Update.
Since I had the battery unhooked during the work, the check engine got cleared. When I pluged in the diagnostics computer, it showed that everything was OK.
I made a compression test of each cilinder.
From passenger to driver.
170
140
160
170
Not really sure if the difference is enough to cause the problem.
Since I had the battery unhooked during the work, the check engine got cleared. When I pluged in the diagnostics computer, it showed that everything was OK.
I made a compression test of each cilinder.
From passenger to driver.
170
140
160
170
Not really sure if the difference is enough to cause the problem.
#10
Discussed it with my mechanic. He said that although it is not good, it is also not as bad as to cause the type of misfireing and problems I am getting. Basically untill the check engine goes on, it is a game of guessing to see what sensor is messing with the system.
Mechanically it is ok (not great, but tolerable)
Seems that the problem has to be electronics.
Mechanically it is ok (not great, but tolerable)
Seems that the problem has to be electronics.