I have a 2006 Sonata with 66,000 miles and suddenly the ABS and ESC OFF indicator lights went on. The car seems to drive fine, no marked difference. This lights go off after the engine if turned off and turned on again, but then come on after driving a bit. In some of the info I have read on line, it may indicate a problem with a faulty wheel speed sensor?? I have checked the manual and there is nothing definitive in there. DO I nned to take to the dealer or just an auto shop. Also is this a bad problem, that needs immediate attention??? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

Multiple possibilities here..

Have you indeed had the "092" brake light switch campaign done ? Something Hyundai not calll out in the instructions is to use GDS to verify ABS/ESC module free of codes when campaign completed.

Many inputs to abs/esc besides wheel speed sensors... Yaw rate on floor in center consle, steering angle on steering column, speed sensors, brake light switch input, and others...

Advise dealer scan with GDS and go from there.

 

Yes, your problem is likely a malfunctioning brake light switch. Next time the dash lights come on, simple have someone check your brake lights while you depress the brake pedal. If the switch is malfunctioning, you will have no brake lights. This repair is not a company campaign, but a full NHTSA safety recall. Go to:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallsearch.cfm

to look up the recall yourself. Dealers are obligated to fix this problem for free.

 

One day when I got in my car to go to work I noticed the ESC OFF light on and as I drove straight, I noticed that the steering wheel was not straight. I called my wife who had used the car last if she noticed anything wrong with the car. She said, "No". How about the light on the dash? "Oh, that?" She finally told me that she hit a really big pot hole.
I brought the car to a shop to do a wheel alignment. The light went off.

Moral of the story...don't let your wife drive the car.

 

And you are supposed to re-calibrate the steering angle sensor after an alignment.. this way the ESC module knows the steering wheel is straight ahead and jive with the yaw rate sensor... kinda like the Santa Fe that came in with the ESC light on, steering wheel sideways, and a Yaw sensor code..

ESC module seen turned wheel off center, vehicle speed and no yaw rate, it was really confused as to what was going on, so it stored code and turned light on.

Forgot to mention in the previous post -----> engine DTC will stop communication with ESC/ABS module and turn light on too.

 

Recently the ESC Off light has been coming on in my Santa Fe. When it does, it is like it was put into neutral and when I push on the gas it does nothing. I just did it yesterday while I was driving!!! The check engine light is also on all the time. Any ideas?

 

Search is your friend:
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...-lights-14246/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...ur-help-14042/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...engaged-12379/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...-lights-12192/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...s-light-10764/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...ame-time-8238/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...-go-off-10201/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...one-out-10029/
https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/h...santa-fe-7901/

 

You said: Front end alignment is not an unusual operation especially here in PR, where the roads are mostly potholes. So are you saying YES, the ESC module needs to be re-calibrated after an alignment? I'm not 100% sure that was your intention, so I'm asking about the necessity of that. I'd like to know for my own reference. Would that be something the dealer would have to do?

Thanks for any info you have on this.

 

Plain engineer's theory: when the alignment preserves or restitutes the condition: steering wheel straight & car drives straight, there is no need for calibration. If steering wheel vs angle sensor wasn't altered. In such case the primary condition is fulfilled: angle sensor says 'straight' (steering angle =0 within some tolerance corridor) and all 4 wheel speeds are identical (again within some tolerance due to wheel circumference differences).

You don't need a dealer to calibrate, just a dealer level scantool ...