A cold air intake is good for a noticable hp increase but dont expect to go running 12's.......its good for about 10 to 12 ponies at the crank . I ran my Tibby at the track when it was stock and ran 15.2's I changed my air intake and put a 4.7 k ohm resistor in place of my IAT sensor and I ran a 14.98 I installed a stainless steel exhaust system ( headers and 3in exhaust pipe back w/no cats) and ran a 14.70 best and picked up 3mph on the top end at 96 mph....after that I went to ebay and bought a Zex dry nitrous kit and installed the 75 hp pills and ran a 13.8.........not happy with that I ordered 100 hp jets from Zex(.46 & .26 jets ) and a Carbon fibor hood and I went up in smoke( tires I mean) and ran a 13.90 by this time I was pulling my hair out , ordered new skins on the rims215/40/17's on stock rims Bf Goodrich Scorchers and ran a dismal 13.6 still skating the tires.........went back and got Bf goodrich Drag radials 205/40/17's , effectively upping gear ratio and ran a 13.0.......I could just taste the 12 second mark and I was gettin mad. This week I'm gutting the car and installing a fidanza fly wheel with a Spec Stage 4 race clutch and a SMT6 engine management system from perfect power performance parts ...........Guys , I bought everything off ebay except the clutch and engine management System ,I've only spent $200 on the hood, $270 on the nitrous kit, $36 on the cold air intake,$24 on colder spark plugs (cuz yer gonna need em) $355 on the aluminum Flywheel, $420 on the exhaust system ( the whole thing), $459 on the Clutch , and $500 on the SMT6 System .....so for $2260 in go fastr stuff I can spank a WRX STi that cost $32,000 and I've got a car that cost me $18,200 & parts , If anyone has any Ideas on more cheap go fast stuff .I'm all ears .......and I hope this helps the new gen Tibs and Hyundai goers to push their cars to the faster side of the track

 

Oh and on the subject of oiling the airfilter on the cold air intake system Duke is absolutely right .....ya cant oil the filter, ya have to keep it clean more often though ....the oil gets all over the sensor an keeps the maf from seeing the real air flow and causes the pcm to reduce fuel enrichment because it thinks too much fuel to air is being read........Duke?......are you in Driveability or do you just work on too many Hyundai's <snicker>[8D]

 

Well, the facts are, straighter pipes with a filter lower to the ground and out of the engine bay, are the best to get.

OUt of all of the intakes I've owned and seen run in person, the AEM is the absolute cream of the crop for us. The filter is protected and almost sealed off from the engine compartment. None of the twists are very tight, and it's very smooth. The dyno for them is a 12 to 16 HP gain from the stock intake. You can find that dyno on AEM's website.

The Dragun, I've never heard of, so I'm assuming it's a short ram intake. They suck, don't get one, you won't get much gains from them.

Injen is a popular name, and VERY expensive, but they flow like CRAP for our cars and suck in moderately warm air from the lower engine bay. Stay away.

That's not true at all my man. Iceman is beginning development of a CAI for the RD series. I have a friend down there working with them. They don't just slap a pipe that will fit in there and call it a day. They design the systems to have easy bends and smooth lines. They get a high flow filter for them and design the entire thing. Personally, the Injen Dyno'd awhile back at 4 HP gain. On the same car, same day, the AEM dyno'd at 16 HP gain from stock. There IS a difference.

LOL

Anyone can get something powdercoated or anodized. Even the no name intake guys, and some of them do. The fact is though, most of those guys just copy the bends and turns that the others have done and rip them off. Buying ripoff stuff LOWERS the amount of legitimate product that is bought, so sales figures for our cars drop. Sales figures drop and items are discontinued or no further development of other parts happens.

Patrick, how do you know how well if flows? Did you take the time to flow test it? Have you checked to see if it's a copy of another popular BIG NAME intake out there?

This is true. It is just some mandrel bent pipe. BUT. The differences in length, type of bends, complexity of bends, and degree of bends, slow down the air and make it turbulent. There IS a big difference between intakes. We had a discussion about this about 2 years ago on Rdtiburon.com , about 8 pages long. Pictures and everything.

It will man, trust me. I'd never go back to the stock intake or one of the Injen clones.

Completely agreed.

I've NEVER heard of someone having a MAF or IAT sensor problem from Filter Oil. If that's a problem, you over oil your filter.

You DO need to oil a filter that calls for it. Just do it via the instructions.