2010 door lock issues
#1
01-02-2016, 12:20 PM
2010 door lock issues
I have a 2010 tuscon and we are having difficulty with the door lock. most of the time the the door locks and unlocks fine. there are times (surprise) that the passenger front and hatch does not work. they will not unlock.
the passengers door will unlock using the manual lever, we have to climb into the back to use the hatch release if we can get to it. (before shoping or after shopping)
some of the tests I have tried
1. The driver's door lock button = no
2. The driver's door unlock button = no
3. The passenger's door lock button = no
4. The passenger's door unlock button = no
5. The fob's lock button = no
6. The fob's unlock button = no
7. Placing it into drive = no
8. Placing it into park =no
sometimes we can place the car into drive and backup a bit then back to park then it unlocks.
went to a local dealer and they said it was the actuators, I disagree. when this happens it always the passenger door and hatch at the same time never independent. then later they work, at the next shopping stop.
the passengers door will unlock using the manual lever, we have to climb into the back to use the hatch release if we can get to it. (before shoping or after shopping)
some of the tests I have tried
1. The driver's door lock button = no
2. The driver's door unlock button = no
3. The passenger's door lock button = no
4. The passenger's door unlock button = no
5. The fob's lock button = no
6. The fob's unlock button = no
7. Placing it into drive = no
8. Placing it into park =no
sometimes we can place the car into drive and backup a bit then back to park then it unlocks.
went to a local dealer and they said it was the actuators, I disagree. when this happens it always the passenger door and hatch at the same time never independent. then later they work, at the next shopping stop.
#2
01-10-2016, 12:24 PM
Hi Frank3427, seems we have the same problem with door locks on the 2010 Tucson. My daughter has a new born, and is having this problem unable to open rear door to access the stroller. Last year the problem resolved its self when the dealer had the vehicle in the shop. Thought it was due to moisture and low temperatures. Problem is now back, and showing an error message the door is open, and leaving the interior light on, causing the battery to drain. So now we can add dead battery to our frustration.
#3
07-09-2019, 02:21 PM
Dead Thread updated with a solution
I was attempting some google-fu and found this thread with no real solution. Since I imagine others are looking and will stumble across I figured I would leave a solution.
The 2010 Hyundai Tucson driver rear door lock and hatch are in series. If the actuator in the driver rear door gets weak and starts to fail to fully lock or unlock then the tailgate won't receive the unlock signal. This results in what the prior comments have reported. You would have to physically reach in and unlock the driver rear door lock lever. This will then allow the rear to be opened as well.
The actuators on this model are prone to failure about every 3-5 years or so in my experience. The motor's winding wear out and the motor loses strength. Some vehicles you can buy the motors and just disassemble the actuator housing and swap in the relatively inexpensive motors (say like 13 bucks for two) but on the Hyundai I have not had luck finding motors with the brass gears that match up. The motors are mabuchi FC-280pc-22125 (the "C" is for clockwise) with dimensions of ~30.5mm case length x 18mm width x 17mm diameter but the brass screw drive seems permanently affixed resulting in a need to find a direct match. Some manufacturers (ex: Ford, the brass screw slides off and is swappable to a new motor).
So the solution: The driver rear door actuator is OEM part number 81410-2s000. I have not come across a 3rd party alternative and the average cost is about $125 with a minimum of around 50-60 bucks and a max of 200ish. Since the motors seem to wear out through regular use I wouldn't recommend a used or recycled part as your mileage may vary on it's prior lifespan. You will need to remove the door panel (3 screws around the perimeter behind plug covers followed by a screw in the door handle and one on the lock lever cover). Then you will need to remove the triangular trim above the panel (pry off with plastic pry tool). You will need to remove the exterior door handle as it is incorporated with the actuator parts inside the door (there is a 2" rubber plug on door edge); remove the cap and loosen the screw. Then you can pull the latch open and slide the exterior door cap (piece next to handle that pulls out). Slide the handle rightward toward the edge of the door and it will slide right and be free to pull straight out. Then you will need to remove 1 screw holding the exterior handle mechanism from the interior of the door. Now back to the inside: With the panel removed, you will need to gently pull the plastic weather barrier from the door. The adhesive is like bubble gum and you can press the barrier back in place when done. You only need to peel it about half way down and not fully remove it. Now remove the lock/lever assembly (maybe 1 screw here) by sliding it left. Next unscrew the latch assembly (3 screws on side of the door) and then on the interior there are 2 plastic indents that you press in and slide the assembly right. You will also need to remove two black nuts that hold the left window rail in place and wiggle that out of the door as the latch assembly sits around it and will not be removable with it in place. If you've made it this far and you're still with me, I have great news.... You're almost done with the disassembly, but you have to do some master level positioning to now get the door actuator motor with the cables out of the opening. It may help to separate the door handle portion that is lock tabbed onto the top of the door actuator motor (look on top of the actuator housing, it's white plastic and there is a slot on the actuator and a 2 prong tab from the door handle assembly you can separate to make life easier). Pull all that out and you can begin to swap the new actuator over to the exterior door handle assembly and the interior door latch assembly (the cables have lock tabs to the two assemblies or just slide in with a right angle piece). Swap and reverse the steps. Overall time to complete is about 1 hour after you've done it once or twice. First time, expect to probably take twice as long since you'll be cautious. There are videos out there that can assist with some of this visually, but I don't see one for this type of Tucson. You can search for Hyundai door handle removal for the exterior handle. The interior "guts" would be similar to other years and models.
This advice comes from purchasing a used 2010 model in 2014 and having to replace 3 door actuators off the lot (The dealer marks up the service considerably for those not handi-capable/DIYers) and 2 more again in 2016 and the rear driver door again in 2019. So far this is has been my only major gripe of the vehicle. Around 150-180k I had to replace the MAF sensor and the PCV valve but otherwise just tires and brakes.
The 2010 Hyundai Tucson driver rear door lock and hatch are in series. If the actuator in the driver rear door gets weak and starts to fail to fully lock or unlock then the tailgate won't receive the unlock signal. This results in what the prior comments have reported. You would have to physically reach in and unlock the driver rear door lock lever. This will then allow the rear to be opened as well.
The actuators on this model are prone to failure about every 3-5 years or so in my experience. The motor's winding wear out and the motor loses strength. Some vehicles you can buy the motors and just disassemble the actuator housing and swap in the relatively inexpensive motors (say like 13 bucks for two) but on the Hyundai I have not had luck finding motors with the brass gears that match up. The motors are mabuchi FC-280pc-22125 (the "C" is for clockwise) with dimensions of ~30.5mm case length x 18mm width x 17mm diameter but the brass screw drive seems permanently affixed resulting in a need to find a direct match. Some manufacturers (ex: Ford, the brass screw slides off and is swappable to a new motor).
So the solution: The driver rear door actuator is OEM part number 81410-2s000. I have not come across a 3rd party alternative and the average cost is about $125 with a minimum of around 50-60 bucks and a max of 200ish. Since the motors seem to wear out through regular use I wouldn't recommend a used or recycled part as your mileage may vary on it's prior lifespan. You will need to remove the door panel (3 screws around the perimeter behind plug covers followed by a screw in the door handle and one on the lock lever cover). Then you will need to remove the triangular trim above the panel (pry off with plastic pry tool). You will need to remove the exterior door handle as it is incorporated with the actuator parts inside the door (there is a 2" rubber plug on door edge); remove the cap and loosen the screw. Then you can pull the latch open and slide the exterior door cap (piece next to handle that pulls out). Slide the handle rightward toward the edge of the door and it will slide right and be free to pull straight out. Then you will need to remove 1 screw holding the exterior handle mechanism from the interior of the door. Now back to the inside: With the panel removed, you will need to gently pull the plastic weather barrier from the door. The adhesive is like bubble gum and you can press the barrier back in place when done. You only need to peel it about half way down and not fully remove it. Now remove the lock/lever assembly (maybe 1 screw here) by sliding it left. Next unscrew the latch assembly (3 screws on side of the door) and then on the interior there are 2 plastic indents that you press in and slide the assembly right. You will also need to remove two black nuts that hold the left window rail in place and wiggle that out of the door as the latch assembly sits around it and will not be removable with it in place. If you've made it this far and you're still with me, I have great news.... You're almost done with the disassembly, but you have to do some master level positioning to now get the door actuator motor with the cables out of the opening. It may help to separate the door handle portion that is lock tabbed onto the top of the door actuator motor (look on top of the actuator housing, it's white plastic and there is a slot on the actuator and a 2 prong tab from the door handle assembly you can separate to make life easier). Pull all that out and you can begin to swap the new actuator over to the exterior door handle assembly and the interior door latch assembly (the cables have lock tabs to the two assemblies or just slide in with a right angle piece). Swap and reverse the steps. Overall time to complete is about 1 hour after you've done it once or twice. First time, expect to probably take twice as long since you'll be cautious. There are videos out there that can assist with some of this visually, but I don't see one for this type of Tucson. You can search for Hyundai door handle removal for the exterior handle. The interior "guts" would be similar to other years and models.
This advice comes from purchasing a used 2010 model in 2014 and having to replace 3 door actuators off the lot (The dealer marks up the service considerably for those not handi-capable/DIYers) and 2 more again in 2016 and the rear driver door again in 2019. So far this is has been my only major gripe of the vehicle. Around 150-180k I had to replace the MAF sensor and the PCV valve but otherwise just tires and brakes.
#4
10-25-2019, 01:08 PM
2016 hyundai tucson.........Both rear doors will not open from inside OR outside. Locks work fine. Taken to the dealer out of warranty and was told this was not a safety issue !!!!????......Ask the service writer how it cannot be. Having an accident with grandchildren in car seats and not being able to get them out thru the doors? He told me he would place his 2yo in this car with no problem. He would not call his wife and let me ask her the same question. So.......both rear actuators needed replaced due to wear & tear costing $700.00 Both at the same time...wear & tear???? I told him it felt like he was holding my grand children's safety hostage. He reassured me that he is 75% sure they will recall this safety issue after all the stink over this issue. Then I could get my money back. Now both back door work fine but the front passenger outside still takes two pulls to open after unlock.....then one until it is locked again. WAITING ON RECALL.........
#5
04-08-2023, 05:27 PM
I was attempting some google-fu and found this thread with no real solution. Since I imagine others are looking and will stumble across I figured I would leave a solution.
The 2010 Hyundai Tucson driver rear door lock and hatch are in series. If the actuator in the driver rear door gets weak and starts to fail to fully lock or unlock then the tailgate won't receive the unlock signal. This results in what the prior comments have reported. You would have to physically reach in and unlock the driver rear door lock lever. This will then allow the rear to be opened as well.
The actuators on this model are prone to failure about every 3-5 years or so in my experience. The motor's winding wear out and the motor loses strength. Some vehicles you can buy the motors and just disassemble the actuator housing and swap in the relatively inexpensive motors (say like 13 bucks for two) but on the Hyundai I have not had luck finding motors with the brass gears that match up. The motors are mabuchi FC-280pc-22125 (the "C" is for clockwise) with dimensions of ~30.5mm case length x 18mm width x 17mm diameter but the brass screw drive seems permanently affixed resulting in a need to find a direct match. Some manufacturers (ex: Ford, the brass screw slides off and is swappable to a new motor).
So the solution: The driver rear door actuator is OEM part number 81410-2s000. I have not come across a 3rd party alternative and the average cost is about $125 with a minimum of around 50-60 bucks and a max of 200ish. Since the motors seem to wear out through regular use I wouldn't recommend a used or recycled part as your mileage may vary on it's prior lifespan. You will need to remove the door panel (3 screws around the perimeter behind plug covers followed by a screw in the door handle and one on the lock lever cover). Then you will need to remove the triangular trim above the panel (pry off with plastic pry tool). You will need to remove the exterior door handle as it is incorporated with the actuator parts inside the door (there is a 2" rubber plug on door edge); remove the cap and loosen the screw. Then you can pull the latch open and slide the exterior door cap (piece next to handle that pulls out). Slide the handle rightward toward the edge of the door and it will slide right and be free to pull straight out. Then you will need to remove 1 screw holding the exterior handle mechanism from the interior of the door. Now back to the inside: With the panel removed, you will need to gently pull the plastic weather barrier from the door. The adhesive is like bubble gum and you can press the barrier back in place when done. You only need to peel it about half way down and not fully remove it. Now remove the lock/lever assembly (maybe 1 screw here) by sliding it left. Next unscrew the latch assembly (3 screws on side of the door) and then on the interior there are 2 plastic indents that you press in and slide the assembly right. You will also need to remove two black nuts that hold the left window rail in place and wiggle that out of the door as the latch assembly sits around it and will not be removable with it in place. If you've made it this far and you're still with me, I have great news.... You're almost done with the disassembly, but you have to do some master level positioning to now get the door actuator motor with the cables out of the opening. It may help to separate the door handle portion that is lock tabbed onto the top of the door actuator motor (look on top of the actuator housing, it's white plastic and there is a slot on the actuator and a 2 prong tab from the door handle assembly you can separate to make life easier). Pull all that out and you can begin to swap the new actuator over to the exterior door handle assembly and the interior door latch assembly (the cables have lock tabs to the two assemblies or just slide in with a right angle piece). Swap and reverse the steps. Overall time to complete is about 1 hour after you've done it once or twice. First time, expect to probably take twice as long since you'll be cautious. There are videos out there that can assist with some of this visually, but I don't see one for this type of Tucson. You can search for Hyundai door handle removal for the exterior handle. The interior "guts" would be similar to other years and models.
This advice comes from purchasing a used 2010 model in 2014 and having to replace 3 door actuators off the lot (The dealer marks up the service considerably for those not handi-capable/DIYers) and 2 more again in 2016 and the rear driver door again in 2019. So far this is has been my only major gripe of the vehicle. Around 150-180k I had to replace the MAF sensor and the PCV valve but otherwise just tires and brakes.
The 2010 Hyundai Tucson driver rear door lock and hatch are in series. If the actuator in the driver rear door gets weak and starts to fail to fully lock or unlock then the tailgate won't receive the unlock signal. This results in what the prior comments have reported. You would have to physically reach in and unlock the driver rear door lock lever. This will then allow the rear to be opened as well.
The actuators on this model are prone to failure about every 3-5 years or so in my experience. The motor's winding wear out and the motor loses strength. Some vehicles you can buy the motors and just disassemble the actuator housing and swap in the relatively inexpensive motors (say like 13 bucks for two) but on the Hyundai I have not had luck finding motors with the brass gears that match up. The motors are mabuchi FC-280pc-22125 (the "C" is for clockwise) with dimensions of ~30.5mm case length x 18mm width x 17mm diameter but the brass screw drive seems permanently affixed resulting in a need to find a direct match. Some manufacturers (ex: Ford, the brass screw slides off and is swappable to a new motor).
So the solution: The driver rear door actuator is OEM part number 81410-2s000. I have not come across a 3rd party alternative and the average cost is about $125 with a minimum of around 50-60 bucks and a max of 200ish. Since the motors seem to wear out through regular use I wouldn't recommend a used or recycled part as your mileage may vary on it's prior lifespan. You will need to remove the door panel (3 screws around the perimeter behind plug covers followed by a screw in the door handle and one on the lock lever cover). Then you will need to remove the triangular trim above the panel (pry off with plastic pry tool). You will need to remove the exterior door handle as it is incorporated with the actuator parts inside the door (there is a 2" rubber plug on door edge); remove the cap and loosen the screw. Then you can pull the latch open and slide the exterior door cap (piece next to handle that pulls out). Slide the handle rightward toward the edge of the door and it will slide right and be free to pull straight out. Then you will need to remove 1 screw holding the exterior handle mechanism from the interior of the door. Now back to the inside: With the panel removed, you will need to gently pull the plastic weather barrier from the door. The adhesive is like bubble gum and you can press the barrier back in place when done. You only need to peel it about half way down and not fully remove it. Now remove the lock/lever assembly (maybe 1 screw here) by sliding it left. Next unscrew the latch assembly (3 screws on side of the door) and then on the interior there are 2 plastic indents that you press in and slide the assembly right. You will also need to remove two black nuts that hold the left window rail in place and wiggle that out of the door as the latch assembly sits around it and will not be removable with it in place. If you've made it this far and you're still with me, I have great news.... You're almost done with the disassembly, but you have to do some master level positioning to now get the door actuator motor with the cables out of the opening. It may help to separate the door handle portion that is lock tabbed onto the top of the door actuator motor (look on top of the actuator housing, it's white plastic and there is a slot on the actuator and a 2 prong tab from the door handle assembly you can separate to make life easier). Pull all that out and you can begin to swap the new actuator over to the exterior door handle assembly and the interior door latch assembly (the cables have lock tabs to the two assemblies or just slide in with a right angle piece). Swap and reverse the steps. Overall time to complete is about 1 hour after you've done it once or twice. First time, expect to probably take twice as long since you'll be cautious. There are videos out there that can assist with some of this visually, but I don't see one for this type of Tucson. You can search for Hyundai door handle removal for the exterior handle. The interior "guts" would be similar to other years and models.
This advice comes from purchasing a used 2010 model in 2014 and having to replace 3 door actuators off the lot (The dealer marks up the service considerably for those not handi-capable/DIYers) and 2 more again in 2016 and the rear driver door again in 2019. So far this is has been my only major gripe of the vehicle. Around 150-180k I had to replace the MAF sensor and the PCV valve but otherwise just tires and brakes.
Here the ebay link - https://www.ebay.com/itm/28502140097...Bk9SR5TH8a7sYQ
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