Oi l filter wrench

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Oi l filter wrench

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Oi l filter wrench - 1/2/2008 4:42:01 PM

silverstallion

Posts: 1
Joined: 1/2/2008
Status: offline

Hi all,
New to the forum. Just bought an 08 because I liked my wife's 07 so much. Been changing her oil and will eventually change mine, but am looking to where I can buy a filter wrench. I have a collection of wrenches and none of my cap wrenches fit, and don't really like using a strap wrench. Would like a cap wrench so I can use a torque wrench. Can anyone point me in the right direction. I tried the dealer with no luck.

Post #: 1

RE: Oi l filter wrench - 1/2/2008 6:24:36 PM

madindian1

Posts: 262
Joined: 12/26/2007
Status: offline

torque wrench? you don't need to tightened them that tight, i use my hand sometimes. what you can do is if you're lucky try to catch the tool truck that comes to the dealership, they normally arrive about noon on fridays. or try to but it online .EPPYSTOOLS.COM

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if i'm not doing **** at work i will help you

(in reply to silverstallion)

Post #: 2

RE: Oi l filter wrench - 1/2/2008 6:42:31 PM

Derrel H Green

Posts: 20
Joined: 11/21/2007
Status: offline

Best to send away for this one:

http://www.monstronix.com/asshy8815-p-331266.html

Arrived here in So Cal the next day. No shipping charges either.

Works very well for me, as I couldn't tighten mine enough by hand that it
wouldn't leak or seep ever so slightly just enough to spot the garage floor.
Seems I can't get mine to 18 foot-pounds with my bare hands!

(in reply to madindian1)

Post #: 3

RE: Oi l filter wrench - 1/11/2008 8:27:15 AM

charliez

Posts: 14
Joined: 10/9/2007
Status: offline

Once you get a wrench to fit, make sure you always get the same brand of oil filer. One wrench may not fit all brands.

(in reply to Derrel H Green)

Post #: 4

Oil filter wrench fitment? - 1/11/2008 8:57:48 AM

Derrel H Green

Posts: 20
Joined: 11/21/2007
Status: offline

The wrench I mentioned above (Ass. 8815) fits the late model Sonatas and the Azeras and
will most likely work on the new Genesis should you be so fortunate to be able to acquire one.

(in reply to charliez)

Post #: 5

RE: Oi l filter wrench - 2/15/2008 7:39:05 PM

atcovan

Posts: 9
Joined: 2/15/2008
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Derrel H Green

Best to send away for this one:

http://www.monstronix.com/asshy8815-p-331266.html

Arrived here in So Cal the next day. No shipping charges either.

Works very well for me, as I couldn't tighten mine enough by hand that it
wouldn't leak or seep ever so slightly just enough to spot the garage floor.
Seems I can't get mine to 18 foot-pounds with my bare hands!

These guys are great! I ordered mine yesterday and it arrived this morning. Just a couple bucks more than those on eBay, but worth it.

(in reply to Derrel H Green)

Post #: 6

RE: Oi l filter wrench - 2/15/2008 7:42:23 PM

atcovan

Posts: 9
Joined: 2/15/2008
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: charliez

Once you get a wrench to fit, make sure you always get the same brand of oil filer. One wrench may not fit all brands.

This particular application has to do with the cartridge filter as used on the '06 and up cars. The plastic cap is what we need the wrench for, not the filter.

(in reply to charliez)

Post #: 7

RE: Oi l filter wrench - 2/18/2008 11:27:36 PM

Gary in Sandy Eggo

Posts: 8
Joined: 2/18/2008
Status: offline

You really don't need a wrench to remove and replace the oil filter housing cap. It's easily accomplished by hand. The key to proper cap installation is to ensure ALL o-rings are lubricated, and that the smooth upper inner surface of the housing is also well oiled before screwing the cap (and filter) back on. The following is a step-by-step procedure you can use to change your oil and filter.

OK, I just changed the oil and filter in my Azera. It had 4200 miles on it. The oil wasn't all that dirty, but I couldn't wait to get rid of the 5W-20 and get some 10W-30 into it. It runs just slightly quieter with the slightly thicker oil. I'm going to be doing 5K oil changes on the 5's and 10's. The oil I just put in is actually going to go for about 5.8K. I also installed a 1/4 turn drain valve in place of the drain plug to make all future oil changes a snap.

Here's some helpful info for anyone else who wants to change their own.

1. The oil filter housing is accessed from the top of the engine by removing the decorative cover which is held on by 6 bolts/nuts. Facing the engine, the filter housing cover is a domed round plastic cap about 4" in diameter slightly to the right of center.

2. Note carefully that there's a white painted "match" mark somewhere on the more exposed side of the filter housing. When you twist the cap back on, you'll want to make sure you turn it far enough to get those marks to line up again. If your car doesn't have such an alignment mark, make one yourself.

3. There is apparently a special tool for removing the filter cap sold by Hyundai, but I was able to easily twist mine off by hand. Before starting to remove the cap, wrap rags around the housing below the cap to catch any oil that might drip during cartridge lift-out. Also, have a container of some sort handy into which you can lift the cartridge without trailing it across the top of the engine. It is easy to avoid dripping any oil anywhere.

4. Change the filter BEFORE draining the oil out of the pan to enable the oil trapped in the housing to drain into the pan before the pan is emptied.

5. The cap takes several turns to get it off. When you lift it off, the filter will come with it since the filter is mounted on a hollow spindle that's attached to the cap and extends out of the bottom end of the filter a few inches. Once out of the housing, the old filter pulls straight off the spindle.

6. There are four o-rings to concern yourself with. They come with the replacement filter. Two are already installed inside the ends of the filter, there's one about 1/2" in diameter that can be found on the end of the spindle, and a large one the diameter of the cap seals the cap to the housing. The small one on the end of the spindle is sorta hard to get off and replace. Squeeze the o-ring, press it one direction, and get a nail under the loose part to help pry it off. Before putting on the new one, oil it to help it slip over the end of the spindle and back into its groove. The larger one is much easier to replace. Oil it too.

7. Before placing the new cartridge onto the spindle, oil the two o-rings inside the ends of the filter. This will help them slip into place. Push it on as far is it will go.

8. I've read how several people have had problems getting the cap cinched back down properly. That's because they fail to bathe the large o-ring with oil AND the inner surface of the housing where the o-ring will be required to twist/slide into place as the cap is screwed down. Trying to put the cap on with the o-ring and housing inner surface dry will be almost impossible, will probably damage the o-ring, and will most likely leak. Twist the cap/filter assembly down till it bottoms out on the housing, and the white marks are aligned.

8. Once that's done, drain your oil and refill as you would any other car. It holds 6 quarts. Don't forget to remove the rag from around the filter housing before replacing the decorative engine cover.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

(in reply to silverstallion)

Post #: 8