Cold Starting Problem (Full Version)

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Cold Starting Problem


  

claycon -> Cold Starting Problem (4/30/2008 8:10:53 AM)

At night, 2004 Elantra GT w/27,000+ miles occasionally (twice so far this year) will not start after sitting for 8 hours.  The first time, I pushed accelertor to the floor, heard spark and finally started. This last time no spark w/pedal so opened hood and pulled on the throttle linkage twice, Elantra started right up.  Pulling on the linkage was probably coincidence rather than cause and effect, but was the actual sequence.   Last year same occurance, hard cold starting in the morning then progressed to night time.  At that time, I just waited after several cranks until she started.  Hyundai computer diagnosis did not show any faults.  Frustrating.


  

NovaResource -> RE: Cold Starting Problem (5/1/2008 5:54:28 AM)

What "linkage" are you pilling on?


claycon -> RE: Cold Starting Problem (5/8/2008 7:48:29 AM)

Appreciate your reply.  Have since edited my querry to clarify the problem.  Please re-read.  I meant the throttle linkage, but probably not cause and effect.




NovaResource -> RE: Cold Starting Problem (5/8/2008 8:42:07 AM)

Pressing the accelerator pedal when cranking the engine does nothing.  You had to do that with carbureted engines but not with modern fuel injection.  My guess is the fuel pump may be faulty and not maintaining pressure.  Try turning the key to RUN (not start) to allow the electric fuel pump to turn on and build pressure.  Wait about 15-20 seconds and then crank the engine.


claycon -> RE: Cold Starting Problem (5/8/2008 12:08:45 PM)

Again, appreciate your quick reply.  I know what you are saying about the accelerator.  I'm just explaining the sequence of events until the car would start, not a logical chain of events or even a possible solution.  When you are in the dark wanting to move your car in order to chainup the holding lot gate at the high school, you will try what ever it takes to move it.  The starting problem is so infrequent that taking it to the Dealer and having them test-start the car for a week would be impracticable.  Have used your suggestion regarding turning the ignition first to ON and will pass on to the Dealer the possibility of the fuel pump being the culprit when the problem becomes overbearing.  Thanks. 

Regarding my Dealer:  The OEM Kenwood radio's CD player, which I had rarely used since I listen to talk radio, went bad prior to the warranty period (3 years).  Took car into the Dealer regarding the CD, and nobody mentioned the radio warranty period being over.  At the time, I was not aware of it either, only thinking of entire car warranty.  At first, thought Service Rep. #1 was just going to order a new one from Korea and replace it because they left the radio in my car.  Several calls later and another visit to the Dealer, Service Rep. #2 gave me a lame explaination of a wrong work order or bad PO #.  No action and another visit to the Dealer.  This time, they actually removed the radio so had a hole in the dash all winter.  Waited several weeks and called to find out the Dealer passed the radio on to a 3rd Party Technician who used to have his own radio repair shop.  Shortly after, Service Rep. #1 called me at work to ask for a description of the problem.  This was after I volunteered to give technician same info. but Service Rep. didn't think info. necessary.  Again, didn't hear from anyone from December to February.  Called Dealer and Rep #2 asked if the Radio Technician had contacted me?  Said no!  THEN, the Rep. told me the radio was out of warranty and quoted a price to fix the radio.  I just chuckled and asked him to get the radio back and would schedule an appointment to reinstall radio at next oil change.

The moral of the story is they wasted more time & $ than if they had gotten a direct replacement which Service Rep. #1 apparently was trying to do.  Will neverl know for sure, but haven't seen Rep. #1 since.


  

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