FlyRyde
Posts: 2
Joined: 4/12/2006
Status: offline
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Hey, I just saw for the first time that there was some activity over here. Check it out, the brake swap is cake work. I've done it to both my 97s. Just grab the parts you had mentioned, knuckle, rotor, and the calipers are the same, but its easy just to grab the whole thing.
NOW MOST IMPORTANT. Your 1997 brakes are a Captive Rotor Setup. This means that unless you pull out the wheel bearing (pull the hub) there is no way to remove the rotor. Even if you did manage to pull the hub, you'd have to stick it back in there.
So start like this. Pull your front wheels off. You'll need a tuning fork, hammer, 17mm socket, 12mm, and 14mm I think now. You'll find the the first bolt to take out will have a cauter pin holding it in place. Tap out the pin, and loosen the nut. Its actually a ball joint, so you'll have to get that nut off and set aside somewhere safe, then you'll want to make sure you pull the rubber boot down just a bit so you can slide in the fork without the boot ripping. Once you wedge the fork in, hammer that thing like hell. It'll eventually pop off.
Next right above the A arm under the knuckle, there is another nut, this ones tough, but you'll need an open end wrench for this one I think. I think its a 14mm. Once tht nut is off, its hammer time again. More prying on this one though. After its off, you one little bolt to the caliper from the brake line, I just let it drip into a cup, you'll need to refil and bleed the brakes later anyway.
Also there are two 17mm bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, those come out, not necessarily last.
Once its all off, you'll grab your new setup, and just reverse what you've done. Only this time, you can do the work without the rotor on. The only two things that hold the rotor on now are the caliper, and the wheel. Otherwise they just slide right off the studs no prob.
When you're all done, and everything is tightened up and safe, go get an alignment, and you're good to go. I think an average price for the whole job start to finish is about 200 bux.
Another good thing to do is just swap out the stock rotors for nice drilled and slotted rotors with some grippy pads when you do this. You can actually save cash at the junk yard if you dont take the rotors or calipers since you dont NEED them.
Hit me up for help, I'm Chris, you can find parts on my site, http://www.flyryde.com or you can email me to help@FlyRyde.com
Good luck.
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Printable Version
1997 Brake/Hub Swap - 
