Is there any tricks to take this out. They seem to be frozen or maybe I'm missing something.
Tried to bang them out but had no luck.help 1999 tiburonfx

 

i have worked on a newer tibby and they were a bit galded in, so i had to hit them with the hammer to loosen them up, but they werent held in by anything

 

I take it you are changing the front brake rotors? Some of the older models had 4 bolts that held the rotor to the hub. They suck.
You have to press and replace the bearing to replace the rotors. Now on all the other models they have 2 phillips head screws you remove and then pop em off. Now I have seen the rotor get frozen up due to rust. Well ya gotta get some pb penetrating oil, soak it. Walk away for about an hour and then smack that think flush.Not banging the inside of the rotor outwards .That can hurt when it flies off. Just hit the facing of the rotor hard with a good sturty hammer. DO NOT DO THIS ON CARS WITH ABS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You will damage the sensors.

 

Thank you for your help I will try this. But have you herd about anybody using a puller to take them out, they are realy stuck or frozen. I have taken the hole assambly out to be able to soak them realy good but had no luck hammering it out. I have the ones with the 2 screws in the front. It's a good thing that I have a second vehicle to get around while I take care of this problem.


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finally got them separated. It only took a torch and a 2500 presser to get them out. I had to take the hole assambly out so I had room to work with it. Thanks everyone

 

Maybe you guys can help me out. I was putting new wheels/tires onto my gf's 02 Elantra and ran into these screws on the front brakes. Basically, the hub-side surface of the wheel is flat and is hitting the screws. This prevents the wheel from sitting flush against the hub/brakes and it doesn't seem safe - rocking, wobble, vibrations. Are the screws necessary to the brake assembly? I couldn't figure the purpose of the screws and never came across this sort of setup before. The only solution I could think of was using a thin spacer deep enough to clear the screw heads with holes the screws could be in OR machining little depressions to let the wheel clear the screw heads. Thoughts??

Thanks...any help would be MOST appreciated!!

-wYlie



depressions left by the screw heads on the wheels flat surface:


The stock wheels with depressions that are built into the wheel:

 

I am not quite familiar with this situation but I would suggest that if the stock wheels had depressions for the screws then they need to be there. I would mill the new wheels to make a space for them.

 

or trying finding a flatter headed screw to go into the rotors.

 

Are you sure that the originals have it cut in purposfully? Upon further inspection that looks like way to precise a match to be tooled in. Why would they cut the actually phillips part of the screw into the wheel instead of just an indentation? Does anyone else see where I'm coming from? Maybe those occured from pressure alone, from tightening the wheel. If it doesn't make a difference to you, especially since it will be the inside, tighten the hell out of the new wheel and see what happens. It shouldn't damage the wheel.

 

I have come across this problem a few times and here is what I do, first get a drill bit a little larger than the head of the screw and a depth stop for said bit. put the stop on the bit a little further than the head sticks out and just drill holes until the stop touches the rim and you should be all set. I have done this to a few cars now with no problems. Just make sure you use the stop though, my friend once tried to do it without the stop once and drilled right through the rim, lol. Do not overtighten the lug nuts as this could cause a lot of headaches for you.