Hey there, new user, 1st post...Gas gauge issue
Morning all...Quick question and I’m hoping I can find an answer here I’m leasing a brand new 2017 Hyundai Tucson Sport 1.6 with turbo, very happy with it so far, handles great, def has enough power with the turbo.
The issue at hand is as follows. The gas gauge says I have just above a quarter of a tank of gas, and the digital read out displays
66 miles left, which would jive with the gas gauge where it is. I gave the guy a $20 for gas, but after only $3, the nozzle kept clicking off, as it’s supposed to do when it’s full. Yes the engine was off. With the gas cap off, and shaking the car a bit, u can see the gas is to the very top of the tank. Wtf..??..
Can the float in the tank be stuck or gone bad so soon..??...I only have 12,500 miles on her at the moment....Any help would be appreciated....!!....have a great day, my fellow Hyundians...lol...
The issue at hand is as follows. The gas gauge says I have just above a quarter of a tank of gas, and the digital read out displays
66 miles left, which would jive with the gas gauge where it is. I gave the guy a $20 for gas, but after only $3, the nozzle kept clicking off, as it’s supposed to do when it’s full. Yes the engine was off. With the gas cap off, and shaking the car a bit, u can see the gas is to the very top of the tank. Wtf..??..
Can the float in the tank be stuck or gone bad so soon..??...I only have 12,500 miles on her at the moment....Any help would be appreciated....!!....have a great day, my fellow Hyundians...lol...
There is, as I see it , no quick easy solution .
Unless there is a Service Bulletin for this exact problem, checks starting at the fuel tank ( Fuel level sensor) will need to be done. If there is no apparent problem with the readings there, then we move on up to the Instrument control panel.
If at all possible when adding fuel filling more than when the nozzle shuts off is asking for problems. I realize this was a one time occurrence, but exceeding the level when filling can load the charcoal vapor canister with liquid fuel instead of vapor and the problems of charcoal particles getting into the fuel lines becomes a real " Expensive problem to correct".
It might be a good idea to check with the place you obtained the vehicle before you wind up having to pay for something not covered under the leasing agreement.
Unless there is a Service Bulletin for this exact problem, checks starting at the fuel tank ( Fuel level sensor) will need to be done. If there is no apparent problem with the readings there, then we move on up to the Instrument control panel.
If at all possible when adding fuel filling more than when the nozzle shuts off is asking for problems. I realize this was a one time occurrence, but exceeding the level when filling can load the charcoal vapor canister with liquid fuel instead of vapor and the problems of charcoal particles getting into the fuel lines becomes a real " Expensive problem to correct".
It might be a good idea to check with the place you obtained the vehicle before you wind up having to pay for something not covered under the leasing agreement.
Hanky, Appreciate the fast reply, thank u for that. The car is def still covered under the “bumper to bumper” warranty, so it’s not going to cost me a penny...hmmmmm...lets hope not..!!...lol..I got the car in Aug,2017 with a 3 year lease, and as I mentioned, I only have 12,500 miles on her. I’ll call the dealership from where I got it. BUT, and I wanna ask you a question before I do that. I forgot where I read it, but someone had a similar problem with a different car, not a Hyundai, and the guy said that when he called his mechanic to explain the problem, his the mechanic said it sounds like a float or gauge and if so, they would most likely have to drop the gas tank. His mechanic advised him to set the “ trip gauge “ to zero and do about 200 something miles and then bring it in because they’re not going to siphon the gas out and then put it back into the car. Which makes sense to me as that would be a lot of wasted money and gas. On the other hand, I don’t wanna get stuck somewhere out of gas...lol...what’s your thoughts on that...??
It is always appreciated when the operator considers the tech especially when lowering a full tank of gasoline. Most places have fuel holding tanks for just such an occasion and as you know , "Murphy" gets in there and the darn problem always comes up when the tank is full.
You can try what was suggested, but I wouldn't play the lottery on that one because you could run short
.I would check with the place you are considering to do the work, they will give you a better answer as to what they can handle and what not.
You can try what was suggested, but I wouldn't play the lottery on that one because you could run short
.I would check with the place you are considering to do the work, they will give you a better answer as to what they can handle and what not.
On most Hyundai's, the gas tank is accessible through the rear seat.
No need to drop tank. But, still would be nice to reduce amount of fuel.
So, mechanic will have an easier time removing fuel pump and sending unit.
No need to drop tank. But, still would be nice to reduce amount of fuel.
So, mechanic will have an easier time removing fuel pump and sending unit.
Hey guys I wanna thank all of you who responded to my cry for help..!!... weirdest thing. So I’m driving home from Manhattan last night and I figured let me stop at the gas station again and try it one more time. So stop at the station, shut the car off, then open the gas cap. I gave the guy only $5 and figured I’d try it again. The gas went as normal with no problem whatsoever. I went back in and gave him another $10, which also went in without a problem. The gas gauge moved back up, and the digital readout now read like 200 DTE.
SO, all it apparently was, was a vacuum / pressure issue..??!!...I’m no scientist or a mechanic, so I don’t understand how this pressure / vacuum thing works, but the problem seemed to correct itself somehow. I appreciate all your help and for now on I’ll shut the car off and then open the gas cap LOL... I still would like some explanation of how, by not shutting the car off would cause the issue....man I feel stupid..!!..
SO, all it apparently was, was a vacuum / pressure issue..??!!...I’m no scientist or a mechanic, so I don’t understand how this pressure / vacuum thing works, but the problem seemed to correct itself somehow. I appreciate all your help and for now on I’ll shut the car off and then open the gas cap LOL... I still would like some explanation of how, by not shutting the car off would cause the issue....man I feel stupid..!!..
Don't know?
The evaporate emission system is understandable
Gas goes into the gas tank
In order for gas to go in, air must move out
The air goes through the charcoal canister and then through the normally open vent valve
When the engine is running at higher rpm, the normally closed purge valve opens
Then, hydrocarbons, in the charcoal canister, go through the purge valve and into the intake plenum
At some point, the system does a self test, the vent valve closes and the tank is pressurized.
The fuel tank pressure sensor tells the ECM how well the system is holding pressure
If it passes then no CEL. Fail and a DTC is logged into the ECM.
Hard re-fueling is usually due to clogged canister and/or stuck closed vent valve
Fuel can not go into the gas tank if air can not get out.
The evaporate emission system is understandable
Gas goes into the gas tank
In order for gas to go in, air must move out
The air goes through the charcoal canister and then through the normally open vent valve
When the engine is running at higher rpm, the normally closed purge valve opens
Then, hydrocarbons, in the charcoal canister, go through the purge valve and into the intake plenum
At some point, the system does a self test, the vent valve closes and the tank is pressurized.
The fuel tank pressure sensor tells the ECM how well the system is holding pressure
If it passes then no CEL. Fail and a DTC is logged into the ECM.
Hard re-fueling is usually due to clogged canister and/or stuck closed vent valve
Fuel can not go into the gas tank if air can not get out.
Last edited by avisitor; Oct 30, 2018 at 05:46 PM.
Alrighty then “AVisitor”...!!...I read ur reply and appreciate the time u took to “write” that, I just wish I had a higher IQ then 25 to understand what you wrote..!!...lol....
So, basically you were saying, and if I understand you correctly, that the Finnigan Pins which holds together the muffler clamps must have come loose. Unfortunately when those pins come loose, almost 90% of the time it effects the pressurized geothermal couplings, and we all know what a pain in the a** it is to fix that, not to mention the money it costs...
Come on’ seriously thank all u guys for ur help. I def know where to go should I encounter ANY issues with my “Tuck-son”.
(PS) Please remember to change the stale summer/spring air in all the tires with fresh winter air. If you do that, you’ll get many more miles out of the tires....peace...
So, basically you were saying, and if I understand you correctly, that the Finnigan Pins which holds together the muffler clamps must have come loose. Unfortunately when those pins come loose, almost 90% of the time it effects the pressurized geothermal couplings, and we all know what a pain in the a** it is to fix that, not to mention the money it costs...
Come on’ seriously thank all u guys for ur help. I def know where to go should I encounter ANY issues with my “Tuck-son”.
(PS) Please remember to change the stale summer/spring air in all the tires with fresh winter air. If you do that, you’ll get many more miles out of the tires....peace...
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