I just checked the prices of Honda Civic A/C parts on Rock Auto and it seems that they are quite reasonable, about $460 for everything you mentioned. For my daughter's '02 Accent, it was about $500. Good Luck

 

I should clarify I didn't supply/buy the parts for that AC job, he bought all the parts. My $500 was for just my labor (it was an all day job with the custom hoses being a few hours of that), but even at that he had an entirely 100% brand new (actually upgraded) system for about $800 total. Here in Texas, you'll almost certainly get charged about $800-$1000 at a shop for JUST a compressor change with evacuation/recharge.

 

Thank you for the responses.
The previous shop charged $100 for diagnostics (including the useless "smoke" test), and wanted to drop the tank - they said it is 3 hours of work at $95/hour. Based on your replies, I think I made the right decision to decline.
Probably checking the charcoal canister myself would be a good idea, but I thought it was much more difficult (I don't know a lot about cars).
Anyway, took the car to a different, cheaper shop, explained the situation, gave the print-outs of this thread, explaining what I would like to have checked they were not too excited but took the car, worked all day today on it and said they are still checking something, hopefully there will be some news tomorrow.
When this problem appeared I really thought it was something simple (and cheap). Now I am really hoping I will lose only several hundred.

 

I hope that I didn't speak too hastily, but I have removed the gas tank from my daughter's '02 Accent, and it didn't take me very long. I was working on my back with the car on ramps, and I'm a shade-tree mechanic who is 61 and slower now. I didn't know about removing the hoses through the access hole, and I broke a fitting off of the fuel pump. That being said, there was extra time involved with learning how to fix it as I went, plus replacing the fuel pump assembly, I don't think that I spent over 5 hours on it. Pulling off the vent hoses, there was carbon everywhere. I went to a self-service wrecking yard, and pulled 6 canisters off before I found one that did not have carbon falling out of it. I installed it, and a year later, it is showing problems with venting. A new one at the dealer was $187. Looking under my other daughter's Sonata, it doesn't look all that different.

 

Seeing if charcoal is in the lines or loose anywhere is important. On some models, like my 2009 Sonata, dropping the tank is necessary to see why extreme conditions exist like not being able to fill tank with gas, constant clickoffs, etc. Let us not forget the air filter between the charcoal canister and the fill neck. Take it off, and substitute a 1/2 inch copper pipe and go see if you can fill up. If so, the air filter is dead (and expensive to replace). If it keeps clicking off, beyond the two solenoids, dropping the tank when you have little to no gas in it is going to be necessary. Others have posted here how to cut open the canister, fix it up with a gas-proof material that lets air in and keeps pellets out, and is silicon-sealed. That seems like a permanent solution. I would never change out for a new canister as they fail after so many years. I would cut, fix up, and seal, fix up with bungie cords to keep pressure on it for three days, then reinstall and blow out lines. The fuel assembly is yours to open and inspect but should be removed. A small tractor or motorcycle jack, about $99 from tool stores, will be a big help in lowering the tank and lifting it back up.

 

Stinks about it failing again a year later, but if you look back at my pics of the inner material and how I fixed it found earlier in this thread, it's very obvious why all of these fail. Hyundai just uses a very crummy foam material on them, which was a very poor decision on their part IMO. They should have used steel mesh like I did on my repair.

 

Just wanted to give an update on my problem. In the end, the second shop fixed the issue: replaced the charcoal canister ($230) and "canister close valve" ($75), cleaned lines, didn't have to take the gas tank down, 2 h labor at $96/h. Total+tax+fees=$550. So far I refueled once, everything seems to be working well.

 

Is my canister located above where the rear end would be, just behind the fuel tank? 2009 4cyl limited. I am sure it is. Now, how the heck are we supposed to remove that with the transverse frame under it? Also, where would the Canister control valve be located on my model. Can't seem to find any pics or info on the web.

 

The way I see it, having the same car and having asked the same question, is you should remove the rubber hoses off of the filter and see if you see any particulate matter in the form of granular carbon or pellets. If so, then yes you need to change the filter. How? As far as I can see, having tried and having asked here and having asked the local dealership (who would not tell me), two things must be done. First, there is a small plate behind the rear seat. Unscrew it and see the gas tank sending unit and disconnect the lines. Why? Because underneath, you must loosen the straps holding the gas tank and drop it down enough to get the charcoal canister out. If anyone knows differently, please speak up. There is a bolt and clip that holds the canister in place and as I said from my pov this is what I would do and what I almost did.

Then, I took the left rear wheel well cover off and there is that canister valve you were talking about. I changed it anyway because I have high mileage and it was cheap enough. The charcoal canister is not so cheap and if you remove the hose from the valve down to the charcoal canister to blow it out and check for particulate matter, you may or may not have what I have: an eight inch cylinder that is in-line and what it is ... is a $300 air filter. I blew my air line filter out several times but the problem was it was pretty dirty. Rather than spend the money on a new air filter at that price while just simply guessing what was wrong and find out the part was not going to be the solution, I simply removed the in-line filter and replaced it with a same-length piece of half inch copper pipe. It fit perfectly and into the ends of the hoses.

I started the car up and within a few miles, the warning light went out. The code I can't remember, something like P401 but it was the same code as in this thread. So for me it was the in-line air filter, and not the charcoal canister. As I see it, if you change the canister air valve, and if you change the other valve under the hood (I think it is slightly to the right side of the motor and slightly back and affixed on a slide clip), you are probably into $135. The in-line air filter you can take out and replace with a pipe and save yourself $300. So if when you remove the charcoal canister air filter hoses, and you see no charcoal granules falling out, you most likely do not have to change the canister and maybe nothing else except for the in-line air filter. Me-I changed both valves anyway due to high mileage and an interest in doing the simple, affordable parts first. It is two valves/solenoid parts (one on the other side of the filler neck thus the need to remove the left rear wheel well cover to get to the part and one under the hood), and trying the copper pipe. If the condition is resolved, go ahead and knock yourself out and buy the $300 in-line air filter and put it back in instead of the copper pipe bridge.

You can drive around for 25 to 100 miles to see if your light goes out, or you can get someone to reset it but you still have to drive the mileage to see if the light stays out. If so, you are good. If not, you should continue here in the thread. As others have noted, the charcoal canister is what it is and functions unless it is leaking granules from inside (the holding mesh inside the canister has deteriorated, granules are leaking or falling out, and clogging hoses, etc.). For me it was an air blockage. If it comes down it is the leaking canister, it will be bad as I see it there is no way to get the canister out unless you drop the tank some to get it out. Obviously the gas tank is lighter will little to no gas in it. Doing the change in a driveway with the car jacked up and doing it yourself with no hope...well...ugly but the dealer wants about $500 labor and parts for the canister. I do not think anyone really knows which of the four parts to change despite the code that is given. So I say try in-line air filter being replaced with the copper pipe first, then the cartridge valve, then the under the hood solenoid, then if necessary and if you see granules falling out of the hoses...the cartridge. Again, reset your code each time to see...and I am going to put my money on the in-line air filter as the place to start. Blow it out all you want, it has very fine mesh inside and it really gets caked with carbon dust...impossible to clean after 150,000 miles with the original in use all that time. I see no immediate use for it and others have posted it is a California EPA part and not necessary. All I know is my car has pep, the gas goes in without spitting, and the tank fills. Do not overfill your tank! as in up to the gills and click, click, click, and tipping it off for a long trip. That shortens the life of any filter in any car. The thing about the Hyundai system is it stores gas vapors in the canister and then those are supposed to be sucked into the manifold through the hose system and burnt as fuel-great idea is you know where to look and what to replace for parts. It also keeps fumes from building up in the tank. Ever seen anyone open a gas cap and seen it blown across the way? That is because of fume build-up. So the system is necessary, easy enough to trouble-shoot and fix, and even if you change both valves and just replace the in-line air filter with a piece of copper pipe, you are are into far less money than what the dealer will charge. $500 is minimum and usually includes just one part...and later or sooner, the air filter becomes the issue. So do it yourself. If your charcoal canister has to be changed, good luck! That is a pain and about $300 with tax. You will do better buying it online (as with the in-line air filter) as necessary. Other stores do carry the two valves/solenoids. The 2009 having the canister over the gas tank..bad design...but this system absolutely have to parts replaced every 60,000 miles or so. For me the charcoal canister has stayed the original one after 200,000 but the valves are what I have changed three times and just recently for the first time the in-line air filter.

 

Could you please take a pic of the valve under the hood if possible? Not really sure what I am looking for. I use Rock Auto for parts and maybe it is there for sale. Is the filter you are speaking of the 5" x 1.25" tube that is between the canister and the filler port? I can see it from below the car looking up. Is that the one you removed and replaced with tubing?

Thanks so much for your detailed information. I can get the code reset easily at my local parts store.