Yes, that is the air filter. If you put it in park, and put on the brake and jack up one side, you can get under and pull the hose off on each side and see if there are any charcoal granules. If not...you may be golden. Take the filter, and blow it out. You cannot put it back wrong because one side has a flat glide rail that clips onto a tongue clip but be sure to mark with chalk which side goes to the charcoal canister. That is just smart to do. Blow the filter out. You will see lots of dust come out. After that, put it back or leave it off or put the copper tube in-your call...but try to put in some gas from a plastic gas can. If it goes in easy, you are done. If not...well, those vales are it but since it is easy enough to change them, I would say do the under the hood one first and check it for gas going in and if still an issue, take off the left rear tire and remove the wheel cover and change that canister valve. If you DO see charcoal granules, you will have to change the canister or fix it like everyone has (cut open, mesh up, reseal, let the chalk dry, and reuse or use a new one. I will send the picture later this morning of that under the hood valve. Do you have jack stands and a jack if you need to remove your left rear tire-otherwise that wheel cover is very hard to remove.

 

At the beginning of this tread, there is a sticky on how to check the canister valve and that is to disconnect the hose. The same goes for the air filter-disconnect the hose. Then pour gas in to see it it goes in and does not spit back. I have to think that is the problem (gas spitting out. The rear wheel well cover still has to come off to get to the valve. Just have a can of gas around to check how it goes in. As I said, I just changed the valves anyway due to the number of miles and from the dealer invoice at about 60,000 they had changed both valves and canister but not the filter. When I pulled off my canister valve hose, gas still spit back. When I changed the canister valve, gas still spit back. When I changed the solenoid valve under the hood, gas still spit back. When I finally went to the air filter and put the pipe in, gas did not spit out. So you can throw the dice and pull hoses off and put the pipe in for the air filter and maybe next week the code will come back. You know what I mean. Two valves later, the pipe swap, and that should be it. That better be it or the charcoal canister is the only thing left. Fortunately, if you do or do not see charcoal granules spill out, you will know the deal. Also, right next to the canister control valve on the other side of the filler neck, there is a small open plastic air vent. Take that off and blow it out. Some have found spiders nesting in them and it seems true-some spiders like the smell of gas. Why it does not kill them, I do not know. Chances are your air vent piece is clean enough but since you are there you can pull it out of one end of the hose, blast it, and put it back. That plastic air vent is so recognizable and so cheap looking right behind the filler cap that you can't miss it. It looks like it came off of a kid's Transformer toy.

 

I pm'ed you two helpful videos plus parts list

 

Why cant I view the pictures

 

Which pictures (what post #)?

I'm going to say either an ID-10-T error, a PEBCAK error or your browser settings are blocking them. I can see all the pics in all posts.

 

So, I had code 0449. I removed the California emissions filter and replaced it with a 1/2" copper tubing of the same length. I reused the clamps from that filter. Then, I replaced the vapor canister vent solenoid. I had disconnected that tubing run at the charcoal filter and found I was able to fill the tank easy. I had no charcoal falling out. It is easy to see; it is the only tube that goes from the fuel door to the charcoal filter sitting where the rear axle would be.

Thus, on a 2009 Sonata, if you have a check engine light with 0449 and it is hard to fill the tank without it clicking off every few seconds, remove that hose at the charcoal filter box.

Many thanks to dkodgis!!!!!

 

ok, same thing as the rest of you. P0449 code. i had it fixed twice under warranty and the last 30k miles (i have 90k) the light has been on. the last 15k miles i cant fill the tank. just a tiny bit at a time. we do emission testing every 2 years and it is coming up so i have to get this figured out or it will not pass.

i just finished my workshop with a lift, so today i put it up on there. i can clearly see the charcoal cannister on top of the crossmember behind the tank.

i also took off the back drivers tire and then the fender well cover so i can see the solenoid and lines underneath the fill tube.

i included pictures so you can see each of the pieces.

the first thing i saw was the hose from that "emissions filter" to the charcoal filter box was kinked. i took the small filter off and it was very difficult to blow through it. although i have no point of reference so i dont know for sure how much flow there should be but i assume more than what i had.

i took the filter out (the one that i am holding in my hand) and put a piece of 1/2" copper tubing like everyone else said in its place.

my charcoal cannister had no pieces of charcoal or anything else coming out of it.

i put it all back together and reset the ecm with a scanner. the light went out on the dash, and there are no active SEL's on the scanner. of course the code still shows as YELLOW on the scanner and will for 80 miles or so if the code fault doesnt reappear.

the tank was empty in case i was going to have to drop the tank, so i made it to the gas station on fumes and for the first time in a long time i was able to fill up the tank without it clicking off 500 times.

i will see what happens after the 80 miles is up. or if the code comes back.

thanks for all the help.

tom

 

Being able to fill click-free is a good sign. Assuming you changed the kinked hose or straightened it out, the filter you removed ... you can try blowing it out but it you have a lot of miles on it...not going to do anything for you. Having no charcoal falling out...is another good sign. What would be left would be the two solenoids-one behind the gas cap filler (driver rear side, wheel well cover has to come on to get to it), and the one on the engine). I think the gas filler solenoid has to be good else it would not be filling easily. The other solenoid may need to be changed if you get the error code back. Remember the charcoal canister may take 80 miles as you said to get the excess gas fumes out of it and into the engine manifold port through the engine solenoid's operation. Before I got good at diagnosing and fixing these things thanks to everyone's help on the board, I removed that air filter like you did but I left the hose disconnected over a weekend so the gas fume would evap out of the charcoal canister. That hastened the code going away in 15 miles being driven. Remember, air flow and functioning solenoids. Otherwise, pressure builds and fumes in the canister saturate. Fix the problem(s) and the canister still has to unsaturate a bit from the backup of gas fumes. So drive your car and let us know. My car has passed the emissions test without issue with the air canister removed.

 

when you say the code went away in 15 minutes do you mean the CEL on the dash or the code in the scanner?

i cleared the code so the dash CEL is out. it is the ECM internal code that says.....hey, an emission code was cleared so as to alert the emissions checkers. i believe there is a minimum mileaged before that goes away. i am driving with my scanner attached to the obd2 port to find out. i should hit about 80 miles today so will know for sure...

tom

 

Today at about 70 miles the code cleared on the scanner. The dash light had been out all 70 miles

Hope it stays that way

Thanks for all your help

Tom