well you picked the right spot to drill then. that is where all the salt/water will puddle, and by putting the holes there, it will drain everytime you accelerate.

that pop bottle is a good idea too! im gonna have to try that too!

the cheapo guage was OK, but now it is so worn out from 6 techs doing multiple recalls per day that i dont feel that it is completely accurate. plus some of the guys are like me, and would rather replace them so if it 'fits', we can replace it. even if 'fits' means with a little persuasion! and i too know about people who cant read precise measuring equiptment, let alone take care of it. i loaned my $115 dial caliper to a friend, and it came back .012" off, and the lens wont stay on the dial.

when you remove the subframe, you dont have to deal with the springs at all. the struts in these cars have 3 nuts through the upper tower, and a 'wishbone' on the bottom with one through bolt. you leave the nuts on top alone, and remove the one lower through bolt, and let the strut/knuckle/brake assembly hang out of the way. if we had to deal with the coils at all, it would practically double the time


and yes, the MiniDuctor is awesome!! i watched another tech catch a fuel filler tube on fire with the torch one day, and mentioned to the service manager that we needed the miniductor. the next week NAPA dropped it off. it was pretty pricey at around $480 for the basic tool and a couple different wire conductors(?). we also got an additional wire kit with sizes from 5/8" to 1 1/2", plus a few DIY wire coils for odd jobs. that kit itself ran about $125. for me it was well worth the money, although i didnt pay for it! i WILL be buying one for myself as soon as my box is payed off.

the only control arms that we replace are on elantras and tiburons. the did not have drain holes in the bottom, and we have literally had at least a dozen cars towed in with the control arms broken. theyre not fun to get into the shop! sonatas have the large hole in the bottom to access the middle subframe mounts, and that acts as a very good drain hole. ive never seen one rust out.


ive never heard of Corrosion - X, but also i dont do much undercoating out side of work. we use 'Valu-Gard' brand wax, because they must have been the lowest bidder for Hyundai. when i do any type of undercoating outside of work, it is usually on a new, or heavily modified frame, and i always use POR-15. that is by far the best rust proofer available. you can even put it over rust, and watch it stop. doing body work for years before this dealer position, i have used alot of materials over rust, and POR-15 is the only one i will swear by, and use on my own vehicles/projects.

doing the inside of your control arms would be a good idea. just make sure its clean and dry in there before you fill-er-up

and no problem. i like being able to help someone, even if it is just a little info here and there.

 

Sorry about your calipers. Whenever you can't understand why a guy borrows tools, just loan him yours, it will all come clear.
My hobby shop in Hong Kong has unbelieveable prices on measuring tools, search "hobby city".

Neat that you don't have to fight the coil springs. I need to become more familiar with the Hyundai, it is my very favorite car, and I have owned many new ones, many nice ones.

Hey, all you would need for that induction heater is a high freq chopper, and it could work right on the AC line. I was building a weld control like that, and it was handling about 400 times the power, so I know it can be done... Can you tell what frequency it is running, maybe by the "screech", and how much current it drawn, from the label?

If you build one yourself and don't sell them, you are not violating any patent laws...

The Sonatas have a drain hole in the lower arms, good, I will spray my Corrosion-X in there! I have them nicely coated with rust reformer black paint now. I heard of corrosion-X from my R/C Airplane buddies, they dip the electronics so it won't hurt if you crash in the lake. I will look into POR-15, hope I find it locally. The Corrosion-X replaces water, so it doesn't seem to matter if it is wet inside. Seems too good to be true, but we will see.

And you are helping me a lot, I thank you again.

 

Car in the air, cant see no obvious,,, long Snap-On pry bar, crack the right rail just forward of the right control arm mounting, use a 2lb hammer to spank the pry bar..... If it is ate up, it will go right through, bow, hit it a couple more.... OH MY, frame has a hole... always dril the right rear first.. that is 90% of your rejects.

Frame replace (Sonata & XG) :

Inside the cabin, mark the coupling at spool valve shaft (yellow mark on shaft from factory) for re-assembly.

Remove right side fan, toss it on the air box.. remove engine top cover.

At the p/s return tube to hose joint beside radiator, slide the clamp up, and leave hose on tube fo rtime being, and put a pair of needle nose grips on the cooler hose via under/beside the A/C drier.

Disconnect steering pressure hose at pump (2.7) or at the steel line at hose that drops down to the rack (3.5). All done up top

Car up in air.. remove those 2 rear plates. I set mine on the rack arms with the nut and 2 bolts on each plate.

Get the front pipe off, or dump the exhaust, what ever it takes.

Remove the front roll stop bolt & nut (motor mount), leave mount on frame.

Remove the rear roll mount bolt & nut (you is dropping frame with rack and mount)

Both left and right sides, remove the 2 bolts at ball joint to spindle.

Remove the 2 tie rod end nuts, pop the ends out of the spindle

Remove the 2 bolt & nut for strut mounting to the lower arm.

Remove the 2 center frame nuts (hole through control arm)

Remove the sway bar link nuts, plate and rubber bush.

Remove the large bolt at each control arm rear mounting there where you took them 2 plates off

Remove the 2 rear frame bolts, leaving the 2 front bolts in.. We use a shop cart or hydraulic table to bring car down to and set frame on.... then simply reach under ad remove the 2 front bolts.......... lift car up, the rubber hose to p/s return line will slide off.

Wih a second cart sitting there, run the 4 bolts out of the rack mounting, and the 4 bolts for the return tube, flip the return tube toward the spool valve, set it on the cart.

Remove the 4 sway bar bush plate bolts, set that stuff and bar with links attached onto the cart with the rack.

Remove the 2 roll stop mounts.

Remove the 2 bolts at each arm to recover the arm... if they do not come out, I punch off, then punch another flag for "cut time" and have at it.

I can generally recover the 2 arms in no more than 0.3 labor time, had 1 at 0.4.. Had a frame bolt that got bagged for 1.0 I think, body shop fella helped with it, new frame bolted right up, no damage to chassis with removal.

Arms recovered, punch off the "cut time" and start new flag for assemble..

Mount arm via the large bolt first, then roll it into place and start the (2) 12mm bolts, then tighten all. Install sway bar, rack and tube, and the 2 roll mounts.

Dont forget your 4 corner washers and the 2 rubbers for the center mounts.

I aim the frame so the car sits onto those 2 long studs, align the steering shaft, and set frame to car,,, then spin on the nut for the center mount each side, then pick car & frame up off table or cart.

Finish assemble underneath.

Car down, re-attach return cooler hose to the tube, clamp, install fan, and remove your line clamp.

Attach pressure hose, re-install engine cover. Secure coupling to spool shaft and upper steering column. Verify p/s oil level, and test drive.

 

Very impressive, but not for the amateur! Sounds like a well thought out procedure, you must have done many of these.
You had to pull radiator hoses, right?

I feel like a piker, struggling with my recent alternator replacement!

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

 

hrm,, a little different than we do it, but it all ends up the same.

im surprised that you drop the rack down with it. i would think that would add a little time and mess with the lines, and bleeding