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-   -   2000 accent control arm (https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/hyundai-accent-16/2000-accent-control-arm-5679/)

d4rk1c3 01-27-2009 08:42 PM

2000 accent control arm
 
Ive been working on wheel bearing, ball joint, tie rod, and sway bar link front driver side on my 2000 accent, and I've run into a problem. I have the lower control arm ready to come out except one bushing bolt. It is the bolt at the front of the car that is on a horizontal axis (the rear one on the vertical has been removed). I have completely loosened the bolt, but there is no separation between the bolt and the frame. The bushing has relaxed and spread. It apears as though it just needs to be tapped out from the other side, the only problem with this is that the other side is inaccessable since it is in the frame. Any help on this would be very appreciated.

Thanks

jsinton 01-27-2009 09:09 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
[align=left]Looks like once you remove the two bolts, you just beat is with a hammer from the front driving the arm to the rear. It should just fall off.

http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcsd04a.gif

d4rk1c3 01-27-2009 09:20 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
I appreciate the quick response but the issue isn't with the control arm coming out but the bushing bolt referenced as "A" in the diagram provided not coming out of the bushing.

jsinton 01-27-2009 09:27 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
[align=left]I see, that means the inner sleeve of the bushing is rusted to the bolt. Unscrew it until you are sure it's free of the frame. Get a propane torch out and burn the snot out of it till all the rubber is gone. Then beat it out with the hammer. Careful with that torch, don't set the car on fire.

jsinton 01-27-2009 09:28 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
You'll need to press out the old bushing and replace it with a new one. Bushing work sucks sometimes.

jsinton 01-27-2009 09:31 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
Disreguard all that. Get a big hammer and wail on it.

d4rk1c3 01-27-2009 09:32 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
Thanks, I'll keep you posted.

jsinton 01-27-2009 09:36 PM

RE: 2000 accent control arm
 
[align=left]Do you think the nut which is welded to the frame which the bolt threads into has broken away from the frame? A possiblility. You might have to hacksaw the head off the bolt to get the arm off.

Kaao 03-23-2013 11:54 PM

BUMP having the same issue here it seems like the bolt is stuck to the rubber but im worried that the nut has seperated for the frame anyone else removed a Drivers Front Lower Control Arm on this generation of Accent im a 2002.

Almost to the point of taking a set of torches to my frame here to see whats going on or a drill.

Im able to turn the bolt but it doesnt seem to be actually coming out. Its hard though it bounces back like its stuck to the rubber.

Does anyone actually know how this is assembled or has done it before?

Already have a broken control arm here and a bunch of time into this car the last few weeks.

Thanks in advanced.

PS the other nuts is not exposed like many other cars and is in the middle of the tube frame!

oys 03-26-2013 05:55 PM

I have the same exact problem with my 2001 Hyundai Accent right now.

I am replaceing the front lower control arm and the bolt is not rusted to the sleeve because I used a torch to melt away the rubber and can twist the bolt freely and the sleeve doesn't move with the bolt.

It must be that the nut has seperated from the frame right?

Have any of you made any progress and if so I how did you get it off.

If it is the fact that the nut has seperated from the frame what do you do about that?

oys 03-26-2013 05:58 PM

Since you have the most recent post here, have you made any progress? I have the same exact problem.

Kaao 03-28-2013 09:16 PM

A big thumbs down to Hyundai on this part of the frame design!

In my case yes the nut had broken away from the frame, as well as the bolt was completely rusted to the bushing.


You will need a sawzall or torches, a angle grinder, a rotary tool(dremel) w/ reinforced cutting discs, and a welder.

First off take your sawzall or torches, and cut the arm off as close to the bushing as safely possible. remove the rest of the control arm you might have to cut the nut off by the wheel bearing aswell I did. Now using the dremel, cut a inch by in hole in the SIDE of the frame right where u can see a piece of metal folded over and welded on that is where the nut is. Your going to have to cut a hole big enough to get a mig welder in there and weld the nut back onto the frame.

Note let the dremel work it will burn through discs like no tommorow if u push hard.

if this does not get the bolt out you will have to then using the dremel cut where the control arm goes around the bolt on both sides, and remove it. Then use an angle grinder and carefully rotate the bolt around and cut it without cutting the frame. and buy another bolt and washer (GET A RATED ONE DONT BE CRAZY!)

It took me 3 days to get it out and put the new one on its not a job for the faint hearted and is extremely frustrating.

Dont forget to weld a plate back over the hole in the frame when your done!

And just so u know I offer no warranty for this, BEST OF LUCK!

Caveman25 12-24-2013 11:05 AM


Originally Posted by Kaao (Post 45673)
BUMP having the same issue here it seems like the bolt is stuck to the rubber but im worried that the nut has seperated for the frame anyone else removed a Drivers Front Lower Control Arm on this generation of Accent im a 2002.

Almost to the point of taking a set of torches to my frame here to see whats going on or a drill.

Im able to turn the bolt but it doesnt seem to be actually coming out. Its hard though it bounces back like its stuck to the rubber.

Does anyone actually know how this is assembled or has done it before?

Already have a broken control arm here and a bunch of time into this car the last few weeks.

Thanks in advanced.

PS the other nuts is not exposed like many other cars and is in the middle of the tube frame!

Having same exact problem on my 2001 accent drivers side. Did you get the bolt out or did you have to cut into the subframe and weld the nut back?


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