2001 runs like a bag of poo. HELP!
 

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I recently got a 2001 X reg 1.3i Hyundai Accent which is a manual. It had failed its test on emissions but when I got it, it wasn't running well at all. It starts and idles fine but as soon as I touch the accelerator or actually drive somewhere, the revs actually die down. My first thought was as it had been stood a couple of weeks when I got it, maybe it just needed booting a bit and just some high revs but this didn't make a difference. I have just changed the spark plugs, HT leads, and fuel filter and added some reddex but it hasn't changed anything. It does drive but not well; in my opinion, it's not getting enough fuel but this is my first Hyundai and I don't know where to start. Is there an inline fuel filter that could be blocked or (I want to say blocked jets on the carb but it wont have a carb with it being injection will it). The previous owner put it in for its test the day he went to Afghanistan for his wife and was suprised it failed so I assume it can't have been running as bad as this before though the problem with the running and the emissions are probably connected?

This is a 9 year old car with around 51,000 miles on it and the condition is pretty good all round (no rust or dents I can see) so it would be a shame to break or scrap it but at the same time, I haven't got a lot of money to throw at this. I may get it running to find that it still fails its emissions due to the cat or lamda sensor or something or may spend loads of money changing things to find the engine's just f****d. :eek::eek: In the month I've had it parked up, someone's smashed the windscreen too so I'm losing heart in it a bit really. Is there anything cheap and easy I could try?

Thanks in advance for your advice. Garf :)

No one got any ideas? :(:(:(:confused:

Hey rizzo rat, why not you take at the battery termial for a start I mean Positive cable, and leave it disconnet for about 15 min,and reconnect them again,that give car a reset on the computer.may be it just something simple.
hope this will help before you start nibbling.

Hi Kim, the battery was actually stolen! When I did those bits yesterday, I put the battery from my Mitsubishi on so for the last few weeks it has had no battery on at all. Would that have reset it or does it need to have the negative terminal connected. Next time, I might try putting the battery on for 15 mins, take off the pos terminal for 15 mins and see if that makes a difference when I connect it back up but not too optimistic to be honest. I don't know why they stole the battery; they smashed the windscreen on another of my cars at the same time but didn't take that battery. :confused::confused::mad::mad:

Thanks for the info though anyway, Garf

First thing I'd check was the throttle position sensor. Next would be to make sure all the vacuum lines are connected correctly and not broken or missing.

Thanks for that. Can you tell thick people like myself where this sensor is, what it looks like and how to check it please?
Sorry to seem ignorant but the only cars I've really done any work on are my Beetles and they're a lot simpler!

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
The TP Sensor is a rotating type variable resistor that rotates with the throttle body's throttle shaft to sense the throttle valve angle. As the throttle shaft rotates, the throttle angle of the TP Sensor changes and the ECM detects the throttle valve opening based on the TPS output voltage.
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CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS
1.The TPS signal is important for the control of the automatic transaxle. Shift shock and other trouble may occur if the sensor is faulty.
2.If the idle condition or acceleration is abnormal, check the TPS connector. (When the TPS connector is not connected properly, the current data on HI-SCAN can show that the idle state remains off, although the accelerater pedal is released. This results in the improper idle or acceleration.)
3.Input voltage from throttle position sensor is below 0.1V or above 4.7V when ignition switch is turned on.

USING VOLTMETER
Check throttle position sensor output voltage (TP Sensor side connector No.1 or ECM harness side connector No.16)
At idle rpm = 0.25 ~ 0.8V
Wide open throttle = 4.0 ~ 4.8V


HARNESS INSPECTION PROCEDURES
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SENSOR INSPECTION
1.Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector.
2.Measure the resistance between terminals 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 3 (sensor power).
0.7 ~ 3.0 kΩ
3.Connect an analog ohmmeter between terminals 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 1 (sensor output).
4.Operate the throttle valve slowly from the idle position to the full open position, and check that the resistance changes smoothly in proportion with the throttle valve opening angle.
5.If the resistance is out of specification, or fails to change smoothly, replace the throttle position sensor.
Tightening torque
Throttle position sensor :
1.5 ~ 2.5 Nm (15 ~ 25 kg·cm, 1.1 ~ 1.8 lb·ft)
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Hi Rizo, Dont know why they smash you windscreen? I will say they must dont like you for sure.