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Hyundai Accent difficult start

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2018, 09:26 PM
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Default Hyundai Accent difficult start

Hi,
Has anybody experienced anything like this? My 2012 Hyundai Accent (1.6 GDI, aut. trans.) is difficult to start. There is a clicking sound and after that it cranks and at that point seemingly starts easily. I made a video about the issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTBS...ature=youtu.be

Some more details:
- Battery is new, terminals are clean (voltage of battery 12.6V, voltage when running 14.2V)
- Start relay (IG1) is good (switched with another one, same issue)
- The issues comes with cold start and after running for a while as well, there is no difference.
- The problem is intermittent, sometimes no clicking sound at all.

Thank for any ideas!
 
  #2  
Old 12-02-2018, 07:12 AM
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You seem to focus on the starter. When I watched and listened to your video I immediately thought there is an air/fuel mixture problem. I don't have experience with GDI engines. However I read on the interwebs that the intake valves build up a lot of carbon because they don't get cleaned by fuel as port fuel injected engines do.

Check the spark plugs. Have the valves inspected through the intake using an endoscope. Use a fuel injector cleaner. Have the fuel pressure checked.
 

Last edited by allegretto; 12-02-2018 at 07:16 AM.
  #3  
Old 12-02-2018, 08:34 AM
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It seems to be related to the starter.
Problem occurs before engine cranks
So, would clean up terminals on starter.
If that still doesn't clear issue then starter is suspect
Meaning if it isn't corrosion on the starter terminals then it may be the brushes in the starter

Good luck and keep us updated on your progress
 
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Old 12-05-2018, 04:17 PM
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Questions always questions !

Is this the reason you replaced the battery, clicking problem?
What I believe is happening is; there is insufficient power being supplied to the starter and the minute a load is put on the system , power from the battery to the starter drops below the amount to hold the solenoid engaged and the solenoid is dropping out and when it drops out the power is available again and the cycle repeats itself.
Sometimes I have found a battery to be questionable in spite of it being "new". One way you can confirm this is to connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and watch what reading you get when attempting to start the engine. If it goes below 9.6 volts , could be defective battery, excessive starter draw pulling too much power from the system.Let us know what you found, thanks.
Being so long winded I forgot to mention if the voltage reading doesn't go down much at all , could be due to hi resistance in starter system as "visitor" mentioned so we'll wait and see what results you get after the checks.
 

Last edited by hanky; 12-05-2018 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
Questions always questions !

Is this the reason you replaced the battery, clicking problem?
What I believe is happening is; there is insufficient power being supplied to the starter and the minute a load is put on the system , power from the battery to the starter drops below the amount to hold the solenoid engaged and the solenoid is dropping out and when it drops out the power is available again and the cycle repeats itself.
Sometimes I have found a battery to be questionable in spite of it being "new". One way you can confirm this is to connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and watch what reading you get when attempting to start the engine. If it goes below 9.6 volts , could be defective battery, excessive starter draw pulling too much power from the system.Let us know what you found, thanks.
Being so long winded I forgot to mention if the voltage reading doesn't go down much at all , could be due to hi resistance in starter system as "visitor" mentioned so we'll wait and see what results you get after the checks.
Thank you for all the tips and possible solutions you provided so far, very much appreciated!
I measured the voltage, and it does not really drop when I turn the key (maybe 0.01 V). The battery voltage seems a little low at 12.2V but the car does the same with the original battery that is 12.7 V (the one that I replaced). I noticed a smell (like overheated metal+grease kind of smell) in the engine bay after trying to start the car for 15+ seconds. I am positive that it is coming from under the intake manifold where the starter sits, so I stopped forcing it. Something tells me that the starter is stuck somehow, but I cannot explain the solenoid's behavior. Do you have any other idea besides the starter? As much as I can see cables and connections are clean and tight.

Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 12-06-2018, 06:39 AM
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At this point I would take the starter out and have it tested at a parts store.
 
  #7  
Old 12-06-2018, 07:56 AM
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The fact that you can smell something overheating is telling you it is pulling more current than it should and by this time will need to be replaced. I completely agree with removing the starter, however, depending on mileage, use, if never replaced before , and year of vehicle, if you are going to go through the trouble to remove it, just bite the bullet and replace it doing the job once. Some of them can be a real bear to change.Pulling it and having it tested is good advice,,but still would not put back in a starter with limited time .

There is always he hidden possibility of why the starter became jammed if that is the case. Again, as "visitor" stated it could be an internal problem within the starter itself.

If the engine was seized the starter should just engage the flywheel and grunt and just get hot. These are some of the things we don't know at this time.
 
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
The fact that you can smell something overheating is telling you it is pulling more current than it should and by this time will need to be replaced. I completely agree with removing the starter, however, depending on mileage, use, if never replaced before , and year of vehicle, if you are going to go through the trouble to remove it, just bite the bullet and replace it doing the job once. Some of them can be a real bear to change.Pulling it and having it tested is good advice,,but still would not put back in a starter with limited time .

There is always he hidden possibility of why the starter became jammed if that is the case. Again, as "visitor" stated it could be an internal problem within the starter itself.

If the engine was seized the starter should just engage the flywheel and grunt and just get hot. These are some of the things we don't know at this time.
Unfortunately I replaced the starter with a brand ew one today, and the issue is the same. In the process, I checked the wiring fro the battery to the starter and I did not find anzthing suspicious. The terminals on the old starter were not corroded either. I checked the old starter and it does not seem jammed. I starter switching fuses IG1 and IG2 with other fuses that are the same, the issue is the same. At this point, I am out of ideas. Please share if you have any.

Thanks
 
  #9  
Old 12-07-2018, 04:30 PM
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Sometimes cables corrode internally under the cover of the insulation.
 
  #10  
Old 12-08-2018, 12:00 AM
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Gonna need to do voltage drop test to find the offending part
 


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