2001 Hyundai Accent 1.5L SOHC, Manual tranny.

I direct this question to the National Service Manager of Hyundai USA, or other experts. The dealership will not give me the time of day...they will not allow me to speak to any knowledgeable person.

The car overheated and I believe the ECM ( ECU /ignition computer) is self-disabled. Car cranks but won't start, I have checked everything else possible.
Car has fuel / spark / compression, crank and cam sensors have been swapped, etc...all the usual stuff.

QUESTION: "IS" there an analyzer which plugs directly into the ECM (not into the car)? An analyzer which will test the condition of the unit, and possibly reset the operation of that ECM unit to work again?

The car is in a bad place, and it is impractical to tow it to the dealership (and very expensive). I need to see if the ECM can be reset so that the car can be moved, without spending a fortune on towing.

I have seen these type analyzers before...I know that these devices ARE available. (the mechanics at the dealership "should" have one). But being that I CANNOT communicate with a knowledgeable person at the dealership (I am not allowed to ask technical questions)....
A. I need a concise answer.
B. I need the name of the person at the dealership that I can speak to, directly ---without being deflected by a "service adviser," who obviously knows nothing about it.
(getting pretty frustrated because I think there is a solution, and I am being prevented from finding it)

I live in San Luis Obispo, CA. and I can go to the dealership (Rancho Grande Motors) or I can go to the Hyundai Dealer in Santa Maria CA. which is close by.

Please help me find the right person who could possibly help me solve the problem. Yes I do have money, and will PAY you to help me.

Thanks again, Michael Friedlander

 

Hi Michael,
Not having actually tested or rebuilt any ECM s The only tool I am aware of is a quality scan tool.
I have never heard of any type overheat condition affecting an ECM, but there can always be a first time.

You state that you have fuel, spark and compression, but I think you left out a critical function, Timing !
You had to have some codes, if so, do you remember what they were ? Possibly a scope check for cam/crank correlation might reveal if there is a timing problem and if so how bad.
We all sooner or later come across a puzzle and many times it is something simple and basic that we overlook while looking for something that might not even be there.
What if you shared some of the particulars of just what happened and what you found and did ?
Never be too proud to ask for help, we have all been there at one time or another.
There are some pretty savvy folks on this forum, One of them just might have the answer or at least steer you where you might have overlooked.

 

No codes are stored.

Without ECM there is no timing....
Yes I did check cam/crank alignment of timing marks. I swapped the crank and cam sensors with known working sensors.
The spark is there on all 4 coils, there is fuel pressure, plenty.
The plugs and wires are new. I also swapped out the temperature sensor and MAF.
I checked under the valve cover and could not find anything messed up, I was looking for anything damaged.
I plugged in different exhaust O2 sensors also...

I do have spare parts, because I changed them due to age (220000 miles). But when I removed the spare parts the car was running.
And after I installed new parts, the car was running. And kept running for quite some time.
I have changed the timing belt 2 times. And it ran after I changed it. (due to mileage)

I am the only person who has worked on this car, since it had 22,000 miles on it when I bought it.

Well---the car has been very reliable for many years. It has been the most reliable car I have ever owned.
I checked using the manual: all power and ground connections to the ECM, I carefully checked all the relays and fuses.
(I am an electronics technician and I used test equipment)

I have read that when a Hyundai overheats, the ECM may disable itself. That's why I want to diagnose the ECM - because all tests showed normal.

 

Can you verify for example, that the ECM is firing the injectors and coils at the proper times?
What if you posted the parameters you obtained in your tests so we could all get a look at them, something has to be missing.
If the ECM shuts down what could be missing that at this time that would prevent the engine from firing up? That might be where something may be getting overlooked.. Do you have access to a good scan tool that would provide those parameters? Have to go to a refresher class today will not be able to reply until this eve. Stay cool !

 

Can you verify for example, that the ECM is firing the injectors and coils at the proper times?

Of course not, that's why you need an ECM test. If the ECM isn't working properly, there is no timing.
(the ECM logic is going to be proprietary)
Yeah I can see if any codes pop up while I'm cranking the engine, but no codes are stored at the moment.

There must be an ECM tester...how do you think these guys adjust the timing / fuel mix etc...? It's in the software programming. If you have the interface, all that stuff can be tested and adjusted.

 

You have to be kidding !
They are not going to make that info available.
Also the techs at the dealership probably don't even get involved in that part.
That's left to the manufacturer's engineers.
If you are sure the problem is with the ECM, why don't you bite the bullet and get another one , get the vehicle running and after that trouble shoot the original ECM if that is what you want to do.?

 

I did get some info by cranking the engine in Live Data:
Fuel System 1: OL
Calc Load: 3.5
ECT F(degrees) 75-78
STFT B1%: 0
LTFT B1 %: 0
Engine RPM: 233 - 215
Vehicle Speed: 0 (I might have guessed that one by myself)
Spark Advance 2: (degrees)
IAT F (degrees): 86-95
MAF: 0
TPS % 0
O2 B1 S1 (V): .445
STFT B1 S1 %: 0
O2 S B1 S2: (V): .435
STFT B1 S2 %: N/A
OBD2 Setup
O2 Sensor Test:
O2SB1S1: .430 V
O2SB1S2: .580V
Min Limit (none)
Max Limit (none)
Non Continuous Tests:
Test ID $01 No Values
Test ID $05 No Values
Test ID $09 No Values
Available Modules: $11 (ISO 9141)

That's all I can get so far.
Do you think the O2 sensors are so far apart, it prevents the engine from starting? That's what I'm seeing and wondering.
I think the O2 is supposed to be matched (?)

 

A factory ECM is like $1100...

 

You have no MAF or TPS info.
A 5 volt veh ref voltage coming out of the ECM.
It should be avail to both MAF & TPS.doesn't appear to be there
O2 volts not always matched.
When the engine is cold,& has not been run, IAT and ECT should be almost the same.
I also question the fuel system "0"
Do you hear the fuel pump run for the usual 2 seconds when you first turn the key on ? If you don't, I would get into that and determine why not.
As you know the crank signal keeps the fuel pump running when cranking and running. The crank sig may be there , but do we know if the fuel pump is actually running at least for the 2 seconds?

 

I also question the fuel system "0"

Fuel system is OL = open loop. The fuel on start is not controlled by the O2 sensors.
After start should read : "CL." Closed loop, when the fuel is controlled by O2 sensors.

You have no MAF or TPS info.
A 5 volt veh ref voltage coming out of the ECM.
It should be avail to both MAF & TPS.doesn't appear to be there.

No it isn't, will have to investigate why.