1998 Hyandai Accent, 4 Door, 3 speed Auto Trans. w/computer controlled Distributor
DoM: 5-20-1997 (called/classified as an early 1998)
VIN- KMHVF24N9WU438325
91.2 CID or 1495 cc or 1.5 Litre
12 valve 4 cyl. (4 cyl. inline OHC)
Mileage now at: 163,446.2

Problems may have started Sunday 4-23-2017 driving home about 1 PM, about a quarter mile before turning off highway. Engine seemed to all of a sudden run rough. I looked at dash, the Check Engine light was on. I wondered if it was about to die, but it did not. Turned & went about a 10th of a mile to our gate. Unlocked gate & came in, then drove on to house. Seemed to be slightly rough, not as initial moment. Killed it, cranked up right away. So I figured I would look at it later, as it is my Mom's car & she is not driving currently. So we had been using it once or twice a week. [I have a Geo Metro. But the Metro coughed up on Friday 28th a few days later, so I had to start using Accent while working on Metro.]

It was within the next few days of Friday 28th (when Metro broke down), Check Engine light was either on, or it would come & go. But then it would not fire on up when cranking, in the morning (cold start). [I wondered as it seemed similar to my Metro (fuel problem). I was not sure if water was in fuel, or fuel delivery, as to Metro, but I knew it seemed to be fuel starvation. I had to wonder if I had gotten bad gas in both vehicles, as I fueled up at the same place within a day or two. I had gotten a can of Valvoline Fast Starting fluid from O'Reilly to test my Metro. It would fire up, then die out, after ether was utilized or dissipated.]

So I shot a spurt of ether into hard plastic Tee (not the one with MAF) by loosening clamp on the right side just before intake & facing can & spray towards intake. The Accent fired up when I cranked it. Once warm or slightly warm, the Accent cranks up immediately, with no problems. However, I still sense it may still be running slightly rougher than before the Sunday incident. However, when cold, say 2 to 4 hours, 5 at the very most, it will not fire on up. It cranks strong, but just will not finish up to run. I decided perhaps plugs could be the issue, so put in a set of Bosch Platinum (#6702) in on 5-24-2017 (they were out of my preferred Double Platinum or Platimum Plus). Previous Plugs were Bosch #8100 Double Platinum put in at 12-17-2016. I do not recall if it made a difference, but I think it did not. I still had to use a spurt of ether for each cold crank up in order to get the motor running. And other than that, car is running fine (except that it may still be running slightly rough).

I almost want to say, when the Check Engine light comes on, it may go off when I make a hard left turn. That is a theory, but not totally definite to conclude. It comes & goes. Sometimes it may come on when I first crank it, but sometimes it will come on while driving. O'Reilly used the Bosch scanner & pulled up two codes.

I changed plugs again Tuesday PM (7-11-2017)- NGK 2382 (BKR5ES-11), just to see if that might have been problem, as the past week & a half, it has been tougher to fire on up (not sure if it might be related to the higher heat or higher humidy & heat index). But it did not fire on up. I did not pursue further, as I had the Metro running again late Sature afternoon (7-8-2017).

We did get two codes the other day (a few weeks back) at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. One was Crankshaft Position Sensor Malfunction (# P0355). O'Reilly showed non-stock. Not sure where it goes, what it controls, or if any other stores have one. Cost was $85.99. The other was # P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Low Output. My Uncle just noted (a few minutes ago) he did not think it would be the Crankshaft Position Sensor, as I was able to get engine to run with just a shot of ether. And I doubt if the other sensor would be related to my problem.

[My Metro went down once again due to the fuel issue Thursday PM (3rd time) after getting gas on my way home.] So I was going to take the Accent Friday morning (7-14-2017) to work. However, on the first shot of ether, I almost had it running. But as I noted, the past week to 1.5 weeks, it seems to be getting harder & harder to fire it on up. I tried off & on for 30 minutes & gave up. I had to get another ride by my Daughter.

One other thing I have noted, is that shortly after (in the first week or so), of the problem, when I crank & try to get it running, is that when you stop & turn the key to Off, it may still be cranking but disengages the starter a few seconds later. This could point the suspect as being in the ignition switch, which I assume is the traffic cop of the cranking electronics setup.

I figured it might be something related to fuel delivery when cold, such as the choke not operating properly. With the extra shot of ether, that may supercede it. But on the other hand, it may be a problem created by a faulty ignition switch. Or could it be the Crankshaft Position (or Angle) Sensor causing the cranking problems?

Anybody else have a similar problem, and what the cause or remedy might be?

Appreciate it!
Lynn

NOTE: I have these Hyandai Accent manuals---
Haynes #43015 Excel/Accent 1986-1998
Chilton #32012 Hyandai Coupes, Sedans, Accent, etc.
car owners manuals

 

Accent 1998
Crank, no start
If the engine starts up when fuel is sprayed into the in-take
Then it probably is a fuel system issue

The crank position sensor sends a signal to the ECU (engine control unit)
The ECU uses it to determine the position of the cylinders to figure out when to fire the spark plugs and injectors
If failing then it can cause rough idle and/or no starts
Can you have a faulty crank sensor if you can start the engine with starter fluid?
Yes, the signal from the crank sensor is weak, sometimes it will work when the rpm picks up

Sometimes after a fill up, a car can be hard to start due to the Evap system.
This doesn't mean have this issue. But just something to be aware about.
Maybe try cleaning the IAC (if your car has one), throttle plate, in-take plenum
And beware of the purge control valve and/or vent valve.

 

My apologies. I wrote a Thank You note & that we will check these things Saturday afternoon & Sunday. I must have fell asleep at the keyboard before posting it. Special Thanks for your details on the Crankshaft Position Sensor (noted as CKP in the Chilton manual).

Lynn aka "Catfish"

 

If you need a crankshaft position sensor then try checking RockAuto.com
Click on Hyunudai, then year of vehicle, then model of vehicle, then type of engine
(dual over head cam or single) DOHC OR SOHC, then ignition and then crankshaft position sensor
Usually the prices are good.
Hope that helps.

The only real way to test the sensors is to use an oscilloscope.
Unfortunately not all of us have one.

If you decide to change it then it should be located on the front driver's side of the engine.
Near the flywheel. Not sure about 1998 Accent.

Here are some videos that might help



good luck

 

Had to go into work today. These 100 F days will wear you out. Once it hits 98 F, the fans just blow hot air. I did get to glimpse in the two manuals I have on the 98 Accent. Haynes has nothing that I could ever find. Chilton did & had a little info. It noted it could be flywheel Or head type (as to mounting area). I think I saw something on the side of the head, but won't be sure until I look closer on Sunday. I appreciate the extra follow-up info. My Uncle is an electric/electronic expert & lives on the property here. Last weekend I was working on my Metro. I am sure he has the needed test equipment you noted. He checked out some of the fuel relays (on the Metro) to see if they were working OK. One was bad, so I replaced it. But still the fuel pump was not working. His next thought was the computer (ECM) being the next suspect, and he just remembered he had gotten one (when he had the Metro), but never put it on. He found it in our shop in less than a minute. I replaced it & had the Metro back on the road about 10 PM last Sunday night. Then attention turned to getting the Accent running also.

 

That is good news on the Metro.
Hope you get the Accent up and running soon.

Good Luck

 

"Brief"

In case you missed it, I ran into a problem with the screw/bolt that holds the CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) in which that ordeal is detailed in that thread on the forum.

Due to so many things going on here, I had started jotting down the details, but not finished yet. I decided I better at least let everyone know that the 1998 Accent is running once again. I fired it up after putting it all back together. It was not that I had a lot to put back together, but after working in the heat each day, then coming home & having to get back out in it, kinda totally zaps your energy.

As of just before Noon Saturday (Aug 12th), I had it back together & fired it right up. I took it for a test drive about 3 or so miles down the road & back. We drove it Sunday to town, around, then back home (about 13, 10 to 15, then 13 miles) & no further problems.

The reason I want to share the details, is due to the problems & oddities of this ordeal. This way, maybe you will know what to shoot straight for, as well as know what to do should you hit the bumps along the repair path as I did. So bear with me for a few days & I will get that all together.

Special Thanks goes to "avisitor" for the assistance, advice, and encouragement. I have never played with sensors before. I am more of a mechanical type guy.

Example: I had a 1972 Chevy 1/2 ton P/U with a Holley 650 spread bore w/mechanical linkage, when you pressed the gas, it was immediate, not like the vaccuum type. I had a B&M TransPack Kit in the Auto Trans. When you shifted gears, it shifted to any gear, any time, regardless. That includes Reverse at 45 MPH (that's another story). In drive, it would shift to 2nd at 45 MPH & rip the tires, into 3rd at 85 & chirp the tires. In other words, no computers, no sensors running the vehicle. You were in control.

Currently, I just replaced the clutch (disc & pressure plate), throwout bearing & pilot bearing on my 1990 Geo Metro around July 4th. I managed to put off anything connected to CV joints until that.