2008 Hyundai Elantra Gls. Clutch Issues.
#1
08-21-2018, 04:42 PM
2008 Hyundai Elantra Gls. Clutch Issues.
Hey fellow Hyundai enthusiasts,
okay, so I’m new to this forum, in-fact, I’ve jever used or posted into any other forum in my life until this one, so if I’m posting in the wrong section or doing something wrong, chew my a** out and I’ll fix the mistake and learn from it. Now, on to the actual issue!
My clutch basically blew out, and my brother had been driving it, apparently he had pressed extremely hard on the clutch multiple times wondering why it was stuck and won’t go down to the floor as it used to. (According to my mechanic, he had done significant damage to the firewall by bending it, not sure how bad exactly but bad enough to need replacing, also he destroyed the slave Salinger by putting so much pressure into it) So, the entire clutch was replaced, all new pets except I believe the flywheel was just resurfaced, after finishing, mechanic said car still wouldn’t go into gear, realized due to the fire wall being bent, it was significant enough to where he said he needed to “jerry rig” and had more slack to the metal rod connecting the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder. After doing that the vehIcle ran perfect for a year and a half until just recently. Older brother was driving it, he said just before the big issues, the clutch started to feel funny, think he said kind of spungy, then the car wouldn’t shift into any gear or even downshift and think he said it even stayed down to the floor for a bit. Said he got to the get off the freeway by staying in the gear he was in and go to a gas station. Once he pulled in the vehicle
of course stalled. He said he was able to start the vehicle and out it into gear and drive it to a safe location to park. After parking the vehicle now wouldn’t even turn over.
So hears what I found upon closer inspection after she got towed home.
(1) When the clutch pedal his pushed in the entire assembly so to speak moves back essentially showing or attesting to the fact that the fire wall is indeed bent and is rather weakening up or is getting way worse.
(2) Die to the entire assembly moving back just a slight bit, the clutch does not engage the safety switch,thus reason why the vehicle wouldn’t start, so I thought, well shut that’s my problem, right?
(3) After getting her started, right off the bad after starting it heard a few weird noises one sounded like slight grinding other sounded eh idk what it sounded like, but after 3 seconds disappeared. So, I’m sitting in neutral and am about to go drive this bad boy, I out the clutch all the way down ready to put the car into first, but it won’t go
not first gear, it won’t even go
into any gear I try putting it into just to see if any of them are at least free, so I decided screw it let’s out get into reverse, believes I was able to get her into reverse because it seemed to have popped hard into the gear making some type of noise I can’t recall, car julted a bit and walked out. Prior to me even starting the vehicle at all, I was able to shift the stick into any gear with it without clutch pressed in, after starting it and after that little issue,now I cannot out the stick into a gear while engine is off like I had been able to just prior to starting her up.
Also, my break fluid reservoir seems to be full, but the color seemed to be darker than normal perhaps alerting to a faulty Master cylinder? I don’t see any leaking around the slave cylinder, however the little fork the comes out of the engine thy connects to the space cylinder seems to have some
diatinct scrapes/scratches on both sides of it (sortakinda deeper than a normal scratch) I don’t believe they were there prior to any of these issues currently happening, perhaps something that caused that can point to what’s causing my issYes now?
Im ata loss guys new clutch barely a year and a half old. I know it’s not my driving I’ve been driving manual vehicles all my life and never had any major issues like this. I’m out of ideas and thoughts, I dont
k ow what to think where to turn what to check how to diagnose this. what are your thoughts on this guys? Anyone else experience this before if so how was it fixed? Why’s was the cause? Also, what price range would I be looking at for
oarts and labor? And also, could taking the tranny apart from the clutch to examine inside the clutch a DIY job fir
seoje with okay skills working with car?
Pleaseplease help me out here guys,real-time need my at to work as I just stated my new job and achool is about to startup for me and I’m so screwed if
I can’t get her fixed with the cheapest possible way!
okay, so I’m new to this forum, in-fact, I’ve jever used or posted into any other forum in my life until this one, so if I’m posting in the wrong section or doing something wrong, chew my a** out and I’ll fix the mistake and learn from it. Now, on to the actual issue!
My clutch basically blew out, and my brother had been driving it, apparently he had pressed extremely hard on the clutch multiple times wondering why it was stuck and won’t go down to the floor as it used to. (According to my mechanic, he had done significant damage to the firewall by bending it, not sure how bad exactly but bad enough to need replacing, also he destroyed the slave Salinger by putting so much pressure into it) So, the entire clutch was replaced, all new pets except I believe the flywheel was just resurfaced, after finishing, mechanic said car still wouldn’t go into gear, realized due to the fire wall being bent, it was significant enough to where he said he needed to “jerry rig” and had more slack to the metal rod connecting the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder. After doing that the vehIcle ran perfect for a year and a half until just recently. Older brother was driving it, he said just before the big issues, the clutch started to feel funny, think he said kind of spungy, then the car wouldn’t shift into any gear or even downshift and think he said it even stayed down to the floor for a bit. Said he got to the get off the freeway by staying in the gear he was in and go to a gas station. Once he pulled in the vehicle
of course stalled. He said he was able to start the vehicle and out it into gear and drive it to a safe location to park. After parking the vehicle now wouldn’t even turn over.
So hears what I found upon closer inspection after she got towed home.
(1) When the clutch pedal his pushed in the entire assembly so to speak moves back essentially showing or attesting to the fact that the fire wall is indeed bent and is rather weakening up or is getting way worse.
(2) Die to the entire assembly moving back just a slight bit, the clutch does not engage the safety switch,thus reason why the vehicle wouldn’t start, so I thought, well shut that’s my problem, right?
(3) After getting her started, right off the bad after starting it heard a few weird noises one sounded like slight grinding other sounded eh idk what it sounded like, but after 3 seconds disappeared. So, I’m sitting in neutral and am about to go drive this bad boy, I out the clutch all the way down ready to put the car into first, but it won’t go
not first gear, it won’t even go
into any gear I try putting it into just to see if any of them are at least free, so I decided screw it let’s out get into reverse, believes I was able to get her into reverse because it seemed to have popped hard into the gear making some type of noise I can’t recall, car julted a bit and walked out. Prior to me even starting the vehicle at all, I was able to shift the stick into any gear with it without clutch pressed in, after starting it and after that little issue,now I cannot out the stick into a gear while engine is off like I had been able to just prior to starting her up.
Also, my break fluid reservoir seems to be full, but the color seemed to be darker than normal perhaps alerting to a faulty Master cylinder? I don’t see any leaking around the slave cylinder, however the little fork the comes out of the engine thy connects to the space cylinder seems to have some
diatinct scrapes/scratches on both sides of it (sortakinda deeper than a normal scratch) I don’t believe they were there prior to any of these issues currently happening, perhaps something that caused that can point to what’s causing my issYes now?
Im ata loss guys new clutch barely a year and a half old. I know it’s not my driving I’ve been driving manual vehicles all my life and never had any major issues like this. I’m out of ideas and thoughts, I dont
k ow what to think where to turn what to check how to diagnose this. what are your thoughts on this guys? Anyone else experience this before if so how was it fixed? Why’s was the cause? Also, what price range would I be looking at for
oarts and labor? And also, could taking the tranny apart from the clutch to examine inside the clutch a DIY job fir
seoje with okay skills working with car?
Pleaseplease help me out here guys,real-time need my at to work as I just stated my new job and achool is about to startup for me and I’m so screwed if
I can’t get her fixed with the cheapest possible way!
#2
08-22-2018, 08:14 PM
If you are not knowledgable about clutch operation I wouldn't recommend messing around with it.
You have a situation where things have been altered and abused and now need to be straightened out by someone that knows what he/she is doing and knows what to do !
There is no part way here. It has to be thorough and done correctly or you will always have trouble with it.
The first thing I would do is hold my hand out to my brothers and ask for some $$$help since they were instrumental in creating the addl problems.
We don't know at this time why the pedal wouldn't go all the way down in the beginning.
As you know, you should be able to get the trans into almost any gear if the engine is not running, but definitely into any gear position if the engine IS running.
It is possible there is more than a problem with the clutch and possibly a problem within the trans also. Who ever takes the trans out will need to check it internally for bent or broken parts as well as replace the slave and master cyls for the clutch also. There is no shortcut for what needs to be done.
It's like ,she can't be a little bit pregnant.
You have a situation where things have been altered and abused and now need to be straightened out by someone that knows what he/she is doing and knows what to do !
There is no part way here. It has to be thorough and done correctly or you will always have trouble with it.
The first thing I would do is hold my hand out to my brothers and ask for some $$$help since they were instrumental in creating the addl problems.
We don't know at this time why the pedal wouldn't go all the way down in the beginning.
As you know, you should be able to get the trans into almost any gear if the engine is not running, but definitely into any gear position if the engine IS running.
It is possible there is more than a problem with the clutch and possibly a problem within the trans also. Who ever takes the trans out will need to check it internally for bent or broken parts as well as replace the slave and master cyls for the clutch also. There is no shortcut for what needs to be done.
It's like ,she can't be a little bit pregnant.
#3
08-23-2018, 12:21 AM
Thank you for your reply,
I honestly wasn’t planning on messing around with anything that would require me to drop the trans. And get inside the bell-housing/clutch assembly. I have never done one before and I can’t afford the clutch failing prematurely because I didn’t align all the parts correctly.
AnywYs, just a quick little update:
- I decided to go check a few more things to better arm myself with more indicators as to what could be the main issue. I got under the hook, pulled back the Clutch forkrubber boot and I can get a look up
inside the clutch assembly and see if I am able to notice anything just through that super small opening. Well, hell I didn’t even have to look inside the hole before I got my answer that it’s for sure an internal problem. Basically as I was pulling the rubber bolt back there was a few isolated ball bearings that dropped out, and upon further inspection, I can also see some more isolated ball hearing inside the clutch housing.
My guess right off the top since I do believe there is only one part inside the clutch assembly that has bearings in it and that’s the “Throw-out Bearing” correct? Assuming there is single isolated little ball bearings all over the somehow someway the part may have exploded or had gotten destroyed violently. And tough the entire clutch assembly and slave cylinder is barely even a year and a half old and was does professionally with all OEM parts (and it’s being driven correctly, no riding the clutch, not keeping foot on pedal during res lights, not missing shifts, no down shifting hard and I don’t even bother downshifting to 1st year instead after second just put it in neutral, I do not race the car or put any irregular amount of pressure on the throw out bearing.
Al though, I have encountered a dead battery with no other option other than to ‘pop the clutch’ to get her started. Also, there was one other issue that i know of that is the only way high amounts of pressure if put on the parts which was when my little brother saying after jumping the car, it would idle perfectly fine, but once he got
drjving it, the car would want to stall by any means necessary and he said he if would just keep it in first gear and maintain fairly high RPM but having the clutch oushed
in during the time not duly but depressed just enough because he said in order to save it from dying/stalling was pushing the clutch in as fast as possible and he said keeping this up going around the block would ended up working but causing the car to jerk and put immense pressure on the clutch system is the biggest ****ing single mistake I’ve ever seen my brother do and he is no longer my brother anymore, there’s no way I can be related to him. If he would have used his brain, opened the hood and noticed the battery terminal connectors are all corroded by the way the car was acting (almost like it
would if it had a failing alternator) and spending less that $6 at Autozone to purchase new color coated terminal connectors and connect appropriate wires etc. the car would have driven/started and maintained a charged battery. Now keep in mind, the entire fiasco explained above took place at least 4-5 months ago and the vehicle has only been broken down now for a month. So if my brother did do damage to the clutch by doing what he did wouldn’t I have noticed any difference in the clutch or any odd noises/sounds as the clutch got closer to tearing itself apart somewhere inside?
So so with the few isolated little ball hearings seen inside clutch assembly looking inside from the clutch for point to what in your guys’s Opinion? Could it just be one part that broke and the rest of the cutch assembky
be free of any problems?
Could this be a DIY fix if doing proper research, study, ask questions along the way with pics via this forum, have a friend with me whose also mechanically inclined to help? If Anything,
the tranny will be dropped and car is ready
to be worked on sVing me money in labor when having my regular mechanic do it. Please help with you idea, thoughts,concerns, and any insults pertaining to my “ex” younger brothers neglect for someone else’s vehicle and what he was doing to it so I can forward them to him so he still feels like **** only th S time random people are getting to talk **** to him all just for fun. Sorry for writing a huge post, stuck on a 10 hour flight, and 2 vodkas and one beer has me like whoa
thanks again for any help or suggestions in advance. Means s lot and you don’t realize how much any amount of help goes a long ways with me as I constantly second guess things and things go much more quicker/smoother when I have y’all to help
I honestly wasn’t planning on messing around with anything that would require me to drop the trans. And get inside the bell-housing/clutch assembly. I have never done one before and I can’t afford the clutch failing prematurely because I didn’t align all the parts correctly.
AnywYs, just a quick little update:
- I decided to go check a few more things to better arm myself with more indicators as to what could be the main issue. I got under the hook, pulled back the Clutch forkrubber boot and I can get a look up
inside the clutch assembly and see if I am able to notice anything just through that super small opening. Well, hell I didn’t even have to look inside the hole before I got my answer that it’s for sure an internal problem. Basically as I was pulling the rubber bolt back there was a few isolated ball bearings that dropped out, and upon further inspection, I can also see some more isolated ball hearing inside the clutch housing.
My guess right off the top since I do believe there is only one part inside the clutch assembly that has bearings in it and that’s the “Throw-out Bearing” correct? Assuming there is single isolated little ball bearings all over the somehow someway the part may have exploded or had gotten destroyed violently. And tough the entire clutch assembly and slave cylinder is barely even a year and a half old and was does professionally with all OEM parts (and it’s being driven correctly, no riding the clutch, not keeping foot on pedal during res lights, not missing shifts, no down shifting hard and I don’t even bother downshifting to 1st year instead after second just put it in neutral, I do not race the car or put any irregular amount of pressure on the throw out bearing.
Al though, I have encountered a dead battery with no other option other than to ‘pop the clutch’ to get her started. Also, there was one other issue that i know of that is the only way high amounts of pressure if put on the parts which was when my little brother saying after jumping the car, it would idle perfectly fine, but once he got
drjving it, the car would want to stall by any means necessary and he said he if would just keep it in first gear and maintain fairly high RPM but having the clutch oushed
in during the time not duly but depressed just enough because he said in order to save it from dying/stalling was pushing the clutch in as fast as possible and he said keeping this up going around the block would ended up working but causing the car to jerk and put immense pressure on the clutch system is the biggest ****ing single mistake I’ve ever seen my brother do and he is no longer my brother anymore, there’s no way I can be related to him. If he would have used his brain, opened the hood and noticed the battery terminal connectors are all corroded by the way the car was acting (almost like it
would if it had a failing alternator) and spending less that $6 at Autozone to purchase new color coated terminal connectors and connect appropriate wires etc. the car would have driven/started and maintained a charged battery. Now keep in mind, the entire fiasco explained above took place at least 4-5 months ago and the vehicle has only been broken down now for a month. So if my brother did do damage to the clutch by doing what he did wouldn’t I have noticed any difference in the clutch or any odd noises/sounds as the clutch got closer to tearing itself apart somewhere inside?
So so with the few isolated little ball hearings seen inside clutch assembly looking inside from the clutch for point to what in your guys’s Opinion? Could it just be one part that broke and the rest of the cutch assembky
be free of any problems?
Could this be a DIY fix if doing proper research, study, ask questions along the way with pics via this forum, have a friend with me whose also mechanically inclined to help? If Anything,
the tranny will be dropped and car is ready
to be worked on sVing me money in labor when having my regular mechanic do it. Please help with you idea, thoughts,concerns, and any insults pertaining to my “ex” younger brothers neglect for someone else’s vehicle and what he was doing to it so I can forward them to him so he still feels like **** only th S time random people are getting to talk **** to him all just for fun. Sorry for writing a huge post, stuck on a 10 hour flight, and 2 vodkas and one beer has me like whoa
thanks again for any help or suggestions in advance. Means s lot and you don’t realize how much any amount of help goes a long ways with me as I constantly second guess things and things go much more quicker/smoother when I have y’all to help
#4
08-23-2018, 07:00 AM
You should write for a magazine AND, you can pick your friends, but not your relatives, that said maybe we can be of some help. As I have stated before,there are some pretty savvy folks on this forum and we all would like to help.
Usually, the clutch release brg only contacts the clutch fingers when the pedal is depressed past the free ply stage. ( first 1 in. travel of the clutch pedal)
As the clutch disc wears that free ply gets less and less and requires adjustment to maintain that free ply. However, if a driver has the habit of leaving his/her foot resting on the clutch pedal that release bearing is working and wearing. Also if , when the replacement clutch assy was installed the release brg was not replaced , it can get noisy and go to pieces. So there you have a couple of reasons for the failure.
The only way to tell the condition of the clutch assy is to remove the trans and cuutch pressure plate and disc and visually inspect them.
You will need to correct the problem with the linkage at the firewall. Can't see it so can't make any useful suggestions.
Clutches when done correctly , give very little trouble if maintained. Correctly in my opinion means if the slave and master have been on there for a long time , they should be replaced at the time the assembly is replaced. It may cost a little more, but it's worth it to be trouble free up the road.
You or whom ever takes on the job has their work cut out for them.
Usually, the clutch release brg only contacts the clutch fingers when the pedal is depressed past the free ply stage. ( first 1 in. travel of the clutch pedal)
As the clutch disc wears that free ply gets less and less and requires adjustment to maintain that free ply. However, if a driver has the habit of leaving his/her foot resting on the clutch pedal that release bearing is working and wearing. Also if , when the replacement clutch assy was installed the release brg was not replaced , it can get noisy and go to pieces. So there you have a couple of reasons for the failure.
The only way to tell the condition of the clutch assy is to remove the trans and cuutch pressure plate and disc and visually inspect them.
You will need to correct the problem with the linkage at the firewall. Can't see it so can't make any useful suggestions.
Clutches when done correctly , give very little trouble if maintained. Correctly in my opinion means if the slave and master have been on there for a long time , they should be replaced at the time the assembly is replaced. It may cost a little more, but it's worth it to be trouble free up the road.
You or whom ever takes on the job has their work cut out for them.
#5
08-23-2018, 09:47 PM
The firewall is weak and bent.
The tranny is being abused and will have major trouble soon.
The jerry rig lasted for a year and a half
Time to get rid of vehicle and get another
Otherwise get ready to shell out bucks, major bucks for fixing this car
The tranny is being abused and will have major trouble soon.
The jerry rig lasted for a year and a half
Time to get rid of vehicle and get another
Otherwise get ready to shell out bucks, major bucks for fixing this car
#6
08-24-2018, 06:53 PM
Pics of Slave Cylinder+clutch fork. Next Clutch Pedal Assembly Pics
#7
08-24-2018, 07:33 PM
Justin,
Do you recall the story about the ball bearings coming out ?
You know,,,,,,,,,,,,replacing the slave cyl cannot do anything to help replace those troublesome little ***** right?
The trans needs to come out,depending on the condition of the clutch pieces ,you might get away with replacing the release brg and the slave and master.
We all know what is the right thing to do, but sometimes $$$ gets in the way. Have you given any thought as to what you were going to do with the problem at the firewall?
Just from what you have told us , I really have some doubts about being able to save the clutch assy. You can try to patch this thing up somehow, but you know a half -------job can't last and we don't know at this point if it will be cheaper to do the job right or go look for a replacement vehicle hoping it won't need more of your hard earned $$$.
I don't know too many people that unloaded a perfectly good vehicle. Usually there is a reason and I don't mean they got tired of the paint color.
Do you recall the story about the ball bearings coming out ?
You know,,,,,,,,,,,,replacing the slave cyl cannot do anything to help replace those troublesome little ***** right?
The trans needs to come out,depending on the condition of the clutch pieces ,you might get away with replacing the release brg and the slave and master.
We all know what is the right thing to do, but sometimes $$$ gets in the way. Have you given any thought as to what you were going to do with the problem at the firewall?
Just from what you have told us , I really have some doubts about being able to save the clutch assy. You can try to patch this thing up somehow, but you know a half -------job can't last and we don't know at this point if it will be cheaper to do the job right or go look for a replacement vehicle hoping it won't need more of your hard earned $$$.
I don't know too many people that unloaded a perfectly good vehicle. Usually there is a reason and I don't mean they got tired of the paint color.
#8
08-24-2018, 08:44 PM
He asked me who told me that. I told him no one. This is through experience.
But, he insist that he can get perfectly good cars. And in the 14 years that he has been selling used cars that he hasn't had any complaints.
BS
#9
08-25-2018, 12:21 AM
Man, I would Just love roger this vehicle back up and running and Just get rid of her. She was running extremely well prior to this, transmission was smoother than butter, just all in all a fairly decent city commuter for college and work. She had less than 150k miles and once I get the clutch situation tied up I’m going to unload her for $1900 with the hopes of getting no less that $1500 after negotiations. I’d say that’s a win for the next owner. I just hope they are mechanically inclined as to be able to do repairs that wouldn’t be your average mechanics DIY like changing out the firewall and I’ve been told there is no other option or way to repair it the way it sit now. and I definitely do not have any money nor any means to save any money as I have fallen on extremely hard times. I have been walking almost five miles round trip to work 2 sometimes theee times a week but that’s rare and I either take the bus the rest of the week or a Lyft. And good thing my college is just down the street from my a quick 15 minute bike ride is enough to get my there. Just have never been put into a situation like this where I didn’t have access to a vehicle and had to rely on public transportation to get around. Just it’s hard I’m tearing up right now. But I guess everything you have mention has been nothing but oointing
out the obvious I just was holding on to any small sliver of hope but deep down I knew that car really isn’t even worth getting fixed at all and should sell it as is. Idk I’m only 26 and I still owe a little over $1500 on this cAr oh **** I’m signing off before I keep reminding myself why I’ve been hating like these last month and a half or so.
Thank you kindly sir. For your honest opinions and insight. Very much appreciated.
out the obvious I just was holding on to any small sliver of hope but deep down I knew that car really isn’t even worth getting fixed at all and should sell it as is. Idk I’m only 26 and I still owe a little over $1500 on this cAr oh **** I’m signing off before I keep reminding myself why I’ve been hating like these last month and a half or so.
Thank you kindly sir. For your honest opinions and insight. Very much appreciated.
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