Hello, everyone. I have a frustrating problem that I'm not sure how to solve.

I leased a 2021 Elantra SEL. I did this because the local Hyundai dealership wanted my 2019 leased Elantra back early. It had only 11,000 miles after two years. In exchange, they offered me a new lease, new car, better car, same terms, protection, etc. Seemed like a win-win situation.

I got the 2021 on April 15, 2021. I believe the gas gauge is inaccurate, and have had them look at it twice. Nothing's wrong with it. I don't agree, but I let it go.

Here's the problem I want to discuss with you: The key fobs are eating batteries left and right. The fobs have conked out completely twice, and I got a Low Key Battery warning just this past Monday. The first time they conked out, I managed to get the car to the dealership (after calling Roadside Assistance, and before remembering I had Blue Link on my phone), and they replaced the batteries. The second time, I replaced the batteries myself, having learned how. The third time, which was just this past Monday, I replaced the battery in just one.

I immediately made an appointment to have the dealership test the fobs. They did, and of course, they found nothing wrong with them. However, they tested the batteries, and they had just a 1.7 volt charge. This includes the brand new battery I just put in two days ago. The batteries are rated at 3 volts. (They are model 2032 batteries, Lithium.)

So, apparently the only two possibilities are the batteries are all bad to begin with, or my fobs are too close to the car, and that drains the batteries.

My car is right outside my bedroom, and the key fobs are on my desk right next to the window. So, I tested the car. I left the doors unlocked, plopped the fobs on my desk, went back outside, and tried starting the car. Key Not Recognized. So, it's not the location of the keys. (By the way, I keep the fobs in separate rooms, so they are not near each other.)

My question to you is: What do I do next? The dealership put in new batteries today, again. Since I've had the car for nine weeks, and have experienced three fob problems with it, this averages out to dead or dying batteries every three weeks. Am I going to have to replace the batteries once a month or so (at five bucks a pop)? Or is there something else I can check, since Hyundai says there isn't a problem?

I am sure something's wrong here.

Between the gas gauge issue and the fob issues, I am very disappointed with this lease. I'm right at the beginning of the lease, so am I going to have to live with it for three years? The car (at this writing) only has 1,012 miles on it.

Thank you for any comments, feedback, or advice you care to give.

 

We have to admit it is unusual for FOB batteries to die so quickly.
If there is a problem with the FOBs , that is a possibility.
When you purchase the batteries look very closely at the date on the packaging..
Some places don't move the batteries thru inventory and you could be purchasing old batteries.
The print is quite fine , but you can still read the date.

 

According to the dealership, there is nothing wrong with the fobs. Let me rephrase that...they said they couldn't find anything wrong with the fobs.
As for the batteries...I suppose it's possible the batteries have been sitting on the shelf for a while, but I bought them at a pretty busy supermarket.
Furthermore, I did check the dates when I was shopping for the batteries. There were Duracell and Everready, and they both had expiration dates of 2030.
Is it possible for these particular batteries to lose their potency just dangling on the rack? How old is "old?"

Also, the dealership put batteries in, as well. The dealership has put batteries in the fobs twice. I've put batteries in the fobs twice. What are the odds of their batteries and the ones I put in being old?

Yes, it's possible ALL of the batteries that went into the fobs since I got the car are old, but really, how likely is that?

I do plan on purchasing another set of batteries, and a different brand at a different store, just to have, just in case...and I will double-check the date.

Let me ask you this question: The batteries that are currently in both fobs were installed by the dealership, just this past week. If a fob conks out, or the dash reads Low Key Battery again, would it be reasonable to believe it's not a series of bad batteries, but something else entirely, that the dealership is either not able (or not willing) to recognize?

 

You're gonna love this !
Your guess is as good as mine.
The perplexing question is why does everything work as soon as the batteries are replaced?

Do you have Roadside Assistance with this lease?
If so, enough calls and they will delve into why this is happening , rest assured.
In the meantime, if they can't find the problem, I would ask for a supply of batteries until they can manage to correct the problem, what do you think?

 

I know it's an old thread, just wondering if this was ever solved? Have a 2019 Sonata and one key fob has been eating batteries. The last two lasted 30 days and 9 days respectively. I have used a battery tester and they behave as dead to the car but with my tester still saying they are exactly in the middle of the "good" range. Makes me think they aren't broadcasting their signal to the car well (mind you, I'm not a radio/rf guy, so what do I know).

 

There is a good possibility of a problem with the vehicle immobilizer system
There could be something interfering with the signal getting to the system or something within the system is malfunctioning and requires a strong signal from the FOB.

Are there any add ons in the vehicle ? Simple thing like a plug gismo for phone power has been known to cause problems.

If there are, simply remove them when not in immediate use.and see if that solves the problem.

 

5nms5dal0nh383603 Vin car turns off . No light on dash just no power accelerator to the floor no accelerator Is there something with the Santa Fe transmission engine sounded rough ever turned off but car went into limp mode . Stepped on brake then the limp mode went away then power came back then accelerated from 0 mph norm speed norm power 3-5 seconds to light stop then no power again max speed 20 mph but limping
engine still working. Drove 1 mile then engine limp to 15 mph then brake to turn to drive way then more power but then reduce power to 10 mph . Is this a transmission or engine error .