Crank, good fuel pressure, no spark.
 

Good morning,

My 2013 Elantra 1.8l suddenly stopped starting up. It cranks strong, but isn't getting spark on any coil-pack. The fuel pressure is solid. No blown fuses. I swapped the ign relay with the ac relay I think it was (I made sure the amp / volt and part number matched) and that didn't change anything.

I'm suspecting it's the cam sensor or crank sensor, but I don't want to burn $100.00 if that's not the issue. Oh an no codes are being thrown, I even checked my scan tool just in case the indicator light was burned out and not showing up as a code fault, but no codes are present.

Any help would be appreciated!

Everything starts with the crank sensor. For some reason crank sensors on some Hyundai vehicles are troublesome. Without being there to see and check , at this time I would be suspicious of the crank sensor or it's wiring.

No spark ...
Did you check to see if you have injector pulse?
Test light can verify if there is or isn't injector pulse
If there is no spark and no injector pulse then most likely the crank shaft sensor is no working.
Oscilloscope would verify that but not everyone has a scope.

I just got a noid test light kit and I’ll be checking the injectors this evening. Yesterday I borrowed a super fancy scan tool from a coworker.

I verified the battery has 12v output, the camshaft sensor is working properly, the injector lag is 33.xx ns (nanoseconds perhaps?) I’m not sure if this verifies the functioning of a the injectors or not so I’m going to check with the noid to verify. The valves are all operational and timed identically (I can’t recall the figures at the moment, but I was shocked at how identical they are) the relays and fuses all sent back positive information (which is to say they all work, but I sort of already knew that, but now I have that info double checked from the car’s perspective) the ERG valve is functioning within acceptable parameters. All O2 sensors are functioning properly.

Long story short I had a super fancy toy to play with and checked every system on the car and everything checked out ok. Especially the systems related to the ignition and fuel delivery, as far as this tool was telling me at least.

I rechecked for spark, and I did get spark this time. I’m thinking in the dark and rain when I checked originally I didn’t have the plug grounded properly. It was a faint orange spark, but it was sparking. Perhaps my plugs just need replaced.

I’ve also read that if the throttle body is dirty it can prevent the vehicle from starting, due to some sensor not being able to get a proper reading. So I’ll be doing that this evening as well.

I also read that if the chip in the key goes bad a similar situation to what I’m experiencing can happen, however it doesn’t seem like there’s a test for that. Anyone have any experience with this issue?

You should have a second coded key. See if that key makes any difference.

The second key was left in a different state and never recovered.

That is what makes this problem more complicated.
If it is an immobilizer problem, the only thing we can do is make sure the battery in it is good. Otherwise a capable scan tool will be required to confirm correct functioning.and that will require a qualified locksmith or dealership tech or tech with the capable scan tool.

Does the key symbol light up??

I do not see any key light indicators.

I have now verified the following items are functioning properly:

cam shaft sensors (both were cleaned and test ok)
crank shaft sensor (no data available in scan tool, replaced component. no change in vehicle start.)
mass airflow sensor (sensor tests ok and was cleaned)
throttle body (cleaned and check functioning)
all O2 sensors (scanned and test ok)
ground cables (tested ok with scan tool, visually checked and cleaned ground cables as well)
coil packs (all coil packs send spark to the plugs)
relays (all relays tested ok)
fuses (no blown fuses)
fuel pump (tested with pressure gauge)
fuel injectors (tested with noid light)
spark plugs (installed new NGK iridium plugs)
air filter (new air filters installed 5k miles ago. Visually inspected and they look to be in good condition)
battery (tests good, and is reading 12v)

I think at this point the only possibilities left are the immobilizer or the timing. Can anyone think of anything I might be missing? At this point I am getting spark, fuel, and the engine cranks over solid.

Might be time to do a compression test. If not up to par , could be timing problem.