CV Axle replacement 2003 Elantra GLS
 

My car of about 170K miles needs new cv joints. They're not clicking or anything but the boots are completely dry rotted and torn, throwing grease everywhere. At this mileage, if I remove them to replace the boot, I might as well replace. I put a split boot on both of them but I know its only a temporary band-aid. Anyone have a procedure or DIY write up for the CV joints? From the looks of it I think I can handle it, I am only worried about the lower ball joint and how to disconnect them, and I wonder if the axle is pressed into the hub like on some japanese cars. Also it looks like the axles just slide out of the transaxle, unless theres a locking ring hidden somewhere back there. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

REMOVAL
1.Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.

2.Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with safety stands in a proper location.

3.Loosen the wheel nuts thoroughly and remove the front wheel.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcds02a.gif

4.Remove the split pin, the castle nut and the washer from the front hub.

5.Disconnect the tie rod end ball joint from the knuckle by using the Special Tool(09568-34000) after removing the split pin and the castle nut.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/exddc02a.gif
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/exddc03a.gif

6.Remove the caliper assembly from the knuckle and suspend it with a wire.

7.Disconnect the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle by using the Special Tool (09568-34000).

8.Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the knuckle.

9.Disconnect the strut upper mounting bolts.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/eidd401b.gif

10.Using a plastic hammer, disconnect the driveshaft from the axle hub.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcds03a.gif

11.Push the axle hub outward and separate the driveshaft from the axle hub.

12.Drain the transmission fluid before the driveshaft is removed.

13.Insert a pry bar between the transaxle case and joint case, and separate the driveshaft from the transaxle case.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcds04a.gif
a.Use a pry bar being careful not to damage the transaxle and joint.
b.Do not insert the pry bar too deep, as this may cause damage to the oil seal. [max. depth : 7mm (0.28 in.)]
c.Do not pull the driveshaft by excessive force it may cause components inside the B.J. or T.J. joint kit to dislodge resulting in a torn boot or a damaged bearing.

14.Pull out the driveshaft from the transaxle case.
a.Plug the hole of the transaxle case with the oil seal cap to prevent contamination.
b.Support the driveshaft properly.
c.Replace the retainer ring whenever the driveshaft is removed from the transaxle case.


INSTALLATION
1.Apply gear oil on the driveshaft splines and differential case contacting surface.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcds06a.gif
2.Before installing the driveshaft, set the opening side of the circlip facing downward.

3.After installation, check that the driveshaft cannot be removed by hand.

4.Assemble the dust cover, the hub the brake disc and the wheel bearing to the knuckle.

5.Install the B.J. into the knuckle.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcds07a.gif
6.In practice, the knuckle should be installed in the lower arm the moment the B.J. is installed in the knuckle. Be careful not to damage the boot.

7.Install the knuckle in the strut assembly with the tightening torque, 75~90 Nm (750~900 kg·cm, 54~65 lb·ft).
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/elcdd08a.gif
8.Install the lower arm in the knuckle with the tightening torque 60~72 Nm (600~720 kg·cm, 43~52 lb·ft).

9.After the installation, check on the driveshaft for stability by hand.

10.After installing the washer with convex surface outward, install the castle nut and the split pin.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/eida212a.gif
11.Install the wheel and tire.

Thanks man thats about all I needed! One more question.... could I get away with using one of those fork ball joint separators or should I spring for a "special tool" style one and if so which one should I get. Thanks again!

Easy money... used the fork style ball joint separator to disconnect the tie rod end ball joint from the knuckle. Left the lower ball joint intact as I could move the knuckle/outer cv joint enough to remove/replace the axle. The castle nut holding the axle in the hub is nearly impossible to remove without an impact as it is very hard to stop the hub from turning. I bent one of the wheel studs trying to use a breaker bar before I broke down and got a cheap electric impact. Thanks for the help man!

very hard to stop the hub from turning
 

Actually if you use the brake pedal it will keep the hub from spinning. I know hard to believe they would have such a thing but they do lol!

I did both my 2002 no ball joint removal needed there is utube video saved me the headache of putting the ball joint back together had to take the two lower strut bolts and tie rod bolt https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...W_US&vm=r&tt=b