OBDII car code reader
#3
My 04 Accent H/B had the check engine light on prior to me working on it. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it after completing the tranny job. I was told to drive it about 60 miles to see if it would remain off.
The light has been off for about 40 miles, so far @ 20 miles per night. I stopped at an autoparts store to have them check it with their Bosch reader and it came up Unable to Detect (it directed us to turn off ignition and on again about five times before giving up. A week later I asked them to connect another reader (Bosch) and it came up - Link Failure.
NovaR, I thought it was a bad reader. Should I go another location? And / or could you point me to some threads or links that may be of assistance? Thanks a million.
*Can't sell it until it's able to be inspected.
The light has been off for about 40 miles, so far @ 20 miles per night. I stopped at an autoparts store to have them check it with their Bosch reader and it came up Unable to Detect (it directed us to turn off ignition and on again about five times before giving up. A week later I asked them to connect another reader (Bosch) and it came up - Link Failure.
NovaR, I thought it was a bad reader. Should I go another location? And / or could you point me to some threads or links that may be of assistance? Thanks a million.
*Can't sell it until it's able to be inspected.
#4
One bad code reader is understandable
Two would indicate a communication problem in the car.
This would mean that there is probably a bad connector or a problem in the wiring harness.
Look up the pin out for the OBDII connector and check for powers and grounds. (not sure but could be pins 16 and 4, 5)
If there is power and grounds then it is in the wiring harness
Don't forget to inspect the connector itself to see if pins are loose or out of place.
Two would indicate a communication problem in the car.
This would mean that there is probably a bad connector or a problem in the wiring harness.
Look up the pin out for the OBDII connector and check for powers and grounds. (not sure but could be pins 16 and 4, 5)
If there is power and grounds then it is in the wiring harness
Don't forget to inspect the connector itself to see if pins are loose or out of place.
#5
Thank you. I'm headed to perform the visual inspection portion of the trouble shoot you provided right now. (As for the technical version), if & when time allows, please tell me where I should touch the multi-meter leads to & the correct setting for the meter. Thanks again.
#6
Looking at the OBDII connector on the car, wider portion on top.
Pin count starts on upper left corner. Pins 4, 5 are grounds
Pin 16 (bottom right, last pin) is the power (12 v)
Multi-meter selector is on DC volts and in the range of 20 volts (if it is not auto range select).
The leads on the multi-meter should be black on ground (always check to make sure it is a good ground or test will come back wrong) and red on pin 4 or 5 or 16.
Good .. Pin 4 - no volts, Pin 5 - no volts, Pin 16 - 12 volts.
If pins 4 and 5 show no voltage then do an Ohm check to see there is a ground connection to pins 4, 5.
Multi-meter selector on Ohms (kilo Ohms range is okay). Black lead on ground and red lead to pin 4 or pin 5.
Meter reading should be 0 or less than o.1 KOhms to be good.
You can also check the voltage by going black lead on pin 4 or 5 and red lead on pin 16
Should read 12 volts for good test.
Usually 8 out of 10 times it is the OBDII connector. The pins don't make good contact with the code reader or someone forgot to have the key in the on position (with engine off or running)
Pin count starts on upper left corner. Pins 4, 5 are grounds
Pin 16 (bottom right, last pin) is the power (12 v)
Multi-meter selector is on DC volts and in the range of 20 volts (if it is not auto range select).
The leads on the multi-meter should be black on ground (always check to make sure it is a good ground or test will come back wrong) and red on pin 4 or 5 or 16.
Good .. Pin 4 - no volts, Pin 5 - no volts, Pin 16 - 12 volts.
If pins 4 and 5 show no voltage then do an Ohm check to see there is a ground connection to pins 4, 5.
Multi-meter selector on Ohms (kilo Ohms range is okay). Black lead on ground and red lead to pin 4 or pin 5.
Meter reading should be 0 or less than o.1 KOhms to be good.
You can also check the voltage by going black lead on pin 4 or 5 and red lead on pin 16
Should read 12 volts for good test.
Usually 8 out of 10 times it is the OBDII connector. The pins don't make good contact with the code reader or someone forgot to have the key in the on position (with engine off or running)
Last edited by avisitor; 03-28-2016 at 07:54 PM.
#7
Wow! I can't thank you enough. You've made my friggin day.
*Your detailed explanation regarding OBDII Code Reader (Link Errors) Trouble Shooting (including NovaR's) definitely should be a Posting of its own & probably in the FAQ.
Thanks a million.
Tom
*Your detailed explanation regarding OBDII Code Reader (Link Errors) Trouble Shooting (including NovaR's) definitely should be a Posting of its own & probably in the FAQ.
Thanks a million.
Tom
#8
Avisitor, just wanted to give you an update regarding the results of the trouble shoot you provided.
I removed the connector from its dashboard insert & tested the pins and everything was 'Good'. I'm going to take it back to the Auto Parts store and have it checked in a day or two.
Thanks again.
I removed the connector from its dashboard insert & tested the pins and everything was 'Good'. I'm going to take it back to the Auto Parts store and have it checked in a day or two.
Thanks again.
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