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Your pix appears to show a hall effect sensor (3 wire) and they do use a reference voltage. Looks like you found the problem Nice work !
Thanks, I always appreciate input. The next 3 days I'll be testing. Believe it or not, I am going to have to replace the starter. This starter has a dead spot on it and will only work while the key is held to start position by a helper and the starter is tapped (shield is off for this test). I verified 13.8 volts on the terminal. I got one coming from Amazon and it is supposed to be here this weekend. I have 80% confidence that the problems will be fixed. Time for a beer!
Just a reminder,
You could exchange your present starter for a rebuilt and it may be a cheaper route to go.
Usually when you get a starter without returning a core there is an extra core charge. Maybe the one you are waiting for is new. don't know in which case you keep the old starter.
If circumstances permit, I use a local rebuilder . That way if there is any problem you can always get another starter right away. Have never had to do that yet !
Just a reminder,
You could exchange your present starter for a rebuilt and it may be a cheaper route to go.
Usually when you get a starter without returning a core there is an extra core charge. Maybe the one you are waiting for is new. don't know in which case you keep the old starter.
If circumstances permit, I use a local rebuilder . That way if there is any problem you can always get another starter right away. Have never had to do that yet !
The one I bought is new, but probably Chinese and those have questionable quality. I believe I can take my existing one apart and clean or replace the contacts on the solenoid (Bendix). They are likely blackened or pitted. They might even be replaceable.
The symptom is... the solenoid kicks in, but power from the battery is not energizing the actual starter motor (most of the time). The contacts are usually what go bad.
I got this new piece for under $50 and they are saying it will be delivered tomorrow. If I fix the old one, it will remain a spare. i.e. no core exchange required.
Been there, grant you the starters from "there" do look good and work, but as fate works when it does decide to go into retirement , it never happens on a day when you are looking for something to do.
There were days when we were able to purchase brushes , bushings and bearings if you decided to do your own repairs. That is why I take my spare to a local rebuilder and they will cut down the armature , install new bushing/bearings and brushes and guarantee their work. The cost is less than exchanging for a rebuilt. Just something to consider.
UPDATE: Replacing that crankshaft position sensor did not fix the the 7-9 miles start of surging. It did eliminate the camshaft position sensor code and improved the smoothness of engine operation up to the point of surging. It definitely needed replacing as did the camshaft position sensor. Both sensors had rotted (badly deteriorated) wire leads to the connector. but obviously they were still outputting signal or else the engine wouldn't run.
Almost ready to throw in the towel, I continued testing. TPS code comes up at 7-9 miles but I proved it was not the TPS using my scanner's live data feature. With my Actron scanner I can view what the computer is seeing for the TPS percent of throttle opening. It was tracking perfectly with no dropouts or sudden changes. This was true before and after the surging began. I kept trying to think of what emissions component comes on only at 7 to 9 miles after a battery reset. The EVAP system is based on several drive cycles, not specially mileage. The O2 sensors begin outputting within seconds. I pretty much gave up on idea that the reference voltage to the TPS sensor was dying. I went to bed that night pretty frustrated, thinking this has to be a computer problem.... but then I kept coming back to 'why does simply lifting the battery reset for another few miles of smooth driving?'. Sometime in the middle of the night another idea popped into my head. What about the cooling fan or the temperature sensor? Could that have something to do with it? What about something with the AC? Almost all test driving was done with the AC on since we are in this extreme hot muggy weather pattern here in Florida.
The next morning I took the vehicle around the block with the AC off. I had not yet did the battery disconnect thing so it started off surging within a tenth of a mile. Then I disconnected the battery and took it for a ride with no AC on. Amazingly I made it 10-12 miles with no surging and had no TPS code. Holly crap, I thought, now I am on to something, it appears to be related to the AC. I put the vehicle back in the driveway and observed under the hood for a few minutes and noticed the cooling fan had never come on, yet the AC will run with it in the driveway. I checked the coolant temperature with my Actron and saw that the coolant temp would go up to about 210 and it was a smooth and steady climb but still the fan did not come on. Could the ECU be trying to shut down the engine due to high temperature? Could boiling transmission fluid (cooled by the fan as well) be causing the slipping and RPM jump? Well whatever is going on, the cooling fan or AC has something to do with my problem.
I ordered a new cooling fan from Rock Auto (manufacturers closeout for $32 shipped). A few days later the fan came in but had a 4 wire connector instead of 2. Initially a little discouraged, I figured out that I could still wire it in. Physically it fit perfectly although you have to remove the upper radiator hose to R&R it. When I removed the old fan, I noticed the connector was very burned and certainly the reason the fan was not coming on. I had ordered both pigtails from Hyundai but their delivery is quite slow and I still have not received them. So... I went ahead and just cut the connectors off and soldered the fan wires to the wiring harness wires (easy to do since right there in your face under the hood).
I test drove the vehicle with the new fan but also swapped the fog light relay for the fan relay and the horn relay for the AC relay in case they were sticking closed (possible answer to the battery disconnect scenario which is still a mystery). Vehicle now drives fine with or without AC. Cooling fan comes on within 2 seconds of AC starting up and without AC kicks on when coolant reaches 207 and shuts off at 192. This part appears to be functioning properly.
My conclusion is that there are 2 possibilities to cause the problem I had. 1. The cooling fan was shorting out, but not to the point of blowing a fuse. This was dragging down the 12 volts to the coil, injectors, or fuel pump. 2. Without proper condenser cooling, the high pressure cutout in the AC line was momentarily cutting in or out, applying 12 volts to the compressor clutch coil off and on, also dragging 12 volts down.... and there is a third possibility and that is that the transmission fluid could have severely overheated to cause slipping, surging, and attempt to go in limp mode. The TPS code was simply a false code caused by loss of power.
Anyhow, this was probably one of the more difficult issues to diagnose. If I had observed the cooling fan behavior earlier, I might have been able to nail it. At least I replaced a lot of marginal parts and seem to have a drivable vehicle. It is a long story to get to this point. Thanks for reading. Picture of cooling fan connector below showing burned contact.
Yes, ran good for about 3 more years and then started cutting out after about 40 minutes of driving. I did a recent post on the new issue which was the evaporative charcoal canister. Running good now.
