Hi guys, so starting to think I’ve got a lemon here. Had the oil pressure switch go a few months ago caught it just before it dumped all the engine oil, but still have residue in the engine compartment.

Then had issues w power cutting out while driving and had alternator replaced, good for a few more months.

Now I went to start it the other morning and nothing. I get power turning the vehicle to the on position but when I go to start the power cuts out completely no starter cranking and I have to turn off, wait and then turn back to on before the electronics will turn back on.

Tried boosting with no result, boosted w the negative connected to battery terminal of that matters.

I think an interior light was left on which drained the battery which may have started this issue.

Battery is brand new but next I charged back to full, attempted it again with no change. Cleaned both posts tried a second battery I knew worked with no results as well. Checked and no codes thrown.

Wondering what my next steps would be, could borrow a multimeter to test if starter is getting current, not sure how I would go checking the ground. I’ve also heard there’s a sensor on the negative terminal that can go and will sever the ground connection as well. Also which relays or fuses might affect this.

Other info.. oil pressure switch failure had coated the inside of the engine compartment months ago so I wonder if they can cause issues long term, (esp w recent alternator failure) also have a aftermarket trailer wiring harness that runs of the brake lights and is grounded to frame, and aftermarket car starter that has never worked reliably.

Lots of info here I apologize.. thanks in advance for any advice.

sound it made boosting:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yn8c4138kn...%20PM.mov?dl=0

Dash w key on on position.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t2bl6jj0ak...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

 

A couple of wild guesses, ....

Could try doing voltage drop tests to see where the high impedance is??
And just a note: it is possible for a bad ignition switch to cause these issues also

 

It is entirely possible there is a poor connection between the battery and the rest of the vehicle. With that possibility usually no amount of boost will overcome that problem.
There are other places where battery cables connect to the vehicle and they should be checked and cleaned. There is also the possibility of dirty/defective cables coming from the battery.
This can be confirmed with voltage drop testing, but that will take some effort to learn and use a multimeter properly. Keep in mind cables and connections can look OK and still be bad. The only way is to actually test or remove and clean those connections.
If your vehicle has the immobilizer system (anti-theft) , you might try the second key.

 

Thanks for the quick advice, going to borrow a multimeter and start testing starter / battery connections. Might try the starter relay jump as well to isolate which side it’s on, though the 2010s have a different style with the terminals positioned on each edge of the relay, not sure which I’d use. Crappy drawing attached with shaded terminal being the single brass one.

Heard gently tapping the starter while turning engine might I stick it if that’s the issue as well. Will try a few things and report back, thanks again.

 

Just in case you are not aware, there is a difference between voltage testing and voltage drop testing which must be done with the circuit under load.

 

Thanks again for the tips, I bypassed the start relay and it was attempting to crank the starter once, gave it a light tap while starting and didn't work. Did a test on the ground and decided to remove, sand pain down to the body on both and reattach and complete fixed the problem. Crazy that a better connection wasn't made (removing paint) from the factory. Thanks again for the help guys!

 

That was a good catch.
Thanks for coming back and posting the fix.

 

No problem!

Also worth noting that ground connections looked completely fine, and that I'd had issues with the charging system not producing enough current to power the battery / vehicle systems a month before. Went into 'limp mode'. Brought into a shop and they said it was the alternator and replaced it. Whether it was actually bad I'm not sure - I'd read that ground issues can contribute to alternator failure or may have been the ground issue all along.