Hyundai Santa Fe This compact sport utility vehicle offers the buyer the safety of an SUV without the hefty price tag or fuel bill.

3.5l Santa Fe spark plug change???

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  #1  
Old 09-23-2010, 11:12 AM
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Default 3.5l Santa Fe spark plug change???

Somewhere I read "better to let the service center do it"
I've changed plugs in anything I've come across from my '70 Camaro...up to my 2001 Volvo. Does the Santa Fe have any of the goofy "remove engine mounts and jack up engine 5 inches" kind-of stuff? If its a whole-day knuckle scraper....I'll bring it in. If I need only my spark plug socket on the ratchet wrench....I'll change 'em
Anyone been there, done that??
Thanks!!
 
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:28 AM
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Look at it... aint that hard.

Bunch of bolt across back of plenum, a clamp for the EGR pipe, 2 bolt at EGR valve, plenum bolts, air inlet boot, couple rubber lines and tip manifold to driver side and use rope or other to hold it out of your way..
Replace the plugs, and replace the wires (use Hyundai wires only for proer seal and fit.

Lok at you coils too, be aware of them big grey white spots, may give you problems down the road..

Pictures in the link --> https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=9089
 
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by slide4417
Somewhere I read "better to let the service center do it"
I've changed plugs in anything I've come across from my '70 Camaro...up to my 2001 Volvo. Does the Santa Fe have any of the goofy "remove engine mounts and jack up engine 5 inches" kind-of stuff? If its a whole-day knuckle scraper....I'll bring it in. If I need only my spark plug socket on the ratchet wrench....I'll change 'em
Anyone been there, done that??
Thanks!!
Well, it's certaintly is no small block Chevy but you don't have to remove the engine to do it. However, you do have to remove the upper intake manifold (AKA Surge Tank) to access the rear 3 plugs. And while some will reuse the manifold gasket, it's a good idea to replace it. Once the manifold is off then you can access the plugs by removing the coils over each plug.

Here are the instructions for removing the upper intake on a 2.7L Tuburon. While not 100% identical, it gives you the basic understanding of what needs to be done:
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1760


Here are the instructions to doing it on the 3.5L in the Santa Fe:



REMOVAL1.Remove the air intake hose connected to the throttle body.

2.Remove the engine coolant hose and throttle body.
3.Remove the P.C.V. hose and brake booster vacuum hoses.

4.Disconnect the vacuum hose connections.
5.Remove the surge tank stay.

6.Remove the surge tank.
7.Remove the surge tank and gasket.



INSTALLATIONTightening torque
Surge tank stay :
15 ~ 20 Nm (150 ~ 200 kg.cm, 11 ~ 14 lb.ft)

 
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Old 09-23-2010, 02:49 PM
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Default Thanks!!!

Thanks guys for saving me from cutting the grass this weekend. I think I'll be changing plugs 'n wires on the Santa Fe!
Is it strongly advised to get the parts from Hyunday...or can I get acceptable replacements elsewhere?

By the way...reason for doing this?
In top gear...when giving some gas and NOT downshifting....engine misses....shakes so much you'd think a tire was about to fall off. Also idles a bit crappy. I think it does have about 145K on the original plugs and wires, and I DO see some of that white powder like stuff on the wires, so probably is the culprit.
 
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:19 PM
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Minimum --> NGK Platinum as OE equipped... or do yourself a big favor and upgrade to the NGK IRIDIUM... NO regular $2 plugs, NO Bosch, NO gimmick plugs, Just NGK as mentioned earlier.

Wires --> Use the Hyundai OE wire set, best fit and construction, fit right and seal right.

Too much work involved to cut corners with discount parts.
 
  #6  
Old 09-26-2010, 04:48 PM
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Default 3.5l intake manifold torque spec

Changed plugs and wires. Now putting back together. My Chilton's book has the intake manifold torque specs for the 5 bolts and 2 nuts as
120 inch pounds. This seems VERY light I had to lay into it a bit to crack 'em loose, Seems FAR from that tightness going back together.
Can anyone verify this number for me??
Thanks!!
 
  #7  
Old 09-26-2010, 05:27 PM
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120 inch is 10 lb-ft....

I use torque wrench at 17lb-ft when tightening all the 8mm bolts on the intalke and mounting.
 
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by slide4417
Changed plugs and wires. Now putting back together. My Chilton's book has the intake manifold torque specs for the 5 bolts and 2 nuts as 120 inch pounds. This seems VERY light I had to lay into it a bit to crack 'em loose, Seems FAR from that tightness going back together.
Can anyone verify this number for me??
Thanks!!
Did you not read the instructions I posted above?

Originally Posted by NovaResource
...

INSTALLATION
Tightening torque
Surge tank stay :
15 ~ 20 Nm (150 ~ 200 kg.cm, 11 ~ 14 lb.ft)

 
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by NovaResource
Did you not read the instructions I posted above?
Yes, thanks....I was a bit confused with the terminology. Not sure that the "surge tank" was another word for the intake manifold...or plenum....and then I only guessed that the surge tank "stay" would be the brackets at the rear, and perhaps did not include ALL the mounting bolts in the area of the intake manifold gasket.
 
  #10  
Old 10-02-2010, 09:33 AM
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Default Extra Bolt!!

Almost done. When removing the bolts for the Surge Tank, I placed them on the ledge up by the windshield wipers.
Now putting everything back together...all hoses, brackets etc are back.
One bolt left over. It's killing me..been looking for 2 hours now where did it go??
Surge tank brackets in the rear...by firewall have two bolts on the passenger side, and 4 on the drivers side.
This bolt is similar to the surge tank bracket bolts (12 mm) but not as long. Has the "7" printed on the head of it like the other manifold bolts.
Other than that....I'm ready to turn the key...but won't yet, with a bolt left over!!
Any ideas??
 

Last edited by slide4417; 10-02-2010 at 09:35 AM.


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