I'm about at my wits end with this car! It is a 2009 Santa Fe, has 160k miles.

The car has periodically attempted to overheat when idling in traffic or in park. The AC will begin to blow warm/hot air and then the gauge starts going up and up. I have never let it get too far over the mid point and definitely never in the red, if I start driving the car it returns back to normal temps and stays there. No fluctuation in the temp guage UNLESS its idling for for than several minutes at a light/traffic at which it will start to rise.

I have already had it in the shop. The radiator is new (not a used part I put in the car), less than 2 years old. Replaced all the hoses, thermostat, radiator cap and flushed radiator in February. Tune up done late last year, I think December-ish. Also replaced PCV a little while earlier than that. AC condenser was replaced roughly a year ago. Just listing everything I've had done to this... car.

Here is what I notice.

Idle= overheat
Drive= just fine
Fans= are coming on from what I can tell so far.
Coolant levels- dropping? When I had it checked in late Feb for this issue, the tech said my coolant level was about 1/2 gallon low. He said he ran test to make sure coolant was not mixing with oil, passed. Ran some kind of PSI (again I am NOT a tech so dont know exactly the mechanisms of what he did) and it passed. He said he suspected pin hole leaking in hoses and recommended replacement of the hoses, thermostat, cap and a flush.

There is only a WATER puddle under my car from the AC when its parked. I've checked repeatedly, its never been coolant.

It ran great for a while after he "fixed" it. Now its doing it again. I looked and the radiator had coolant in it, however the reservoir? was below the L (low) line. I added more fluid, now it isnt overheating anymore. But I imagine just a matter of time before it will be right back at it.

What is WRONG with this car!?! I'm about ready to just blow the damn thing up.

Oh and while we are at it, the gas guage isnt working properly either. Will tell you its on E and then randomly go back where it should be at. Used to only do that if I let it get below 1/4 tank then filled back up, I'd have to drive it or let it run 10 mins or so and it would correct itself. Now it doesn't care and there is not a rhyme or reason it randomly says what it wants to. Check engine light is on and per the code reading tech said it was a historical code not a current one? (whatever that means!), could be a short in wiring back near the gas tank but to know I'd have to drop it off and he would have to drop the tank, etc etc. Oh joy!!!

 

Water pump???

 

If the car is cool while driving and overheating while standing still then the problem is air flow over the radiator. That means fans.

I'd make sure that both fans are operating correctly first. Then check the water pump to make sure it flowing enough coolant at idle.

 

Coolant is dropping in reservoir,so if you add to a proper level,there is no overheating. There is leak somewhere,no doubt,so we must find it,no magic here. First check radiator for small leak,after you park,take a flash light,open the hood and search for coolant signs.Check your oil level,(normal.or higher -leak into engine oil possible), look of the oil itself,smell it,etc.

 

i will check again. Is the engine supposed to be cold when determining the oil level or after I have driven it?

Also now the temp temp gauge does fluctuate while being driven. Never let it get too hot, too paranoid of ruining the car even more, ran it up the road to the store last night and watched the gauge move lol but while driving at slower in traffic speeds, it heated up. Normally runs just below half way mark. AC stops blowing cold air once it hits half way on the gauge or higher. I e only let it get to between the half way and 3/4 marker once the car is moving good it drops back down and AC returns.

Turning on heater and defrost whatever makes no difference to the temp gauge. If that means anything, someone else told me to try that lol

Fans in the car are running and can be seen coming on. So idk bout those being the issue.

 

Check the oil level on cold,or hot engine,doesn't matter. We want to determine if that oil in crankcase is not mixed with coolant,that's first,secondly signs of coolant coming from radiator,hoses,that may be visible,especially when hot engine you turn just off.Hot coolant will be forced by hypothetical,or real pin holes somewhere in cooling system.Did you pay attention to exhaust-is it normal,or visible white smoke is present? Do not drive the truck,we do not know anything,yet. It is easy to screw the engine up,when oil is mixed with coolant.That mixture will kill your engine.

 

ok so car has been sitting for 2 hrs since last time it was cranked up. Engine oil level is between the low and full marks, closer to the low end it's about due for an oil change again. Oil appears to be normal in color, smells like oil to me. Temp gauge is sitting on quarter mark without turning engine over.

Coolant reservoir is back down again when I literally filled the coolant the same day I posted this thread. There is a wet spot underneath the car on the pavement, I hadn't determined whether it's from the AC or if it's coolant. It's a very small spot, nothing I can see dripping and it looks like it's drying up.

Looking from the top top of the engine, I can't see coolant anywhere noticeable. It's difficult for me to be looking underneath the car as I'm about 7 months pregnant lol

 

Take it easy,than,I do not suggest anything that will affect You or baby. What I can tell you is this: I do not have much experience with this thing,but at this mileage it is not uncommon for radiator to leak,especially at the seams,between aluminum core=rectangular part and plastic element covering at the top,or bottom samething,but at the top is higher temp.and will leak at that connection where metal teeth are crimped over plastic lip. Inside there is rubber gasket,that seals that connection,but over the years,that seal gives up,and you will see it -small leak,especially just after hot engine turned off;coolant will be forced at that moment,and is usually easy to spot it with flash light. You do not need to bend to much for it. Have look at it. Be careful

 

From the OP, we can say that the radiator is less than 2 years old
Fans seem to be turning on.

A leak could cause temps to rise
But, driving wouldn't necessarily cool the system back down.

A stuck thermostat would let the engine overheat and also probably wouldn't let the system cool down

A bad water pump could have rusted blades which are worn and causing a minor leak
The turning blades don't pump enough fluid through the system to cool the engine at idle
When driving faster, the pump works much harder and the flow is just enough to cool the engine.

If you see fluids on the ground then can you move the car and then look at the fluid to determine whether it is condensation from the AC or coolant from the cooling system??

Oh, congrats on having a baby!!!!!!

 

New radiator, 2 years old. New radiator 2 weeks old.Example,that got my attention. Good friend of mine has changed leaky radiator very recently.Brand new radiator put in,all was good,price was right,job done right. 2 weeks later,his radiator(brand new) leaks again. Here you go. Almost all rads are made in China or other exotic countries,included Denso. No name ones are most likely junk(quality control-magic word),a good name are control by SS guards,or Gestapo,so they last at least 12 months(time span of guaranty).After that....