Terracan 2005 2.9 diesel timing belt
#1
09-01-2009, 06:40 AM
Terracan 2005 2.9 diesel timing belt
Does anyone has instructions on how to change timing belt, or a diagram indicating alignment for the timing belt on a terracan 2005 2.9 diesel engine
#4
09-15-2009, 03:19 AM
drain and remove radiator and fan shroud, the fan shroud is four 10mm bolts and it splits into two sections (after you unplug coolant and auto cooler hoses, be sure to block auto cooler hoses as they will just keep leaking).
remove both drive belts (serpantine belt and power steer belt)
remove clutch fan and pulley
remove two of the pulleys blocking the timing belt cover (one is an idler and the other is the tensioner pulley, there should be caps on each of them at the centre covering a torx bit)
remove the harmonic balancer, u need to find a rattle gun that will fit between the condenser the harmonic balancer just be careful not to damage the fins on the condenser.
remove balancer
next find a washer about 7 mm thick (at least) and refit the balancer bolt,washer and the new 7mm washer back into the crank sprocket (that extra washer is to stop from crushing the key on the crank sprocket when you refit the bolt without the balancer).
pull off all the 10mm bolts off the timing belt cover. Im not sure how many should be around 12 of them. Pull off covers.
Next turn the motor so as to line the cams up to top dead centre. there is a small notch on the bottom crank sprocket which lines up with a notch/dot on the block (if looking at it head on/at eye level it would be about 11o'clock)
The Exhaust and Inlet cams have marks which should line up horizontally. IF the cams are 180 degrees out the marks line up horizontally but they are on the outside of each cam IT IS NOT TOP DEAD CENTRE, if they are at top dead centre then the horizontal marks are on the inside of each cam.
Also look at the injector pump. there are two big (well not that big) holes on the injector pump pulley. if the motor is at TDC then those holes will line up to threaded holes on the block. If its not lined up, its not at TDC.
When it is TDC put a 10mm bolt through the holes in the injector pump pulley and then into the block to stop the injector pump from spinning/moving.
next use an allen key and a 12mm spanner to loosen the timing belt tensioner.
its a good idea to mark where the tensioner is before you slacken it off just as a point of reference. just use liquid paper or whatever.
crack the 12mm bolt and use the allen key to slacken the tensioner. you will go clockwise to slacken but if you go to far clockwise it will start to tighten again so just find a midpoint.
Note how the timing belt is fitted, draw it somewhere so you know how it goes around the pulleys
Remove timing belt. if ur water pump is leaking nows the time to fix it.
Fit new timing belt. MAKE SURE THAT THE TIMING BELT IS FITTED THE RIGHT WAY ROUND. the writing on the belt should be from left to right, so if you were looking at it from in front of the car you can read the text without having to turn your head upside down. Fitting the timing belt is a massive pain in the ***. Its easiest to fit around crank first, then injector pump and on pulleys up to inlet cam and then exhaust cam so all the slack is on the tensioner side. then fit it around the tensioner. just make sure your cams still line up to tdc.
when timing belt is on tighten up the tensioner. to tighten use allen key and move it downward, when you get to your marked original position go a bit more tighter just until the moving thin, flat wedge on the tensioner lines up directly under the wide round pin on the block which is above the tensioner towards the right. tighten up the 12mm bolt for the tensioner to 24~ Nm
REMOVE THE BOLTS THAT ARE HOLDING THE INJECTOR PULLEY IN PLACE!!!
use a spanner or ratchet to turn the motor over a few times, make sure that ALL CAMS AND MARKS line back up to tdc.
then refit everything in reverse order. when you get to refitting the harmonic balancer and bolt, you need to tighten to 340 to 390~Nm with a torque wrench. To stop the motor from spinning while tightening, remove torque convertor cover and jam a screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear to stop the motor from spinning.
remove both drive belts (serpantine belt and power steer belt)
remove clutch fan and pulley
remove two of the pulleys blocking the timing belt cover (one is an idler and the other is the tensioner pulley, there should be caps on each of them at the centre covering a torx bit)
remove the harmonic balancer, u need to find a rattle gun that will fit between the condenser the harmonic balancer just be careful not to damage the fins on the condenser.
remove balancer
next find a washer about 7 mm thick (at least) and refit the balancer bolt,washer and the new 7mm washer back into the crank sprocket (that extra washer is to stop from crushing the key on the crank sprocket when you refit the bolt without the balancer).
pull off all the 10mm bolts off the timing belt cover. Im not sure how many should be around 12 of them. Pull off covers.
Next turn the motor so as to line the cams up to top dead centre. there is a small notch on the bottom crank sprocket which lines up with a notch/dot on the block (if looking at it head on/at eye level it would be about 11o'clock)
The Exhaust and Inlet cams have marks which should line up horizontally. IF the cams are 180 degrees out the marks line up horizontally but they are on the outside of each cam IT IS NOT TOP DEAD CENTRE, if they are at top dead centre then the horizontal marks are on the inside of each cam.
Also look at the injector pump. there are two big (well not that big) holes on the injector pump pulley. if the motor is at TDC then those holes will line up to threaded holes on the block. If its not lined up, its not at TDC.
When it is TDC put a 10mm bolt through the holes in the injector pump pulley and then into the block to stop the injector pump from spinning/moving.
next use an allen key and a 12mm spanner to loosen the timing belt tensioner.
its a good idea to mark where the tensioner is before you slacken it off just as a point of reference. just use liquid paper or whatever.
crack the 12mm bolt and use the allen key to slacken the tensioner. you will go clockwise to slacken but if you go to far clockwise it will start to tighten again so just find a midpoint.
Note how the timing belt is fitted, draw it somewhere so you know how it goes around the pulleys
Remove timing belt. if ur water pump is leaking nows the time to fix it.
Fit new timing belt. MAKE SURE THAT THE TIMING BELT IS FITTED THE RIGHT WAY ROUND. the writing on the belt should be from left to right, so if you were looking at it from in front of the car you can read the text without having to turn your head upside down. Fitting the timing belt is a massive pain in the ***. Its easiest to fit around crank first, then injector pump and on pulleys up to inlet cam and then exhaust cam so all the slack is on the tensioner side. then fit it around the tensioner. just make sure your cams still line up to tdc.
when timing belt is on tighten up the tensioner. to tighten use allen key and move it downward, when you get to your marked original position go a bit more tighter just until the moving thin, flat wedge on the tensioner lines up directly under the wide round pin on the block which is above the tensioner towards the right. tighten up the 12mm bolt for the tensioner to 24~ Nm
REMOVE THE BOLTS THAT ARE HOLDING THE INJECTOR PULLEY IN PLACE!!!
use a spanner or ratchet to turn the motor over a few times, make sure that ALL CAMS AND MARKS line back up to tdc.
then refit everything in reverse order. when you get to refitting the harmonic balancer and bolt, you need to tighten to 340 to 390~Nm with a torque wrench. To stop the motor from spinning while tightening, remove torque convertor cover and jam a screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear to stop the motor from spinning.
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