Parasitic Draw on Azera 2006
 

Hello All. My wife's car is an Azera 2006 and is currently experiencing some issues with a parasitic battery drain. I went through some troubleshooting and the two fuses that were draining the battery were the Memory 15A and Audio-1 15A fuses. The audio fuse is not one that i'm too worried about, but the memory fuse plays a part in a lot of the cars internal components such as Data Link connector, A/C Control Module, Instrument cluster, Multi-function switch, Tilt & Telescopic module, BCM, Door warning switch, Room lamp, Left/Right foot lamp, and Door lamp.

I was hoping for some advice on how to troubleshoot these items, especially those that are more common. I've done a lot of generic google searching and came across some similar issues but they haven't seemed applicable to me at this point or the links didn't work on the thread I was reading. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

(For reference, photo below is of the driver's side fuse box. The missing fuses are the ones that needed to be pulled.)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...b5eabf4c02.jpg

Sometimes we find a common problem and that saves a lot of time and trouble.
But, when there is not too much to go by, we have to isolate each system on the fused circuit to determine which is the culprit. Sometimes we hit the problem right away and other times it can be among the last system you checked. Sometimes a code will provide some direction and save some time. I wish there was an easier answer for this , but I haven't come across one yet

It's just odd...I've pulled every single fuse except for that Memory one and the current draw remains. I'm not entirely sure how I can isolate certain sub-systems that are powered by this fuse. I was hoping there would be a fuse for indoor lighting, one maybe for instrument cluster and telescopic module, etc. but there isn't. Kind of at a loss at this point.

How did you test for drain?
The modern car needs time for all the modules to shut down
BCM, body control module, require some at least 20 minutes
And, for you to know what fuse does what, you have to have a schematic
So, you should be able to isolate the other circuits.
Cutting certain color wires or taking apart connectors???

Have you done a visual inspection or wiring looms?
Any wiring looms near AC pipes or exhaust manifold or metal??

Sorry for the lengthy post ahead.

The very first thing I did was disconnect the negative terminal and then put my multimeter in series to measure current. Starting with the fuses under the car hood, I picked them out and measured current (230-280 mA) until I got to the 30A I/P fuse, which resulted in a measured current of 0.01 mA. In other words, when I pulled this fuse, the parasitic draw reduced to nearly zero.

I looked up the I/P fuse and it provides powers the inside driver's side fuse panel. The fuses in this box appear to almost entirely contain internal functions (internal lights, audio, seat warmer, etc). I pulled every fuse out of that box and put them in one at a time. The two fuses that resulted in a supposed parasitic draw were Audio-1 and Memory.

Earlier today, I discovered that when you reattach the battery leads the CD player will start to cycle through to determine which slots have a CD and which ones don't. When I measured for parasitic draw, it's very possible that part of the current I measured was actually just the CD player recognizing there was a current and trying to draw from it.

With regards to the Memory fuse, my only guess as of now is what you mentioned above...namely that it could be the security system or BCM trying to kick on when I take my parasitic current draw measurements and NOT waiting the 20 minutes. I looked over all the wiring I could see and nothing seemed frayed, damaged, or in/on a hot or cold process line.

The method you are using to pin down a parasitic draw is not the best.way to do this.

Some circuit systems will reset and then provide false info because the system reset after you replaced the pulled fuse.

You need to do voltage drop testing across each fuse while the draw is present, without allowing the circuit to reset. Also as avisitor suggested, you should wait at least 45 min to 1 hour for all modules to go into sleep mode at which time with all modules in sleep mode you should have under 50 ma current draw..

Disconnecting anything like removing a battery cable to insert an amp meter, can provide false info and send you on a wild goose chase.

May I suggest a shot in the dark because it is simple and costs nothing. One of the most common parasitic drains in Hyundai of that period is related to the alarm system. All doors, trunk and hood need to tell the system that they are closed. Only then the alarm system can go in active mode. If one proximity switch fails to send the signal the system will try over and over to engage and thus drain the battery. In my son's car the rubber stop for the hood was missing. In my friend's Elantra the rubber stop was there but needed a shim to make the contact. It may be worthwhile to check this first.

Dead battery
 

Took to local shop put on computer came back as driver door module stuck my question is does this finding draw on battery causing it to go dead

Do you have a copy of the owner's manual ?
If you do, in there it should tell you which components /circuits are protected by which fuse. Now, if you did that and as posted in your first post and listed just which components /circuits are involved that is where we need to start.
If,,,,,,,,,, the info received from the check of what codes were in the computer are correct, now you start with each item listed and either disconnect it from the circuit
or check it for possible malfunction. So,,,,,,,we can start with the driver's door module. To confirm it is actually going into sleep mode remove any thing like a key fob if you use one, from the proximity of the vehicle and wait for it to go into sleep mode, another 45-60 minutes. (That is why diagnostic time gets so expensive) Can we do this?

Same model, Same parasitic draw, same fuse
 

Has anyone figured out a more definitive answer. I tested using an ohm meter following the steps in this video and when removing the 15A memory fuse, I go from drawing 1v with the negative terminal disconnected to drawing .008V when that fuse is removed. That’s the extent of my YouTube training unfortunately.
I should also add on top of the battery going dead every so often, the car alarm will randomly start going off-not sure if that’s related or pertinent but figured it was worth mentioning.