So everything seems to work except it doesn't want to start when I turn the key. SOLUTION? - Pull the starter relay and insert spade terminals into starter in and starter out, run cable thru' the window to a hand-held switch on the passenger seat!!! (I'm mobile but not happy!!)

Everything checks out, relay works, fuses, control ground. ONLY THING is that there seems to be only 11+V on the control input to the relay!! Will 11V operate starter relay? Is that my problem? Where to look next?

I am posting this here because it will be the same across many models. mine is 2007 Tucson 2.6 AWD with an after-market alarm (Compustar)

 

Sorry, should have said starter relay not solenoid

 

So you basically by-passed the starter relay
This proves the load side of the relay is functioning
Means the control has the issue.
The pins on the control side should have one pin that is Hot when key is turned to the on position
When the key is turned to crank, the other pin of the control side should be pulled to ground to activate the relay
Do you hear or feel the click?
Have you tried starting the engine with the transmission in neutral?
Did you try swapping relays?

 

11V should be good Do you have another relay in the fuse box that is the same to try a swap? is there a way to bypass the alarm, an after market alarm has been the source of many problems for more than a few people

 

Does not click when installed but clicks and checks out on the bench. The relays are not interchangeable and there are no replacement relays in any dealer in town!!! Relay $33, just ordered one, be in Thursday. Worth it just because. Voltage is strange though!
Yes, the ground side is good. I might try jumpering to the relay with a couple of spades just to check the contacts. That way I can put a meter on them to make sure the current is there.They were corroded and it is difficult to get anything in the sockets to clean them. I was trying to get 11V from an old battery just to see if that's the problem, but I can't simulate that voltage.

Oh and yes, tried it in neutral. We have a good ground side every time I have checked. I'll go thru' it again though.
Got a call in to the alarm guys to see what they can tell me.

 

I usually put a little oil or grease on corroded terminals, and remove / insert the relay a few times, it usually fixes the bad connection. maybe flush with contact cleaner could help also.

 

Would be careful with the control side of relay!!
You do not want to accidentally burn out the ECU.
If you get 11 volts on control side pin and other pin is grounding then it should work.
The only thing I can think of voltage drop. Corrosion is causing voltage drop or limiting the current draw.
Which in turn makes the relay useless. Swapping relay should give you a definite answer

 

Thanks avisitor, I'll definitely keep that in mind - already burnt out the main fuse with a careless touch on the wrong battery terminal!!!

UPDATE...

Tried a few things everything checks out but the 11V constant on the control side of the relay is a worry. Wired a remote switch to the starter sides of the relay and starts just fine. I was fine with that while I wait for a new relay until...

Got hold of the Alarm guy;he says the relay should operate all the way down to 9.1V - you can test it with a 9V battery. Yeah, it clicks!! So I pull it apart and the points look good and they are closing - I get continuity with 9V.

Time to start over? Pull the cover and my patch. Ground is good. Put my meter on the control "in" side and turn on the ignition, get 11someV. Turn it off and notice I still have voltage - 10.25V. Turn the ignition off, check my meter connections, ignition on - 10.25V! Turn to "Start" - 12V!!!! Check it all with a second meter, put the relay back in, turn the ignition........ STARTS FIRST TURN!!

Is this just a bad dream? If I have 10.25V it should crank as I insert the relay?

I can accept that I was sidetracked by the corroded contacts but none of this is making sense to me. Obviously I need to bypass the Park/Neutral switch - I think I know how to get at that. And then there is the ignition switch itself. That's going to be a bitch!!

First things first.. I put the relay back in (cover off), ignition in "run" 10.25V across the control circuit BUT the points are still open. Turn the key and the car starts. So I have 10.25V but not enough amperage to operate the coil? The control circuit could be draining the battery. Oh Dear....

Okay, let's ignore the drain problem. It hasn't been a problem except when we had been away for a couple of months 2 years ago. Maybe I actually used that much just testing?? So it will drain if the relay is in there but we can deal with that later.

So I think that the 11V on the control side, when I turn the key must also be too little amperage to activate the relay. Then sometimes I am getting the full amperage (ergo 12V) and it starts.

So the relay is fine. I can replace the PARK switch but I don't think that is the problem; The ignition switch might be causing it with a very bad contact but most likely is the alarm system? That's money 'cause I can't do that myself and the local dealer didn't install it so not too pleased to service it!! It's an aftermarket alarm system, so maybe cheaper that Hyundai to fix?

It is (not) nice to be different!!! I'll keep you posted...

 

It is not the park/neutral safety switch.
And, it is not the relay itself

You are not getting the proper voltage and/or current for the relay to operate (no click while in relay socket)
The problem seems to be corrosion on the fuse box pins are preventing current flow.
Sometimes just taking a set of pliers and twisting (bending) the blade (of the relay) just a little can make better contact.
If that fails then must take the layer which holds the fuses off the fuse box and look underneath.
The wiring can look daunting. But, just be careful and examine the pins and wires connections
Might be a good idea to disconnect the battery to prevent accidental damage

 

I'm going for the ignition switch. Stories of the grease breaking down and combining with copper off the contacts. That might explain the low amperage leak. Its a 2007, LOTS of miles on it and I'm betting the original switch. So probably worth changing anyway and I think I have to do that as part of my search to solve the drain. New Switch will be in Monday, I'll let you know. If that doesn't solve the drain I will go after the burglar alarm! Might even be cheaper to just get it replaced!! It's after-market and I don't know who installed it, they are probably out-of-Province anyway.

Right now the car is running just fine, so I can't even diagnose the non-start problem. I like your idea of twisting the spades though. Hadn't thought of that and even my smallest file won't go in there without a struggle. So hard to get them tight again after cleaning. I might even replace the socket later - I see that we can buy that separate.