Hello,

Sorry in advance for all the details but this is second hand info as I'm trying to help my Aunt out and I'm not sure what's relevant/not. Thanks! My Aunt is having a problem and I'm really hoping you can help with it. She and my uncle are older and have gone through some really bad times lately due to the recession, so I'm desperately trying to help her with her car problems. She has a 2007 Accent with around 70,000 miles on it. She had a check engine light come on and called her dealership immediately. They told her it wasn't flashing so she could keep driving but needed to bring it in. She mentioned that after this occurred her car would stall out every time she got gas. But ONLY when she got gas. She said if she pumped it a couple times it would start and she wouldn't have any other problems until next gas fill up.

I think (from what I gathered from talking to her) that because she was not under warranty anymore she did not take it in right away. Two weeks ago she was driving and the check engine started flashing and the car started driving weird. She said she immediately pulled over and had it towed home. Apparently she then had AAA tow it to the dealership and they claimed it was bad sparkplugs and I think wires (not sure on the 2nd part) and she had them replace it. I know you can look up the codes to check what errors they are but she didn't have that with her when she called me. I think I can get them if crucial though.

3 to 4 days (I think) later she was driving home from the class she teaches and apparently the light started flashing up again. She pulled over and it stopped and went off. She started the car again and everything was fine. Then it went on/off in intervals. She called my uncle and had him come drive it with her. Apparently the check engine light flashes when accelerating past a certain point, she said going from 3 to 4 on the rpm meter, but that's one area I don't know about so hopefully that makes sense?? She said if she gently and slowly applied the gas and built up it was fine, but that pushing the gas pedal to hard or up an incline made the light flash on and the shifting seemed troubled. This is an automatic by the way. The weird thing is she explained that once the car got up to the next speed, the light either went solid or off completely.

I asked her about maintenance, etc. I know she's good about oil changes, tires, etc. cause we often talk about things like that when I check in with her every couple First she told me she has all the paperwork in a file detailing all the routine work done. I told her to check when her transmission was serviced, fluid changed, etc. to see what was done. When I called back she said she found the maintenance records but couldn't find one with the info on the transmission. She's pretty sure she remembers it being done around 40,000-ish miles but the dealership she use to go closed down and she can’t verify this. Then she mentioned that her last oil change (almost 3,000 miles ago), they told her that the tranny fluid was dark and needed to be changed at the next oil change. She was due to receive this service in about 100 miles or so more she said.

I did a little research and from what I've found, she was supposed to have it done at 30,000 and again at 60,000. I believe she only did the one change, assuming she did do it and isn't just remembering it wrong. My aunt is very honest and would tell me straight up if she didn't do it, but she's also a bit senile at times and doesn't always remember things like that. I talked to a friend who works at a Kia dealership about this and he said if there was dirty fluid or no proof of maintenance that they didn't honor the warranty.

Here are my concerns:

1) Should she take the car to the dealership with her fluid being dirty or should she have it changed (NOT flushed as I've heard that's the worst thing to do at this point) first?

2) If she takes the car to the dealership with dirty fluid, will it in fact void the power train warranty if it ends up being a transmission issue?

3) IF she cannot find the paperwork to prove she did indeed have the tranny fluid changed, will this void her power train warranty with the dealership? I know she has tons of paperwork showing all her other work (oil changes, tires, brakes, batteries, etc.) so would having that be enough proof she keeps the car under regular maintenance or will they demand to see the transmission related stuff?

4) Is there a way to pull up old service work from a dealership that is no longer is business, ie do other dealers have access to check this for her so she can prove work was done?

Not sure how the dealership missed the transmission issues since it was just in there but maybe they don't double check everything and just go by the codes?

Anyone that works at or knows someone who works at a Hyundai dealership I am especially interested in hearing from if possible. Thank you in advance for ANY help you guys can give me!

 

ok here's some tips for you:

- first and foremost we need to know what those error codes are. nobody can do much of anything here without knowing what that computer is reporting.

- i would like to know the resolution of the problem, i am having a similar problem with my accent. misfires on the same cylinder only at idle and after i gas up. i think i've traced it down to the PCSV but hey more info is always better.

- with the trans fluid, its ALWAYS good to change. saying that its not a good idea after it gets dirty is nothing but a bullcrap myth. total garbage.

- judge for yourself if its clean or not with this ghetto backyard trick: put some fluid from the trans dipstick on your fingers. should look cherry red, not brown or worse black. rub it between your fingers, should be a smooth oil and not gritty. finally smell it. should not smell burnt. if it fails any of those 3 simple tests its time to get the trans flushed.

- ask how the shop does it. many just drop the pan and refill. this is not the proper method, as it leaves a LOT of dirty fluid still in the cooler and the torque converter. some will only flush with the lines and leave the filter inside. that needs to be changed too as well as the pan cleaned. they should be doing both.

- in answer to question 2: possibly. they'd have to prove that the problem is due to her maintenance and not a manufacturing issue that should be covered under warranty. worst case scenario is having to argue about it and then go to small claims court for the cost of the repair. you'd win, but it's going to be hassle.

-question 3: depends on the dealer. also consider a cheaper 3rd party mechanic, that will not void warranty and should save you a little money.

- question 4: there will be records, but its going to be VERY difficult to get your hands on them. you'd have to try to find the original shop owner is my guess.

 

Btw thanks for the replies I've gotten on here and PM. You guys are great!

Ok update:

Apparently the codes start with a P? My aunt said there is no P code for the original issue on her invoice for the spark plugs work, but she forgot they said there was a warranty issue. "ECM UPDATE P0300" was on the invoice as no charge.

Now, my Aunt just took it to Pep Boys since it's already acting up again to check the codes. This is the code: P0301 cylinder 1 misfire. Does that help?

Also, my Aunt said she was really worried about not having the light flash since Pep Boys was several miles away. So she drove carefully, but did go the speed limit. She said she was able to slowly accelerate so the rpms barely went to or above 3000. This seemed to be fine with no flashing light this time.*

Here's what she and my uncle have determined from driving it the past few days:

When the issue first reoccurred after they brought it back from the dealership service, when the check engine light was flashing it would be for 10 seconds or so and then would either go off or stay on (solid). Now it's staying on solid.

When she accelerated slow, and stayed below 3000 rpms then it would not flash, regardless of her speed.

When she did go up a small hill and even with very slow/gentle acceleration the light flashed for 10 seconds and the car thrust a little then was fine and the light went solid again.

Also, when she did have to accelerate on level road past 3000 rpms the car did the slight thrust thing, light flashed for 10 seconds, car shifted over the 3000 and then it was fine once back below it.*

Also she mentioned one more thing but I have no idea if this was occurring before and she didn't notice, or if it just started. She said at some lights, not all, she'd feel a slight tremor forward, very slight, but not every time.

 

wow that tells me that you have the exact same filling up/misfire problem i have. same thing, mostly at idle. yes there is a VERY slight tremor at times, thats a result of the cylinder missing. i have noticed the same symptoms but have not yet been able to determine the cause. and yes i get the same code!

the light coming on and off is nothing to be concerned about, thats just how the computer reports it.

my theory is that it is linked to the EVAP system or possibly the PCSV...sometimes i get P0441 with it as well. however, i have not once had a stalling problem. and there is not guarantee that the P0441 is related or not, i just believe it to be and have not been able to narrow it down thus far.

i'm hoping someone else can help here!! i've been trying to figure out this one for ages. provided its the same thing, here's what i can provide for info:

-only occurs immediately after filling the tank, gas cap on or off does not make a difference.

-misfire seems to occur mostly at idle, yes sometimes going up a hill

-sometimes i get P0441 with it (improper evap purge flow, related to the PCSV) but cannot verify if its related for sure. i suspect that it is.

- its not a sensor or the fuel pump, i have tested that.

-always misfires on cylinder 1.

- does this for a shot time and then after it disappears. if the car is left off it will not happen or continue to happen after its started up later.

- also not a problem with any cracked hoses or the fuel filter, checked that too!