Your answer depends on how expensive the scanner is. I have a cheap Innova scanner I got from Walmart for less than $100 a couple of years ago that's pretty simple...and cryptic. Error codes are listed on the Hyundai service site, except no codes are provided for 2000 to 2003 Accents. The codes for the CKPS are consistent for 1999 and 2004 models, so expect either a P0335 or P0336 code. P0335 means no signal and you will need to check voltage and ground on the harness and resistance on the sensor with an multimeter. P0336 can mean an improperly adjusted sensor or bad target on the flywheel, but most likely a dead sensor. The codes are provided under the DTC tab on the service site.

Most of the veteran forum members would simply say "replace the sensor and move on".

 

I went to autozone last night after work and rented a Actron Diagnostic Scanner through their Loan-A-Tool program (free, you only pay a deposit which you get back when you return tools). The scanner instructions said that codes would either be listed as PD or MIL. (Pending Condition or Malfunction Indicator Lamp AKA CEL). Sure enough, the scanner displayed code 1 of 1: P0335 - CrankShaft Position Sensor Malfunction. It gave the code, plus a description. I used the scanner to test the sensor (it does that as well) and the sensor is dead. I went ahead and did that last night so I could order a new sensor and have it by this weekend, since it's a special order part. It wasn't too much trouble to check codes, and I wanted to be certain it was the sensor before I spend $54.00 even though I'd already tested spark and don't have any. I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks a bunch!

Stephen

 

OK: Update, I got the new sensor installed (wasn't hard at all, lucky I have small hands!) and the car still refuses to start!

Turns and turns and now I'm smelling fuel too, where I wasn't before.

Battery and alternator tested, both are good.

Code went away after replacing sensor. Car doesn't display any codes now. It's almost like something in the ignition is disabled?

any suggestions? I am trying hard not to have it towed, but I'm running out of time.

 

Check for spark, it sounds like there isn't any. I'd then check every fuse with an ohmmeter in both fuseboxes, particularly fuse #5 under the dash and fusible link-F under the hood. It never hurts to double check the harnesses under the hood to make sure none were pulled loose while replacing the CPKS.


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OK, this is really weird. I didn't have much time this weekend, other than to change the CKP sensor on Friday afternoon. We all know that the car didn't start. Saturday, the car didn't start either. Sunday, nope. Monday, I gave up. I called a tow truck to tow it to the Hyundai dealer. I go outside and put the key in the ignition for the tow man, and tried once more. Fired right up. At first, it was hesitant to fire but did crank. I turned it off and tried it again. Fired up again, but shook a little then smoothed out. Ran some errands around town and now it's firing up smoothly every time.

I still don't trust this car. It has a mind of its own. I won't be going off on long distances until I know for sure that it's running right.

The thing is...once I replaced the CKP sensor, the error code went away on its own immediately, without me having to clear it. Subsequent readings from the OBDII scanner showed "NO CODES FOUND - PASSED".[:@]

But it still would not crank. So I'm going to drive it a week or so and see what happens.

At least now it's running. Decided to run AFTER I'd already called a tow and made arrangements for the dealer to diagnose the problem.[:'(]

At least now I can use my gas. Right before it quit, I'd filled the tank completely up and only gone a mile when it died at my house. And with gas prices, I had to drive my other car which has an even larger tank[]

 

I'm glad you got it running. Since there are no codes being generated, I suggest a basic tune up and perhaps run some injector cleaner through it and change the fuel filter.

Good luck.

 

Well that's the thing....I just did all new wires and plugs last month.

Other than that, and a new K&N air filter, I can't think of anything else to tune up. My old car required wires, plugs, distributor, rotor and cap for a full tuneup. This one doesn't have all that. I'll do the fuel filter next, and the injector cleaner. Time is my major problem here, I just don't have a lot of it right now.

Oh and the car only has 54K. You'd think it wouldn't need that much of a tuneup [:-]

 

the main relay for the efi system is no good. it's mounted on the driver's kick panel. water gets in it and it goes bad. you have to remove the under dash to access it.

 

OK, the saga continues. I got the car back from the dealer on the 14th. He replaced the positive battery cable and claimed that it was corroded internally, causing the crank sensor to not get enough voltage to start the car. Makes sense to me. Sunday, the 16th, the wife and I drove it down to New Orleans to the port to set sail on a 7 day Carribean cruise (A belated honeymoon - we were married in December). Car didn't want to start at first Sunday, but we were in a hurry to leave, so I took it anyway since the baggage was loaded in the car. Car ran fabulous. Got a personal best of 35.5 MPG highway with the AC on part of the way down to New Orleans. This was cruising at 68-70 MPH babying the right foot and not being hard in my driving.

Sunday, the 23rd, we arrived back in New Orleans, car had been sitting for a week. Didn't want to crank. I tried for a minute and it finally fired. It was semi-cold (in the 60's when we got off the ship in NOLA). Car ran great, and fired up as long as it was hot.

This morning: It's about 40 degrees out. It's only the second day I've tried to drive the car since I got it back. CAR WILL NOT CRANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It turns and turns and turns but will not fire. I'm SO ****. I called the dealer and told him as soon as I get it cranked when it warms up I'm bringing it back to him and he can have it until it is cranking the first time every time.

I want to keep this car, I really do.

But I've never had a car that gave me such fits before. Ever. Even my 18 year old Chrysler that I drive as a backup when this one quits on me cranks the first time, every time and has never left me stranded - take that HYUNDAI!

I love this car, it gets terrific MPG and it has relatively low miles for it's age but I need something trustworthy.

In the past month, it has:

New Positive Battery cable and terminal

Crankshaft Position Sensor


Plugs

Wires

K&N Air Filter (It was doing this before I installed the air filter)


(As for the EFI relay, I smell gas when the car is trying to crank. It's getting gas! Would this still effect it? OBDII Scanner is not showing ANY codes. It only showed the CPK sensor code which went away when I replaced the sensor.)

 

Well sure enough....as I thought...once it warmed up into the 60's around lunch time, the car cranked. It won't crank when cold, I've figured that much out. I drove it to the dealer and we'll let it sit overnight to see if they can re-produce the problem, so they can diagnose while it's not cranking.

Scanner is not showing any new codes.

The 60K mile service coming up, and the possibility of automatic transaxle failure in the future has gotten me thinking. I haven't ever had a bit of trougble with the auto tranny, but I've read report after report of people who have. I have kept mine flushed and serviced.

I love the 35MPG highway but I need a reliable car. So it may be time to trade it in on a new(er) manual Accent or another small car.