2010 Accent overheated. No start
 

2010 Accent overheated. Some how a alternator tensioner bolt came loose And the belt broke. The car overheated. Now it turns over but will not start. Any things we can check or look for? Thanks

Also, changed timing belt and water pump a month ago

Depending upon how badly the engine over heated, the head gasket could have busted??
Or when the belt snapped, the timing belt jumped a tooth or two??

Go back to basics
Check for spark, fuel pump, injector pulse, compression, timing, air, exhaust, etc

Two things you need to do first.
A compression test and a cooling system pressure test
Here is why, Your vehicle has an interference engine and if the belt breaks and the engine is turning over, "It will bend some valves preventing good compression.".
Also, if the overheating was severe enough ,as avisitor stated, and the head gasket is now a problem, a cooling system pressure test should show with the loss of pressure

From the sound of things, you will need a rebuilt head assy, head gasket set, belt, coolant, thermostat.. and probably a water pump. There are no shortcuts, and what you don't replace now will fail shortly up the road. Engine heads will develop a warped condition after overheating and should be replaced.

Will every cyl loose compression? All you need is 2 cyl to run a 4 banger. I’d think it will make new sounds if I hit a valve. He’s about 150 miles away. No cel codes while he cranks. I asked him to see what his scanner shows for sensors while he cranks it over. My hope is that the alt belt broke and tangled with crank sensor cable. I’m an eternal optimist. Does The tach bounce on these cars when you crank? I’m not sure why timing belt might jump dues to over heat Thanks for your thoughts

Don't know what tools are available where he is,
Can you tell him how to check for spark? If he has spark, crank sensor is working.

Trying to run it on 2 cyl for 150 miles, you might as well order another engine now.

Also It might be cheaper to have it repaired where it is as compared to trying to drive it and wiping out the engine all together.
Scan tool is not too useful in this case, just need to do basic checks and even then how much can he handle ?

Going on a rescue. To Colman Alabama. Drop of a car . Maybe I’ll figure it out. Hope it’s not dead

Thanks for the update, let us know what you find.

My Son says the last thing the Accent did when he pulled over was that a huge white cloud came out of exhaust. I think that confirms the worst. Are Shade tree head gasket repairs very successful on these little engines? I’ve done 3 on other cars.

The white smoke is a sign coolant got into the combustion chamber(s).
Don't know if oil was contaminated.
Driving it in it's present condition,If it will even start, could be wishful thinking.
Might be a good idea to wait and see what you have before fearing the worst.

We dragged the Accent 150 miles with 16 year old Toyota Sienna. I pulled the pugs they are smothered in oil. So far I don’t see any oil and water mix. Strange to have oil in the spark plug tubes.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...5a0985d3c.jpeg
Coilpack and plugs are all oilly
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Yes. We have spark, I can hear fuel pump wrrr when I turn key on. There is 12 volts to injectors . I need to figure out compression Check. Any ideas

Oil in radiator water. I watched a YouTube and it looks like a head gasket job is in the for see able future

How many plugs were surrounded with a lot of oil?
Oil pressure is the highest and one of the way oil can get into the combustion chamber is via head gasket.
You most likely will need to open up the engine , head removal to get abetter idea of the extent of the problem.

Ya. We cooked this baby. I’m going to pull the head off. See how bad the warp is. Probably need a rebuilt head. Or an engine . The coil packs tips are melted from heat. I’m surprised it did not burn up. Valve seals must be toast. It’s kinda worth fixing. Just not sure I want to do it....

As you know excess heat can change a lot of tolerances in an engine and doesn't stop with just the head. Pistons and rings can also be affected. You have some homework to do with this one.
Repair, completely the present engine, exchange it for another salvage, rebuilt, or remanufactured . I guess a lot will depend on $$$ available and whether the vehicle is worth the investment, tough decision.

Thx Hanky, I’m going to pull the head and see what’s up and start looking for a wrecked car with an engine. Best case is resurface head. Have you seen many these Engines Fixed or is there a common consensus that I should just engine swap. Mike

As you know , it's a crapshoot, hoping everything will be OK with a head swap.
Depending on how hot it got, for how long will have a bearing on the outcome. As mentioned previously, after all is back together , up the road it will start burning oil due to possible piston and ring damage. Repair and unload, trade, hold on to it until what if anything happens ? Kinda iffy,

Got back from Fla. finally got manifolds un
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...d2cf984e6.jpeg
bolted. This is a picture of the camshaft bearingS. They are covered with cooked oil carbon. Any one seen this before and saved the engine? I need to buy a 1/2 inch 8 mm Allen socket and we can see what horror lies within.

Our first thoughts are ,beyond help.
But depending on circumstances, you might get away with an exchange head and other supplemental parts, water pump, hoses,thermostat , belts, oil& filter etc.Don't know condition of radiator.
Circumstances might include; just till schooling is done, available $$ and time, replacement vehicle available and so on.

Thx Hanky, I ended up cutting a 8mm Allen wrench and used a socket. I had to remove cam to get to head bolts. Head is wiggling a little. There may be something still attached under the intake. I need my cherry picker. Which is at a friends house . The head is about 12 inches high! Looks heavy! This is my first Timing belt double overhead cam head gasket job.

if the piston look ok, I may look for a rebuilt head or an engine.

I’m hoping the block surface is ok.

I can alwaysvvJust smooth the head surface , throw a head gasket in and see how bad it smokes.

You're really brave.
Maybe my thoughts run along some different lines. You know the head has had it, Speaking for myself and a lot of guys I know, we dislike with a passion doing a job over, what is worse it doing it on your own vehicle because you don't get paid the first time and talk about hurt, it really hurts to have to do a job over because you considered a shortcut. No one knows your situation better than you, and maybe you will get lucky.

Your right Hanky, this ain’t no vw bug. We once blew a piston at the beach. Pulled motor, took it home, removed bad piston. Stuck motor back in at beach and ran it As a 3banger all summer!

I need to find a tutorial for this 2010. I’m following a great YouTube for head gaskets on an earlier 1.6 with out coil packs.

do you know if I can get this head off by un bolting intake the intake manifold In engine bay?

I decided that the intakE had be completely off. hurray! The head is now off ! I’m surprised at all the oil everywhere. Maybe it blew an oil gasket?? I read It’s a 3rd generation 1.6 MP1. 2005 to 2011 engine . Next move. Clean it. And see if block top is straight. Cylinder walls look good
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...8e54181ba.jpeg
Pic of pistons after removing head


any other checks to verify if the bottom end is ok?

Ouch !
What does the oil dip stick look like and smell like and how much oil is left in the engine?
The piston on the left side in the picture does not look good at all. The other three seem fairly dry ,but that last one may tell you there is more damage than can be seen.
Can you see anything to explain how all the oil got all over the piston?
I can't tell for sure, but is it just the picture or did the pistons get that pretty shade of blue from high heat ? If it is from heat,.wouldn't consider any further work on that engine.
What do you think?

Cleaned up with paper towel. Kinda looks ok. Maybe engine was over filled with oil when it blew? Or oil boiling in pan? I’ll drain oil and see if metal is in pan. Thoughts. Any bottom end checks to try
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My question is how did so much oil get on the head gasket?
Are the valve guides leaking oil?
Is the head gasket ok? Any breaks?
PCV or EGR stuck?
Sorry, just makes me wonder what was causing the oil to do that??

After cleaning up the oil, the top of the cylinders and pistons looks ok?
So, are re-using the old head or putting in another one?

Hanky, The oil every where is crazy. The dip stick shows an inch over full mark. I’m pretty sure my kid added oil after it blew and him and is friends cranked and cranked trying to get it to start. When I got It, I did some cranking checking for spark and fuel. Would the extra oil and all the cranking with a warped head gasket cause the oil splatter?

Something you might look for, you would need to check and make sure you found an oil passage up from the block to the head .I can't offer any suggestion where it might be located because I don't know. Once you have determined where the oil passage is located , that might help answer how all the oil got all over everything.
As more time goes by , you will probably get a more accurate description of exactly what happened and what was done. You have your hands full and I hope all your hard work will pay off, but right now it seems there is a lot of mystery surrounding this whole thing. Good thing you like this kind of work or don't you ? lol

Were you able to get any info on the coolant and if any was added?
If you pulled the oil pan drain plug , did any coolant come out first?
I believe it would be a good idea to drop the oil pan and see what you have.
We don't know if there was a hydrostatic lock with all the oil in the cyls. If so could have a bent rod. Here is where the shortcut appears and could influence the result of the job. Even f the head appears OK, there could be a crack somewhere and blow the whole job. Most of the time I decided to gamble with a job , I regretted it. Some folks are just lucky and that is why I don't play the lottery . lol.
How wiuld you feel if after you buttoned everything up and after starting the engine you heard a rod knock ? You can see where this is going , right?

Hanky, I drained the oil yesterday, it smelled burned, No metal shavings , no coolant in the oil. I did have oil in the radiator water. Which was unusual. My Son says the car was going ok and when steam came out the hood he stopped. He heard no loud knocking noise. Wouldn’t a knock be heard when I was cranking it?

in the front middle head passage holes there was a little spring in it with a lot of carbon. Is that something you have seen?


theres a shop in Chattanooga that does heads and engines and they want to look at the head befor we go and buy a rebuilt one
I’ll go Monday if all goes well.

Picture of block with little spring. There is a little ball in the hole with spring on top. The spring is on left side, outer hole. I bent it a little digging it out.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...9a136741b.jpeg

I don't know for sure, but appears to be a type of check valve, maybe to prevent oil drainback when engine is shut down. That way oil is right up there when starting.

I’m back, Took too long to rebuild head $390. F me. The gasket set box was open. No head bolts. Reorder.. then it was back ordered. I ended up spendind 40 bucks for 10 bolts at Advance Auto. So far out $500. Head is on. Working on torque head bolt. One bolt is acting stiff, Going to check if it full carbon in the hole.

I realize we are trying to get the job done for the lowest expense. By the time you get the right parts and the amount of time without the use of the vehicle and all that "stuff" sometimes it pays to get the things you need from the dealer There you will pay a little more, but you get the right parts, ALL of them, the same time with no aggravation.
Most folks only see the the cost of the parts, but don't take into consideration the aggravation of getting the wrong parts, multiple trips , well, you know what I'm trying to say.
Some aftermarket parts are OK, while some are not that hot.
Thanks for the update.

I striped out a cam cap thread. How do fix this?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...f46b8195b.jpeg

Look into helix coils??

Heli coils, or thread inserts either way.
vid:

aug 2, 2020. I had some threads at the bottom of those stripped cam caps Got some longer bolts To reach in deeper and washers and seems to be tight. We got it together and it started and idled wonderfully. I boggered the timing belt and had to bur another one. I got a hand full of wire holding brackets I forgot wear they went. I also have a gasket that I don’t know wear it goes. Anyone know what this goes to?
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What does this gasket go to?

You know you are gambling with the longer bolt trick. A heli-coil is the preferred fix especially if the cap comes loose and you lose oil pressure on the road. When you are doing your own vehicle and it goes south,that's a chance you take. Anyone else doing the job and that happens and the cause is because of a shortcut who pays for the engine replacement?
Glad you got it all straightened out. It does look like a gasket for an intake manifold joint.

Your right again Hanky, I watered it up, but the belts on and was checking for leaks and I started hearing a noise in the valve cover. And shut it down. I’ll pop the valve cover and see what’s up.

Let's hope you don't have to pull 1/2 of it apart again.
Usually best if you take your time and double check your steps as you go.
You had your share of problems with this job, I hope your work and efforts are being appreciated.