99 2 door coupe Front Hub/Rotor/Wheel Bearing installation question
Ok so I have trolled all the forumns and found out how to pull the hub and change the rotor. I did all this yesterday.
My hubs came off and wheel bearings and sleeve still attached to them.
I did not take apart the knuckle and bearings and have them re-pressed in. I re packed the bearing with grease then,
I re-assembled and drove the hub back on by using the wheel nut.
so my question is: will that be sufficient or DO I HAVE TO dissasemble the bearing and knuckle and have the bearings re-pressed?
please if anyone has done this let me know if it worked for you.
everything went back together nice and smooth but I heard I can burn up my bearings by doing it that way.
My hubs came off and wheel bearings and sleeve still attached to them.
I did not take apart the knuckle and bearings and have them re-pressed in. I re packed the bearing with grease then,
I re-assembled and drove the hub back on by using the wheel nut.
so my question is: will that be sufficient or DO I HAVE TO dissasemble the bearing and knuckle and have the bearings re-pressed?
please if anyone has done this let me know if it worked for you.
everything went back together nice and smooth but I heard I can burn up my bearings by doing it that way.
I beleive that you have taper roller style bearings, and possibly an oil seal came off with it.
In general, I would prefer to assemble new-lubed bearings and new seals to the knuckle, then press the hub through the asembled knuckle/bearings as an assembly.
Bearings can be had at your local bearing supply/NAPA using the industry number on the bearing and race for a good bit less than dealer... my sis is a service rep with TIMKEN, so I have line inexpensive bearings and seals..
In general, I would prefer to assemble new-lubed bearings and new seals to the knuckle, then press the hub through the asembled knuckle/bearings as an assembly.
Bearings can be had at your local bearing supply/NAPA using the industry number on the bearing and race for a good bit less than dealer... my sis is a service rep with TIMKEN, so I have line inexpensive bearings and seals..
Last edited by sbr711; Mar 24, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
yes they are tapered. and yes there was a seal in front of them, all were in good condition.
I understand new bearing and pressing would be best but since the job is done.
Is it ok I put them back on by using the axle nut without the washer, then I checked them to make sure they were on good and tight and they were..
Just hopping I didn't shortcut myself into trouble later.
I understand new bearing and pressing would be best but since the job is done.
Is it ok I put them back on by using the axle nut without the washer, then I checked them to make sure they were on good and tight and they were..
Just hopping I didn't shortcut myself into trouble later.
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