One cheap service station ruined one of my front wheel bolts by crossthreading the nut while tightening. Does the hub need to be removed to change the bolt? If not, what type of puller is needed to remove the thorned bolt?

Thank you all,

Steppenw7

 

I think the answer is no. Try rotating the wheel around; tI think there is one spot where there is clearance behind and you can just drive the old lug out and replace it with a new one. If the garage damaged it, though, they should fix it.

 

I agree with Doohickie, the service station should pay for the repair. Unfortunately, I wouldn't want the same person or persons that stripped the stud to begin with, performing the repair work.

These studs are mushroomed on one end and pressed into the holes on the wheel hub. They fit extremely tight, but as Doohickie noted, they can be driven out and replaced while on the car. To be honest, I have not replaced one on a Hyundai, but the process has been the same on every front wheel drive car I have replaced them on.

1. Set the parking brake and jack up the front end. Make sure it is securely resting on jack stands or is blocked up. Do not trust a jack since you will be pounding on the car.

2. Remove the wheel, brake caliper and brake disk. Hang the caliber with a piece of wire, do not let it dangle from the brake hose. On most cars the brake disk should just slide off once the caliper is removed, but may have a screw or two holding it to the hub.

3. As Doohickie explained, you need to rotate the hub so that the stud has enough clearance to pop out the back side. Sometimes turning the steering one way or the other helps.

4. Once you know where the stud needs to be positioned, start a lug nut on the bad stud until it's just even with the exposed tip of the stud. This give you a bigger target to hit and keeps the stud from ricocheting around when it's dislodged.

5. The fun part. Put a pair of safety glasses and then smack the stud with a 2 to 3 pound hammer. To each his own for style, but for control (yes, I dented a fender once) I prefer to stand next to the hub with my back towards the car swinging the hammer down in a ~90 degree arc. Don't hit your leg (I've done that too) trying to swing extra hard. The weight of the hammer (maybe with a little assistance) is usually enough force. A smaller hammer may work, but I don't like to repeatedly pound on the steering while trying to loosen the stud. Once the stud is loose, remove the lug nut and finish tapping out the stud.

6. Insert the new stud into the hole on the backside of the hub. There should be splines cut or forged into the shaft of the stud that hold it in place. If possible, try to rotate the stud to match the grooves left by the old splines. Sometimes the stud can be tapped back in place with a hammer and punch, but on some cars there very little working room on the back side. I've pressed them into place using a heavy duty 6 or 8 inch "C" clamp and a 1/2" deep socket. Slide the socket over the threaded end of the new stud protruding from the hub and then clamp the socket and the mushroomed end of the stud together. A drive socket with heavier walls works better for this than a standard walled socket, but I've used both types in the past.

7. Put the brakes back together, install the wheel and torque all the lug nuts down to spec. Retorque the replaced stud after you've driven the car a day or two.

 

Great repot there, way to help out a member...

 

Thank you much for your help guys - I'll let you know how I made out. And you are right, I don't want the same idiot changing the stud at the risk of having to replace the engine!

Steppenw7

 

I had the same thing happen to me last year and the garage never did admi to doing it.

I was able to salvage most of the threadsand did not have to replace the stud.

Thx....

 

Apparently this happens quite often. Mine was "fixed" at dealer's service station.
I hate the dealer (Nemet) who talked my wife into buying extra services (roughly half of the price of the car) (and yes, my wife got her share of %$#@%$!@$#), and we could not twist out of this. So I go there only to change oil "for free" and do not want them to touch anything else. Newertheless they checked brakes, screwed the screw and when I tried to open it, the bolt snapped.

Right now I was surfing/looking for the hub, but it seems that only the bolt could be replaced. Would any bolt do? Is it a standard/generic from autozone (they do not have the hub)or I have to go through a dealer to get it?

TIA

 

All right! Maybe this will help sb who surfs in... Got the part in Autozone.
But I was looking for stud for front, got it and it did not fit (to thick). By a chance the guy showed me the studfor rear and it fitted nicely. It was tiny bit shorter (maybe 1/8), but it didn'tmatter.

Another thing. Behind the rotor, there is a metal plate that covers the cavity in the rotor. I could not figure out how to get the plateoff, so I bent it to the back, and and then again into place. No need to take the hub off. I pulled the stud into place by screwing the lug.