Update here's what i found out.

When i turn key to ignition and measure slot for starter relay i only get +12V power in upper right corner that corresponds to orange lead on relay and lower right corner is ground.

Upper and lower left side of slot has no ground or power.

This is important because when i test relay it clicks only when i connect power to yellow leads that correspond to bottom connectors on the slot (that never gets power).

Indeed i traced upper left slot on the socket and it traces to starter control wire, that makes my assumption correct.

So if starter and relay are okay why i don't get power to relay? Is there a broken fuse (where is it?) or factory immobilizer/alarm?

 

You would need to look at a schematic for your car to find out where the control wires come from that go to the relay.

 

Umm this was because i did not press clutch all the way... did not know it had this safety built in it... okay that one is solved, at least i know how to test relays now

 

Manual transmissions have a safety switch in the clutch
And automatics have a park neutral safety switch
they keep the engine from starting while in gear and thus preventing some accidents

 

BAD NEWS!!!
New relay, new IGN switch - left town for the week.l. Got 50 miles out and stopped to top up gas and get a coffee. WOULDN'T START!
Had to pull the new relay and start it with a pair of needle nose pliers! So the only thing left is the alarm system. I am trying to get it booked in to have that replaced. OBTW on the way back I realized that I hadn't tried turning the key for a while; so I tried it and IT STARTED! My wife is out now shopping - just waiting for it to stop working again.

 

Same as on the other forum, corrosion on pins in relay socket
Clean as necessary.
If it happens again then go deeper into fuse box and check underneath
Good luck