2009 Hyundai Azera 3.6L GLS ESC OFF Indicator Light Will Not Turn Off
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Joined: Mar 2022
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2009 Hyundai Azera 3.6L GLS ESC OFF Indicator Light Will Not Turn Off
Hi All,
At first this was intermittent, now the ESC Off indicator light on the instrument panel stays on constantly. Has been on for 2 years now. Car runs fine, everything else works fine. Fuses fine, replaced the ESC Off switch in the panel. Of course, that didn't work and that was an EASY fix attempt. Drive the car everywhere (including out of state) and it doesn't slow down or hesitate. No codes on my tester. Basically just tired of this light staying on. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
At first this was intermittent, now the ESC Off indicator light on the instrument panel stays on constantly. Has been on for 2 years now. Car runs fine, everything else works fine. Fuses fine, replaced the ESC Off switch in the panel. Of course, that didn't work and that was an EASY fix attempt. Drive the car everywhere (including out of state) and it doesn't slow down or hesitate. No codes on my tester. Basically just tired of this light staying on. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 33
A constant lamp could indicate a problem with the "ESC Off" switch, one of the system's two sensors (yaw rate a/o g-force), or the ECU.
Do you have a DTC reader (aka, "ODB2 Scanner)? If not, . Then, connect the tool to your Azera and click thru the reader's menu to retrieve the "P" code that has prompted the ECU to illuminate the ESC Off lamp. Next, www.dtcsearch.com a/o post it here.
If your new DTC reader doesn't return any "P" code, then I'd investigate the ESC button on you dash. Grab your digital multimeter (if you don't own a DMM, ), turn the ignition to Accessory, then climb into your drivers side foot well with a flashlight. Locate the ESC button and pull the connector off. Set the DMM to test for 20v and check each pin on the connector (should be four) to the chassis ground, and note wire color and DMM result. Set your DMM to test for continuity and check the switch pins on the button (you may have to pop it out of the dash) with it depressed (which turns off stability control and lights the lamp in the cluster) and undepressed (which engages stability control).
Check your results against the troubleshooting table in the Hyundai Azera Factory Service Manual (FSM). Don't have an FSM? Buy one.
Do you have a DTC reader (aka, "ODB2 Scanner)? If not, . Then, connect the tool to your Azera and click thru the reader's menu to retrieve the "P" code that has prompted the ECU to illuminate the ESC Off lamp. Next, www.dtcsearch.com a/o post it here.
If your new DTC reader doesn't return any "P" code, then I'd investigate the ESC button on you dash. Grab your digital multimeter (if you don't own a DMM, ), turn the ignition to Accessory, then climb into your drivers side foot well with a flashlight. Locate the ESC button and pull the connector off. Set the DMM to test for 20v and check each pin on the connector (should be four) to the chassis ground, and note wire color and DMM result. Set your DMM to test for continuity and check the switch pins on the button (you may have to pop it out of the dash) with it depressed (which turns off stability control and lights the lamp in the cluster) and undepressed (which engages stability control).
Check your results against the troubleshooting table in the Hyundai Azera Factory Service Manual (FSM). Don't have an FSM? Buy one.
Last edited by lothian; Jun 14, 2022 at 04:07 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,892
Because there are several inputs of info that the ESC system uses to make decisions, any one of them could be faulty. A faulty wheel speed sensor could be one of them. A wise thing to do would be to have the vehicle checked for codes and it could save you some trouble by directing you to the problem"AREA".
Codes only provide direction and not always a faulty part or component.
A capable scan tool would be a big help here. It would provide info as to which part might be malfunctioning and providing either false info or no info at all.
Codes only provide direction and not always a faulty part or component.
A capable scan tool would be a big help here. It would provide info as to which part might be malfunctioning and providing either false info or no info at all.
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